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Old 11-24-2008, 08:34 AM   #46
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Anyone out there running a TA-04?

I'm building one into a VTA car and am having trouble with the gearing. I am running a 27t 4-cell combo and I want to gear in the 5.7-5.4 range. I tried a 48p 75t spur and a 28t pinion, but they are too far away and are not even close to engaging. I don't want to dremel the engine mount. I compared the 75t spur diameter with the stock Tamiya 06mp 83t spur. The Tamiya spur is HUGE compared to the Kimbrough I bought. The Tamiya spur is 2" in diamter measured to the outside of the gear tooth. I tried an 81t spur Kimbrough I had lying around, but that is too small also.

Anyone know what size spur and pinion would work so the gears will engage, still have adjustment, and have the correct gear ratio? BTW, my FD is 2.13333.


Hello,
When I was running my TA04R in T/A with 27/4cell I think I was running a 120spur 64 pitch and 46 Pinion gear. When I made the switch 21.5/lipo I went with a 108 spur and 52 pinion. If you are interested I have a Epic Binary that work really good in the 04.
Dave
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:03 AM   #47
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Hello,
When I was running my TA04R in T/A with 27/4cell I think I was running a 120spur 64 pitch and 46 Pinion gear. When I made the switch 21.5/lipo I went with a 108 spur and 52 pinion. If you are interested I have a Epic Binary that work really good in the 04.
Dave
Thanks for the quick reply. After doing the conversion to 48p, your gearing would equal a 90t spur and a 34-35 pinion.

Another question... any tips for setting up my TA-04S? Right now I have it built straight out of the box with the kit supplied shock oil and gold springs. It uses the plastic bodied Tamiya shocks.
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:27 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Joe R. View Post
Anyone out there running a TA-04?

I'm building one into a VTA car and am having trouble with the gearing. I am running a 27t 4-cell combo and I want to gear in the 5.7-5.4 range. I tried a 48p 75t spur and a 28t pinion, but they are too far away and are not even close to engaging. I don't want to dremel the engine mount. I compared the 75t spur diameter with the stock Tamiya 06mp 83t spur. The Tamiya spur is HUGE compared to the Kimbrough I bought. The Tamiya spur is 2" in diamter measured to the outside of the gear tooth. I tried an 81t spur Kimbrough I had lying around, but that is too small also.

Anyone know what size spur and pinion would work so the gears will engage, still have adjustment, and have the correct gear ratio? BTW, my FD is 2.13333.
I posted this on the USVTA forum a few days ago. It is for 64p and 4.2 final drive ratio, but will work for 48p and your target gearing too:

Many USVTA racers are finding it difficult to get their gearing options near the 4.2 FDR and getting the sellected spur pinion to fit.

It is actually very simple to figure what spur pinion you need to run and what will fit in your particular chassis.

With the exsisting spur mounted in your chassis and an assortment of pinions, determine the biggest and smallest pinion that will mesh in your chassis due to motor adjustment limits.

Example, I run a Tamiya 414M. I had a 120 tooth spur in the car. The largest pinion that would mesh was a 38 tooth, and the smallest was a 31 due to motor adjustment limits.

If you add the spur tooth count with the pinion count you find the min and max tooth combination that will fit your chassis.

For the 414, it is 120 + 31 = 151 tooth min
& 120 + 38 = 158 tooth max cobination.

Simple soo far... NOW,

If I want to see what available spur will get me close to the lipo/21.5 FDR of 4.2, and knowing my internal secondary ratio of 2.1333 (thats a 32 tooth diff pulley divided by the 15 tooth center pulley or 32/15 = 2.1333)
I simply divide to target by the internal ratio...
or
4.2 / 2.1333 and get 1.968

Now I have to see what spurs are available and I see the LHS has 112,108,104,100 and etc. spurs in stock.

Now, without buying a spur to see if it will fit in the car and can simply run a few numbers......

Will a 120 get me to the 4.2 FDR on my chassis? Lets see.

Just divide the spur tooth count by the 1.968 I solved for earlier...

120 spur / 1.968 target ratio = 60.97, or a 60 pinion.

Now add 120 spur + 60 pinion and get 180 total. This will not fit the 158 max to 151 min established earlier. The spur is too big!

Lets try the 104 spur...

Divide the spur tooth count by the 1.968 I solved for earlier...

104 spur / 1.968 target ratio = 52.845, or a 52 pinion.

Now add 104 spur + 52 pinion and get 156 total. This will fit the 158 max to 151 min established earlier. This combination will work and give me some room to use a smaller pinion to adjust my FDR for different tracks as I can go down in pinion size to a 47 tooth and know I can achieve propper gear mesh.

Sorry to be long winded, but I think this helps in determining what size gears will fit before you buy a bunch of gears that won't fit your chassis.

PM me with questions if you like.


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Old 11-24-2008, 08:12 PM   #49
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Marty,
I did see that on the VTA thread. I didn't realize the 414 was so similar to my TA-04. Thanks.

It looks like I'll be going with 64p gears after talking to my LHS.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:43 PM   #50
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What is a preferred/common method of cleaning the tires after a qual/main on carpet? I have been doing a quick shot of motor spray on a clean terry cloth rag then wipe each tire, but I have heard Simple Green (not sure if 100% concentrate or 50/50 mix with water) works well too to keep the tires soft and sticky.
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Old 11-25-2008, 08:28 AM   #51
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What is a preferred/common method of cleaning the tires after a qual/main on carpet? I have been doing a quick shot of motor spray on a clean terry cloth rag then wipe each tire, but I have heard Simple Green (not sure if 100% concentrate or 50/50 mix with water) works well too to keep the tires soft and sticky.
I was taught 3 ways that work. Ronsonol lighter fuel, WD-40 and Simple Green 50%. They all work. The key is get off all the loose rubber and down to clean tread. I found the Ronsonol works best, but you don't want that stuff on your fingers at all. The naptha in it will irritate your skin. I'm going to add a box of latex gloves to my tool box as I haven't found a clean way of keeping it off my mitts. I've also heard of guys using razor blades to gently scrape the loose rubber of after softening it with any one of the cleaners mentioned earlier, but haven't tried that yet.
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:02 AM   #52
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Default T2 '007 foam chassis use in VTA?

Anyone running VTA with an Xray T2 '007 US (foam) edition? Since I upgraded my foam car to a '008, the '007 is being relegated to VTA use. Any ideas as to what setup changes I should make when converting a foam chassis to a VTA chassis?
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:23 AM   #53
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hey ? for you vta guys, I have a ft tc4. and the stock motor plate configuration is a bit#h to tighten and set your mesh, what do you guys use to fix this bad design on this old ride?
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:49 AM   #54
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hey ? for you vta guys, I have a ft tc4. and the stock motor plate configuration is a bit#h to tighten and set your mesh, what do you guys use to fix this bad design on this old ride?
I have the same issue with my TC 3. I loosen up the spring side of the motor retainer, and only loosen the other screw until I can turn the cam. I rotate the motor so the pinion and spur mesh and there is no gap and I know the pinion is seated. I rotate the motor back towards the loose side until I can hold the pinion with one finger and just barely get the spur to tick when I try to spin it from side to side. If it ticks, the motor shaft isn't bound. If there is too much motion after tightening the non sprung set screw, loosen it and try again. It still takes me 2 or 3 tries every time I swap my pinion.

I run an 84/50 at 4.21. Works great.
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Old 11-25-2008, 01:57 PM   #55
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Anyone running VTA with an Xray T2 '007 US (foam) edition? Since I upgraded my foam car to a '008, the '007 is being relegated to VTA use. Any ideas as to what setup changes I should make when converting a foam chassis to a VTA chassis?
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:54 PM   #56
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I was taught 3 ways that work. Ronsonol lighter fuel, WD-40 and Simple Green 50%. They all work. The key is get off all the loose rubber and down to clean tread. I found the Ronsonol works best, but you don't want that stuff on your fingers at all. The naptha in it will irritate your skin. I'm going to add a box of latex gloves to my tool box as I haven't found a clean way of keeping it off my mitts. I've also heard of guys using razor blades to gently scrape the loose rubber of after softening it with any one of the cleaners mentioned earlier, but haven't tried that yet.
Yeah, I've done most of that(except for the lighter fluid, don't like messing with Naptha), & what I've settled on is more like a combo, I'll clean the gunk off first with motor spray, & then wipe them down with something like Simple Green(there's also a cleaner called Orange Blast I like to use, very similar to Simple Green, has the same effect & I like the smell, really does smell like ctirus fruit). I do that for both the tires on my VTA car & on the Jaco Greens(rubber) I use on my 13.5 Rubber car, & it's worked nicely....
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Old 11-29-2008, 09:13 AM   #57
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Updates on adjustments to my TC5:
Changed the rear arm mounts from 2A to 3A (raised them) The car rotates very well, and has a manageable amount of slide in the rear end. Raising the roll centers (front at 2B) has made a huge improvement in corner speed, the car reacts quicker and doesn't lean.

I've also reduced my rear toe to 2*.

My next adjustments are probably to remove my front swaybar (black) completely, and possibly move the rear camber link to the outer "B" hub position
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Old 11-30-2008, 07:32 PM   #58
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Default TA05 setup help ?

Hey guys --

Need some setup help with my TA05-R for VTA -- I need more rear traction.

I've got the 3-hole shock pistons, 50 wt oil front with white Tamiya springs, 30 oil rear with blue Tamiya springs. Front one-way.

Stock shock mount locations per the manual.

Thanks !
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Old 12-01-2008, 09:51 AM   #59
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Toe in???
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:01 AM   #60
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Toe in???
In the rear, I have the 1A bridge and the 1D suspension mount with the 1 deg. uprights -- so this should be 2.5 deg of rear toe-in.
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