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Old 11-12-2008, 12:14 AM   #31
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Hello all need some help on getting a tt-01 setup to race TA. Any suggestions, Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-12-2008, 06:21 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by John Schoenauer View Post
I have a question about shock rebound. What handling changes would you expect to happen when changing shock rebound from say 25% rebound to 100% rebound, or going the other way?
Thanks John Schoenauer
Your shock rebound is basically firmness of the suspension. Having more rebound is going to be close to having thicker oil in the car, or a thicker spring.

Here is my setup on my tc5

front
0 degree toe
camber 2 deg
4 deg caster
silver spring
#2 piston
35 weight oil
short wheelbase
1mm of shim added to widen front end between bulk head and hinge pin mount
2mm of shim between the wheel hub and wheel
camber link inside lower
shock position 2nd from outside
integy alum steering blocks using ackerman hole towards rear of car
#3 rollcenter

rear
2 degree rear toe
green spring
1 degree of camber
0 degree hub carriers
35 weight #3 piston
arms all the way forward
camberlink inside middle
1 mm of shim on outside link, link in outside hole
2nd from outside on upper shock mount
#3 roll center

I have the new cams installed, belts in the most free position
Running itf top plate and chassis, all soft plastic

Softer is better with these cars. I noticed a big improvement going from gold front springs to blue and then from blue to silver it got even better. My next step is to try green all the way around. also camber is critical, you will see a big difference when the camber is set correctly, kinda seems like a small sweet spot for these tires.

Also the tires take about 10 runs to get good. So if the car feels like ice on new tires that is why. We have been using jack the gripper and the tires get softer and softer. We are doping half the front (inside 3 ribs) and all of the rears. lightly wipe tires after applying to kinda evenly spread the compound. Let them soak for 30min or so until the jack has about dried into the tire. Then wipe as much as you can with a terrycloth towel. It will take a lap or two to get them good.

We have been running the camaro from hpi, good durability and handles good. Also make sure to balance the car, weight is critical especially if you stay close to the weight min. I think the cars handle high speed turns better once you get into the 1530 gram area. But balance is key to having a raceable car.

This basic setup can be applied to any car, very light springs all around, slightly stiffer front, with camber and toe listed above should get you in the ball park.

Hope this helps

Mike
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Old 11-12-2008, 09:27 AM   #33
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John, next time your close to the shop, swing on in with your car/s. Im sure i can get them working good for you. The general rules to setup apply to all cars, but I'm sure we can help get you dialed long before the upcoming USVTA series stop.

Thanks

Jim
I tried to get in last night, I ended up working until 7:30 again! But, I will take you up on the offer. The Camaro body for the TC 3 turned out real nice. Even my wife like it.

John
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:47 PM   #34
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I have a question and I am pretty sure I am not the only one having this same issue I am running the Xray T2 007 EU w/21.5/lipo(orion 3800) how do you get the car to balance static or otherwise? My setup seems great under left turn conditons but loose on right turns it's like extreme tweak. I cant use any of the weight plates unless I change batt's due to the humps on the orion. If anyone has an xray or an option or idea I would appreciate.
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I've seen pic where people sand the bumps off.
If you sand off the bumps on an Orion case, you end up with holes in the case, which defeats the purpose of the hard case to some extent.

A better option for the Orion packs with bumps (3200/3400/3600/3800) is to flip the pack over so the flat side (or side with the "pocket" for the 3200/3400) is down. Using a drill that's a bit smaller than a bullet connector, drill through to the (new) top of the case to give access to each connector, then use an xacto to open up the holes so the bullet connector fits. You can wrap the drill with tape to avoid scratching up the bullet connector sockets as you drill through them.

Now if you are running a 3200 or 3400 you can fill the "pocket" with ballast and it will be down next to the chassis plate where it belongs. If you are running a 3600 or 3800 you can use a weight plate or just fill the battery slots in the chassis with ballast.
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:53 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by MarkBrown View Post
If you sand off the bumps on an Orion case, you end up with holes in the case, which defeats the purpose of the hard case to some extent.

A better option for the Orion packs with bumps (3200/3400/3600/3800) is to flip the pack over so the flat side (or side with the "pocket" for the 3200/3400) is down. Using a drill that's a bit smaller than a bullet connector, drill through to the (new) top of the case to give access to each connector, then use an xacto to open up the holes so the bullet connector fits. You can wrap the drill with tape to avoid scratching up the bullet connector sockets as you drill through them.

Now if you are running a 3200 or 3400 you can fill the "pocket" with ballast and it will be down next to the chassis plate where it belongs. If you are running a 3600 or 3800 you can use a weight plate or just fill the battery slots in the chassis with ballast.

I'll try and dig up the picture, the one I saw had the humps sanded off without any holes in the case.
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Old 11-12-2008, 01:12 PM   #36
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I'll try and dig up the picture, the one I saw had the humps sanded off without any holes in the case.
There will be holes if you sand them off. You have to be very careful but even then the plastic thats there is paper thin at best once you are done.
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Old 11-12-2008, 02:40 PM   #37
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I figured out how to balance my Xray t2 007 ....I used a 10L4 battery plate and mounted it to the chassis which allowed me to move the batt out a little which gave me almost enough ballast to balance had to use about 1.5 oz to finish also if you take the orions apart you can use Tungsten putty in the humps to add weight. Tungsten is 1.5 times heavier than lead and the putty is well like silly putty and can be molded but it doesnt harden....
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:20 PM   #38
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bigmike thanks for the reply, and setup info. Here is my theory It can act like having a firmer spring because you are adding a hydraulic spring to the steel ciol spring. I think thicker oil slows shock pistion movement down so morw rebound in the shock would act like thinner oil.
I was wondering if having more rebound might be somewhat like running a soft swaybar, as it should make the car want to return to level more quickly. Most of the setups I have seen run 50% or less rebound. My first shock build when I setup the car for the season had 100% rebound and I have since rebuilt and now have about 50% rebound I changed other parts of my setup so I am not sure what this did.
I will compare your setup with what I have in the car.
Thanks again John Schoenauer
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NUCRPTRACER View Post
I figured out how to balance my Xray t2 007 ....I used a 10L4 battery plate and mounted it to the chassis which allowed me to move the batt out a little which gave me almost enough ballast to balance had to use about 1.5 oz to finish also if you take the orions apart you can use Tungsten putty in the humps to add weight. Tungsten is 1.5 times heavier than lead and the putty is well like silly putty and can be molded but it doesnt harden....
What's with the "Nu"? haven't you been doing this for a while?
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:52 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schoenauer View Post
bigmike thanks for the reply, and setup info. Here is my theory It can act like having a firmer spring because you are adding a hydraulic spring to the steel ciol spring. I think thicker oil slows shock pistion movement down so morw rebound in the shock would act like thinner oil.
I was wondering if having more rebound might be somewhat like running a soft swaybar, as it should make the car want to return to level more quickly. Most of the setups I have seen run 50% or less rebound. My first shock build when I setup the car for the season had 100% rebound and I have since rebuilt and now have about 50% rebound I changed other parts of my setup so I am not sure what this did.
I will compare your setup with what I have in the car.
Thanks again John Schoenauer
I always run 25% rebound or about there, that keeps that part of my setups the same, I try not to have too many things to try to get the results I am looking for. but let me know if you need anything else I will help you out.
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:04 PM   #41
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What's with the "Nu"? haven't you been doing this for a while?
Someone took Crptracer smart a$$
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Old 11-22-2008, 08:59 AM   #42
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bigemike: When you list #3 for the arm mount, is that in the lower hole or upper?

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Someone took Crptracer smart a$$
Well, if I ever decide to not be a smarta$$, I'll change my name to NuBadSign
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Old 11-22-2008, 09:54 PM   #43
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I've been battling with a sluggish car in the corners, so tried something new last night on my TC5.

I raised the lower a-arms on the front, from the A2 position to the higher B2. My reasoning was with a higher roll center, the car would lean less and react quicker through the coner.

Bingo.

Managed to drop my fast laps anywhere from 2 to 5 tenths. I stayed on throttle longer, broke less for the hairpins, and could get on throttle much quicker than I had previously. The car planted itself so much faster I found myself turning to soon for a few laps.

May try raising the rear arms next week.
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Old 11-23-2008, 08:15 PM   #44
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Josh H from associated posted a setup using 3B as the hingepin hole. He told me that it's the best rubber tire car he has driven yet, so it may be worth looking into.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...tein-setup.pdf
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:03 AM   #45
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Anyone out there running a TA-04?

I'm building one into a VTA car and am having trouble with the gearing. I am running a 27t 4-cell combo and I want to gear in the 5.7-5.4 range. I tried a 48p 75t spur and a 28t pinion, but they are too far away and are not even close to engaging. I don't want to dremel the engine mount. I compared the 75t spur diameter with the stock Tamiya 06mp 83t spur. The Tamiya spur is HUGE compared to the Kimbrough I bought. The Tamiya spur is 2" in diamter measured to the outside of the gear tooth. I tried an 81t spur Kimbrough I had lying around, but that is too small also.

Anyone know what size spur and pinion would work so the gears will engage, still have adjustment, and have the correct gear ratio? BTW, my FD is 2.13333.
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