VTA tuning Q&A
#438
Sort of. Your piston speeds may vary, in terms of pack resulting for bumps vs. cornering compression. The manufacturers I've seen generally make it so that going to the next piston size requires 5-10 wt oil change to feel about the same.
#443
Check AE's website under "racing" then "setups." select TC3 on the left, and there are a few carpet set up sheets listed. Scan over them for a general starting place. That's what I did but unfortunately I have not made it to the track yet for testing.
#444
What type of car is working best for VTA on a carpet track, shaft drive or belt drive?
#446
With VTA i really dont think u can go wrong with any of the cars u choose to run. at our track we have AE, Xray, HPI, Team Magic, etc. and all the cars are very close in competition, with the slower speeds i belive it is what setup works with ur driving and drivers skill!
#448
First off, good choice. The chassis is bulletproof and there are plenty of parts still on the market. I run silver or blue fronts and green rears for springs. Look for an old Baker or Haynes setup and you'll be very happy with it. If/when you switch to brushless and lipo, the car becomes more stable and neutral due to the motor's rotating mass characteristics. There is no torque steer problem with the 21.5 spec brushless motor. The shaft cars tend to have more snap on acceleration and the belt cars tend to carry better corner speed. In the end it all averages out and the racing is just plain fun.
#449
Tech Master
iTrader: (89)
Anyway there's nothing wrong with a shaft car for VTA you won't notice 'torque steer' until you get into mod motors. I ran my TC3 pretty soft, silver springs in the rear, blues in the front, 40 weight oil all around, no sway bars, diffs on both ends of the car, 4 degree caster blocks. Great car.