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Old 12-01-2008, 10:06 AM   #61
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Lengthen the rear camber link, add .5 toe, and also lean the rear shock in on the tower. You could also possibly go in on the arm too.
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:24 AM   #62
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King...here is my question, can I drive your VTA this SAT @ hurricane race? You can use mine...as long as yours is faster then mine...

See you this SAT....Green Bay baby....
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:44 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
Lengthen the rear camber link, add .5 toe, and also lean the rear shock in on the tower. You could also possibly go in on the arm too.
Thx for the tips.

Right now I have the rear camber links in the middle hole on the uprights, and on the most inner hole on the gearbox mount (this is the standard LW suspension). So there's really only one more step to lengthen the camber link -- go to the outside hole on the uprights ?
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:07 PM   #64
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Robk, finally made it to the track. Moving the front shock lower mounts helped balance it back out. it's something I can drive consistently now!

Thanks for your help!
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Old 12-12-2008, 10:12 AM   #65
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Steering Speed and Expo adjustments. Please send some recommendations!

I have too much initial steering and I think my servo might be a bit fast. I'm using a Fut 3PM and Hitec HS625-MG servo. I'm trying to smooth things out now that I'm going quite a bit faster. I can make these adjustments through the radio, but never had a radio with these options before.

John
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:11 PM   #66
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Start with steering speed. It is a linear adjustment, so the servo will react slower all throughout the travel. Expo is fine, but if you get too much into the car, it feels dead off center, and then it comes on all at once. You will find your car hard to drive.
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Old 12-12-2008, 01:04 PM   #67
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Thanks Rob. I appreciate the help.
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Old 12-24-2008, 07:12 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamGoodwrench View Post
Thx for the tips.

Right now I have the rear camber links in the middle hole on the uprights, and on the most inner hole on the gearbox mount (this is the standard LW suspension). So there's really only one more step to lengthen the camber link -- go to the outside hole on the uprights ?
This man needs no more help! At least until I beat him....
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Old 12-24-2008, 07:16 AM   #69
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As Big Jim stated in the primary thread: Let's talk tires.

We aren't supposed to sand them down or grind them.

They come covered in form release and preservative.

Do you WD-40, Simple Green or Ronsonol?
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Old 12-24-2008, 07:32 AM   #70
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Default Tire Mounting

I like the 5 spoke silver satin painted rims. They remind me of the AR vintage rims. The first thing I do before the tire ever sees them is strip the silver paint from the surfaces that will take glue. The silver paint separates from the plastic way too easy. It takes about 5 or 10 minutes with a Dremel on each rim with the nylon stripping attachment, it looks like a tiny wire wheel, and clean off any loose debris. After this I clean the inside of the tires with WD-40 and let them dry. After they dry, I put the inserts in the tires and mount them on the rims. I roll them around pressing down with my hand on a hard flat surface with even pressure and make sure everything is seated in the rim. I let them sit over night. I glue them as light as possible, then go back around the rim to make sure both sides to be bonded are wet. I find moving the rubber around on the rim lets the glue flow around to any dry spot. I do all tires one side only and then let them sit for an hour, then do the other sides. I let them site overnight and check for any loose points and touch up as needed.
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Old 12-24-2008, 07:43 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamGoodwrench View Post
Thx for the tips.

Right now I have the rear camber links in the middle hole on the uprights, and on the most inner hole on the gearbox mount (this is the standard LW suspension). So there's really only one more step to lengthen the camber link -- go to the outside hole on the uprights ?
Can you post or send me your setup? I can offer up comments once I see what you are running.

I dont run my TA05R in VTA (the retired 415 is used for VTA), but I use it for 17.5 and have it working pretty good.

Jimmy
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Old 12-24-2008, 07:45 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
As Big Jim stated in the primary thread: Let's talk tires.

We aren't supposed to sand them down or grind them.

They come covered in form release and preservative.

Do you WD-40, Simple Green or Ronsonol?
Motor spray / brake cleaner.
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Old 12-24-2008, 07:49 AM   #73
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Motor spray / brake cleaner.
Do you apply a little traction compound directly back on to put something to keep the rubber from cracking? That stuff can be pretty harsh.
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Old 12-24-2008, 08:17 AM   #74
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Quote:
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Do you apply a little traction compound directly back on to put something to keep the rubber from cracking? That stuff can be pretty harsh.
I've good luck with Simple Green to clean them. When they're dry I run the car without any compound for about 10 minutes on the track (definitely not during a race) to scuff them up.
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Old 12-24-2008, 08:24 AM   #75
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Quote:
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Do you apply a little traction compound directly back on to put something to keep the rubber from cracking? That stuff can be pretty harsh.
Sorry, motor spray to clean the bead before assembly. After assembly, I clean w\ simple green and then let paragon soak in a few times to get some grip into the tire.

Tire prep for the race track, I use lighter fluid to clean the tires off using a towel to scrub off rubber build up / carpet fuzz, then sauce as needed.

For Jack (hate it myself since I get headaches from it) apply let it sit, and 10 minutes before race wipe tire completely and allow to air dry.

For Paragon, I let it soak in (longer for tracks w\ less traction), and wipe 5 minutes before my race. If the track is high bite, I usually will apply, let it sit a minute or two, and wipe it off before my race.

Hope this helps,
Jimmy
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