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Old 01-03-2009, 12:20 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by Takt View Post
I'm running a TC3 VTA car ...

I'm running lipo, 21.5 - Novak GTB, Futuba digital servo (reg size) and Spektrum receiver (larger one).

I'm 200g overweight (1600 range) with the lip battery and counter weight.

I'm wanting to lose some of that weight so I can be more competitive. (And, yes, before someone says it ... I ran at a big race warm-up on Jan 1 ... ran a perfect race - the best I can do - and was beaten by 5 other guys. And in my opinion, I was losing time during acceleration, so I think it is the weight)

I was told I could run the car without the lip coutner weight plate ... tweak will be off, but should be manageable. I've run without the plate when I first started racing the TA and I would spin out turning left in some sections.

So ... my questions: Maybe I was spinning out because I had new VTA tires on, and now that I've got some races on them, I should have more traction? Thereby getting rid of weight from the counter weight?

I have a plastic chassis on it ... and like the weight the car handles. If I go to graphite, I'd lose some weight ... but also lose the flex from the plastic. Is this true?

Is there another way to get rid of weight that makes sense? I was told that I could ground out the middle of the chassis to move the battery towards the cetner ... however, I would think this would hurt my balance problem.

I'm running at the Novak Race next Thur - Sun ... and won't be racing the car until then. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

New tires are a big problem. I took mine two or three race days to even get near being broke in and good.

I have both a graphite and a plastic TC3 chassis in my shop -- I've twisted both with my hands (not very scientific, I know), but I can't feel any difference in flex between the two. Maybe some other TC3 VTA guys can comment on this too.

But 200 grams is a lot of extra weight to drag around... over 7 oz. ???? wow.
Again, maybe some of the other TC3 guys can comment here on what weight they are running with their TC3 ? (I run a Tamiya TA-05R and run right at the weight limit -- the wheel weights are no where close, but it drives great).
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Old 01-05-2009, 11:45 AM   #122
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I am looking for a starting set up for a TC4 in the VTA series. I am new to on road and bought a TC4 and am going to use a 21.5 with lipo. Common concensus at my track is to run a 4.2 drive ratio. Any help or guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Leigh
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Old 01-05-2009, 01:39 PM   #123
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I am looking for a starting set up for a TC4 in the VTA series. I am new to on road and bought a TC4 and am going to use a 21.5 with lipo. Common concensus at my track is to run a 4.2 drive ratio. Any help or guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Leigh
I don't have a setup for you but can get you started. Silver front & Green rear springs will be needed. I've been running 30# AE oil all the way around w/ 2# pistions in the front, 1#'s in the rear.
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Old 01-05-2009, 02:48 PM   #124
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I don't have a setup for you but can get you started. Silver front & Green rear springs will be needed. I've been running 30# AE oil all the way around w/ 2# pistions in the front, 1#'s in the rear.
Thanks Thats what I was looking for. How about camber and caster?
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:05 PM   #125
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Thanks Thats what I was looking for. How about camber and caster?
4 degree caster blocks is pretty standard for rubber tires, I haven't tried any other caster blocks.

I'm guessing/recalling from memory.. I'm running 1.5 camber in the front, 2ish in the rear. I don't know what holes I'm using for the camber links off the top of my head.

3 degree of rear toe in will help rear grip...that maybe the stock, don't recall.

0 front toe.

5.5mm ride height front & rear

Droop wise (I measure from ride height until the tires lift).
2mm front from ride height
3-4mm rear

Silver front swaybar, none on rear.

I would run the shortest wheel base on the rear.

Shimwise I think I'm running 1s under all four blocks..I'm still playing w/ these I don't think it's optimal but would keep them even/flat (no antisquat,kickup,etc).

Also when building try to get the left/right balanced evenly if possible.
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:16 PM   #126
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Thanks again. I now at least have a starting point. I really appreciate it.

Leigh
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:22 AM   #127
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I just set up my TA05 for this class and have hit a bit of a wall. The car starts out great traction wise but after a few laps the rear starts to get loose off power. I can't remember the coplete set up I have on the car but I know I have the tamiya yellow spring all around, med sway bars f/r. The tires do not seem like they are overheating. I checked tire temps and they were 78-80f on all four. Anybody have any ideas they can throw at me?
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:25 AM   #128
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Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
I just set up my TA05 for this class and have hit a bit of a wall. The car starts out great traction wise but after a few laps the rear starts to get loose off power. I can't remember the coplete set up I have on the car but I know I have the tamiya yellow spring all around, med sway bars f/r. The tires do not seem like they are overheating. I checked tire temps and they were 78-80f on all four. Anybody have any ideas they can throw at me?
I had the same problem with my TA05-R.

I made these changes and it was a LOT better.

1) take out droop !! I'm down to about 2 mm front and rear.

2) lengthen the rear camber link.

I'm running white front springs and blue rears -- no sway bars.
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:48 AM   #129
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Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I'll get pics of the car on the pics forum as soon as I get them downloaded. I think the trick to saving the front end on these bodies is to have the bumper as tight up against them as you can.
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Old 01-06-2009, 12:42 PM   #130
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In case anyone is running a losi, here is the setup i ran at the Halloween race....it seemed to be really good, tons of corner speed, but it liked to 2 wheel in the corners if ya toss it in too hard.

The warmest my motor ever temped was 97*.
Hello is there a set up for a HPI SPRINT 2 FLUX?? That is what I'm using for a T/A. Any help??
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Old 01-06-2009, 06:41 PM   #131
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Hello is there a set up for a HPI SPRINT 2 FLUX?? That is what I'm using for a T/A. Any help??
Unless theres a major desing change it should be similar tot my Pro 2.

Try this:

17lb. in the front
14lb. in the rear
40 Wt oil. in all shocks
Shocks leaned in one hole front and back.

long camber links in the rear, all the way up in the front (for steering).

2 deg camber front and rear. add more to front to get more steering, but be carefull to much in the front and the car will traction roll on you.

Swaybars front and back (if you have them) the ones I"m running are purple for the pro 2 (heavyest I think)

If you have a oneway put that in.

Thats similar to what I run on my Pro2 and it handles pretty well. and it just makes min weight. You'll have to tweak it a little to suit you and your track but it should get you started.
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:05 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedsterblade View Post
4 degree caster blocks is pretty standard for rubber tires, I haven't tried any other caster blocks.

I'm guessing/recalling from memory.. I'm running 1.5 camber in the front, 2ish in the rear. I don't know what holes I'm using for the camber links off the top of my head.

3 degree of rear toe in will help rear grip...that maybe the stock, don't recall.

0 front toe.

5.5mm ride height front & rear

Droop wise (I measure from ride height until the tires lift).
2mm front from ride height
3-4mm rear

Silver front swaybar, none on rear.

I would run the shortest wheel base on the rear.

Shimwise I think I'm running 1s under all four blocks..I'm still playing w/ these I don't think it's optimal but would keep them even/flat (no antisquat,kickup,etc).

Also when building try to get the left/right balanced evenly if possible.
Thanks for posting this !

Can you post where you have the shocks mounted on the towers and arms ?
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:15 AM   #133
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Originally Posted by TeamGoodwrench View Post
Thanks for posting this !

Can you post where you have the shocks mounted on the towers and arms ?
Pretty sure on the fronts..
outside hole on tower, outside on arm though I may go back to the inner arm hole for more steering since I got the rear hooking more now.

Rear; outter hole on arm. on the tower I'm in the middle holes..just not sure which one. I want to tune this more, try to grip the rear more planted.
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:38 AM   #134
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Pretty sure on the fronts..
outside hole on tower, outside on arm though I may go back to the inner arm hole for more steering since I got the rear hooking more now.

Rear; outter hole on arm. on the tower I'm in the middle holes..just not sure which one. I want to tune this more, try to grip the rear more planted.
This all great information. I am now tearing mine down for inspection/rebuild and set up. Thanks again.
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Old 01-07-2009, 09:10 PM   #135
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The latest USVTA news out of Brookfield , WI...

Rumors have it that there are over 30 entries in the Vintage Trans-Am class at this years 13th annual Novak Brushless Race held at Trackside Hobbies in Brookfield, WI. The Novak, named for the race sponsor, is the first Major race every year in the US hosted by Scotty Ernst and Trackside.

The VTA class may end up being the largest and definatly the most competitive class of the weekend. A peek at the enrty list revealed several past National Champions from several states and various forms of RC racing that have migrated to this highly competitive and entertaining class founded on the principals of close racing and bringing the "fun" factor back to RC racing accross the nation.

Qualifying begins this Friday, so it isn't too late to make this event!
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