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Old 12-24-2008, 03:43 PM   #91
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Default My take on body work.

I always fit the body clear with wheel cut outs still in place. I then set the body on the body post with the wheel and tire combo I will be using on that car. For VTA use, I fit the body straight up (no off set for high speed oval). Center the wheels front to back and left to right. This is best judged standing over the body and looking straight down. Mark your body post and wheel centers with a sharpie of a bright color being careful not to move the body. I will then add a dimple on my sharpie marks with my dremel tool in case they get damaged or wiped off. Do not go thru the body at this time! After I have painted the body, I will then cut out the wheel wells and finish the body mount holes. I also use a 2" drum sander to finish and smooth my wheel wells. Curved lexan scissors help but often leave a rough edge. When I am done with all body fitting and trimming then I remove the protective covering. When installing decals, I put the car in a panavise to hold the car at any angle I need. It is not hard to do if you take your time. Good luck.
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:16 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Body mounting tips: Who has some? I find that the HPI bodies are always just little short for the chassis that don't have too much adjustability in the wheelbase, like the TC3. The front wheels will be perfect and the back tires are hitting the rear fenders. Do you modify the lower A-arms to move the wheels forward?
I think the best you can do is center the body front to back over the wheels and open up the wheel openings a bit as needed ??
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Old 12-25-2008, 06:18 PM   #93
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Mike Haynes,

I was putting your set up in my type R and noticed that the spring rates seemed to be reversed, 17.5 frt/25 rr, Is that what was working?

Laterz,
Bob
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Old 12-25-2008, 09:49 PM   #94
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The setup sheet is correct, i ran harder rear springs, as well as less camber in the rear...it turns really good
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Old 12-27-2008, 09:59 PM   #95
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These tires aren't very forgiving. To eliminate them from troubleshooting, what basic setup do you put on your car the first time you try to run in your tires? I'd like to see posts for all types of cars here so sound off.
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Old 12-27-2008, 10:22 PM   #96
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I run soft springs and adjust w/sways....Minimal camber, rear toe and front toe...Before I did this my tire temp would be upwards 115 degree's now I come off at around 75 to 80 degrees....Also your choice of tire dope is also a factor and how you maintain the tires....For example ater I scuff in the tires on concrete I use paragon and let soak 5min wipe down and resoak then I run..after the run I immediatly use a 50/50 solution of simple green and water to clean after that before I run about the 2 min mark of the heat before mine I dope and wipe down the tires....Paragon seems to soak and degrade the tire if not maintained...Jack the gripper is alot more forgiving...Also dont go from one type of dope to another will throw everything off and make you think your setup is off....MY 2 CENTS.....Oh xray T2 007....
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:23 PM   #97
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I try to mount new tires before i will need them, and try to get at least 4-5 practice runs in on the tires. Unfortunately, I am starting to think you may have to chase the tire with setup at times. By that i mean when you have a tire that's a little too new or too old for the track conditions. Mostly too old for me lately.

Also, the last set of tires I have mounted is not breaking in very quickly. My buddy has also been having trouble with the newest tires being kinda hard. Maybe this is a batch thing???
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:54 PM   #98
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I recently ran my TA-04S for the first time since completing it from a new kit. I am running 27t with new 4600 cells. I only did practice. I have yet to run a race. Here is my set up:

Stock kit springs (gold) all 4 wheels.
Stock plastic Tamiya shocks with kit supplied Tamiya oil. Single hole piston discs. All shocks have the thinnest and the next thickest spacers in them. Ride height-not sure. Droop? Whatever the instructions showed for the shock limiters.
All suspension link and shock positions placed as shown in the instructions.
-1 deg camber on all 4 wheels.
-1 deg toe in for front wheels.
Stock rear toe blocks that came with the kit (0? maybe -1 deg?)

To make a 4 cell pack fit the stock tub chassis, I soldered up a stick style saddle pack. Imagine a stick pack missing the center 2 cells.

When I got to the track, I sauced the new tires with Paragon while my battery was peaking. Paragon was on for approx. 12 min? Wiped them off on the burn out table and started driving. She was a little slippery at first but after a couple of minutes, she stuck like glue. This is with stock gear diffs front and rear.

I started with a 5.62 FDR but this made the car feel sluggish out of the turns. So I geared down to a 5.80 (87t spur, 32t pinion 48p). That helped. After that, all I did was make laps. I never had to change the set up. She stuck great. Never spun out or traction rolled and kept great corner speed. And this is my first time driving a touring car.

My biggest gains in lap times were by changing my driving. I started out turning low 15's to mid 14 sec. laps. By the end of the night, I had turned a couple high 12's with no changes to the cars set up, just improved my driving line.
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Old 12-29-2008, 07:53 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe R. View Post
I recently ran my TA-04S for the first time since completing it from a new kit. I am running 27t with new 4600 cells. I only did practice. I have yet to run a race. Here is my set up:

Stock kit springs (gold) all 4 wheels.
Stock plastic Tamiya shocks with kit supplied Tamiya oil. Single hole piston discs. All shocks have the thinnest and the next thickest spacers in them. Ride height-not sure. Droop? Whatever the instructions showed for the shock limiters.
All suspension link and shock positions placed as shown in the instructions.
-1 deg camber on all 4 wheels.
-1 deg toe in for front wheels.
Stock rear toe blocks that came with the kit (0? maybe -1 deg?)

To make a 4 cell pack fit the stock tub chassis, I soldered up a stick style saddle pack. Imagine a stick pack missing the center 2 cells.

When I got to the track, I sauced the new tires with Paragon while my battery was peaking. Paragon was on for approx. 12 min? Wiped them off on the burn out table and started driving. She was a little slippery at first but after a couple of minutes, she stuck like glue. This is with stock gear diffs front and rear.

I started with a 5.62 FDR but this made the car feel sluggish out of the turns. So I geared down to a 5.80 (87t spur, 32t pinion 48p). That helped. After that, all I did was make laps. I never had to change the set up. She stuck great. Never spun out or traction rolled and kept great corner speed. And this is my first time driving a touring car.

My biggest gains in lap times were by changing my driving. I started out turning low 15's to mid 14 sec. laps. By the end of the night, I had turned a couple high 12's with no changes to the cars set up, just improved my driving line.
Very cool Joe, what track you driving at?
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:04 AM   #100
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Very cool Joe, what track you driving at?
The Track at Harbor Hobbies in Winthrop Harbor, IL.
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Old 12-29-2008, 09:30 AM   #101
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The Track at Harbor Hobbies in Winthrop Harbor, IL.
I picked up a set of masks from Jeff and my car turned out nice. It would be interesting to see the two Hertz mustangs on the track. I did not go into the same detail with the rear quarter windows, but the rest looks about the same. Those masks are incredible. I'm up in Madison at RCP.
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:57 AM   #102
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I picked up a set of masks from Jeff and my car turned out nice. It would be interesting to see the two Hertz mustangs on the track. I did not go into the same detail with the rear quarter windows, but the rest looks about the same. Those masks are incredible. I'm up in Madison at RCP.
Where are the pics???

It would be cool to have a pair of "H" cars on the track. Unfortunately with my work schedule, I have yet to make any local races. Driving to another track is pretty much impossible.
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Old 12-29-2008, 02:34 PM   #103
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Where are the pics???

It would be cool to have a pair of "H" cars on the track. Unfortunately with my work schedule, I have yet to make any local races. Driving to another track is pretty much impossible.
Sadly, its sitting at the track right now. I didn't get to race yesterday. I did manage to get a basic setup on it and run a couple laps to try and work the tires in on Saturday. As its not my primary car TA car, I just need to make sure its ready just in case. Can't ding the body if its not on the track!
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:00 PM   #104
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I have an odd issue. I have one rear tire that after its cleaned and allowed to dry its still tacky. It picks up carpet like a Hoover. The other tires behave normally. I can put the tire on the opposite side, and it does the same thing. Any ideas? I've cleaned it with motor spray and then again with lighter fuel.
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:22 PM   #105
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Default dont do it

i cleaned my tires with lighter fluid two runs later they were trash
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