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Old 11-18-2009, 08:26 PM   #406
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Picked up a used Tamiya 415 MSXX MRE 07 over the summer for a good price.

Anyone running one in USVTA and have a starting point for carpet set up?
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:32 PM   #407
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Originally Posted by C&B RC View Post
Steps:

1) measure your shocks: rears should be the same, Fronts should be the same. Fronts & rears don't have to be the same.

2) Set your ride hieght

3) Now measure your droop. Each chassis is different but this works for any chassis. Lift one end of the car just until the tires lift off the ground. Take this measurement and subtract the ride hieght. This is the droop. With the blocks and gauge and the tires off, check the left to the right they need to match, adjust with droop screws or internal shock spacers (old school)

Common tip: while holding your car with your tires hanging, rotate your springs, the shouldn't slop up and down (excess droop-no preload on springs) or the opposite, so tight your can't rotate them

Download the hudy setup station manual, it goes through the same thing and gives you the effect of raising & lowering droop
Cool thank you. I didn't think about the springs "unloading" when there is no weight on the tires
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Old 11-19-2009, 07:15 AM   #408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C&B RC View Post
Steps:

1) measure your shocks: rears should be the same, Fronts should be the same. Fronts & rears don't have to be the same.

2) Set your ride hieght

3) Now measure your droop. Each chassis is different but this works for any chassis. Lift one end of the car just until the tires lift off the ground. Take this measurement and subtract the ride hieght. This is the droop. With the blocks and gauge and the tires off, check the left to the right they need to match, adjust with droop screws or internal shock spacers (old school)

Common tip: while holding your car with your tires hanging, rotate your springs, the shouldn't slop up and down (excess droop-no preload on springs) or the opposite, so tight your can't rotate them

Download the hudy setup station manual, it goes through the same thing and gives you the effect of raising & lowering droop
I sure don't miss putting spacers inside the shocks! I used to use rubber tubing just big enough to fit over the shaft, what a pain!
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Old 11-19-2009, 07:38 AM   #409
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what are you guys finding in general that does the best to increase rear grip?
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Old 11-22-2009, 10:36 PM   #410
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Default Grip...

Hey.. What everyone at my track has found to work best is to apply the traction compound (we use paragon ground effects) as soon as your heat is over... Put a full swap on each tire and let it sit... rotate tires every once in in a while before the next heat and then by the time your sposed to be back on the track it should be all dried up mostly and just roll slowly in the groove for a little bit and you should be good to go... it allows the tires to get a crazy nice surface...
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Old 11-23-2009, 09:04 AM   #411
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what are you guys finding in general that does the best to increase rear grip?
there are alot of things but the most simple to start is a softer rear spring. Lighter weight shock oil
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Old 11-23-2009, 09:58 AM   #412
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what are you guys finding in general that does the best to increase rear grip?
Longer rear camber links, lower the link on the bulkhead/shock tower, raise the link on the hub, more rear toe in, take steering out of the car, put less traction compound on the front tires.
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:02 AM   #413
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thanks for the info. I did pretty much those things so far so I am on the right track then.

I think I am going to play with pistons versus shock oil thing next as right now I am using about 35W front and 25W rear Losi oil. I drop 5W in the rear and that did help, but I am wondering if I go with slightly larger pistons I can keep my oil weights insomething I actually have in the box. right now its a 1.1mm 3 hole piston setup all around.

Thanks again for the info guys!
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:28 AM   #414
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I have a question about front one way vs. front diff vs. center one w/ front diff.

Last year I got back into RC specifically because of VTA, but didn't get to run as much as I wanted.

When I first started out everyone said front one way for carpet, but I just couldn't get the hang of it so I went to a front diff and did much better.

Since a front one way acts as a spool under power, I was wondering how you all think a center one way with a front diff would act?
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:21 PM   #415
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I have a question about front one way vs. front diff vs. center one w/ front diff.

Last year I got back into RC specifically because of VTA, but didn't get to run as much as I wanted.

When I first started out everyone said front one way for carpet, but I just couldn't get the hang of it so I went to a front diff and did much better.

Since a front one way acts as a spool under power, I was wondering how you all think a center one way with a front diff would act?
Im not sure of how it would act. the same I would think BUT have you seen the change in rules? No more Oneways aloud. and now that I think about it dose that rule apply to center oneways
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:26 PM   #416
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Im not sure of how it would act. the same I would think BUT have you seen the change in rules? No more Oneways aloud. and now that I think about it dose that rule apply to center oneways
Where dose it say that? The only change I see since I started was this part about ESCs and that's not even a rule

"Non-Binding Informational Suggestion: Current testing shows that speed controls set to 10 degrees timing advance, with no additional "Boost" or "Turbo" functions, or profile #1 on LRP speed controls are very close in speed. This is a suggestion for those tracks having a disparity between cars equipped with high timing ESCs and those without. *THIS IS NOT A CURRENT RULE* "
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Old 11-24-2009, 01:15 PM   #417
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Where dose it say that? The only change I see since I started was this part about ESCs and that's not even a rule

"Non-Binding Informational Suggestion: Current testing shows that speed controls set to 10 degrees timing advance, with no additional "Boost" or "Turbo" functions, or profile #1 on LRP speed controls are very close in speed. This is a suggestion for those tracks having a disparity between cars equipped with high timing ESCs and those without. *THIS IS NOT A CURRENT RULE* "
HHMMMM Well it use to be in there Basicly the rule was changed due to the lack of brakeing with a oneway diff but I would sure like to know how a center oneway performes. Woulden't that make it "open" on the front and rear diff off power
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Old 11-24-2009, 02:21 PM   #418
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When I ran 4wd electric buggy alot, with a center oneway, it would free wheel the front end so it appeared to give the vehicle more off power steering.

Was thinking of trying both combinations as I have a torque limiting diff oneway as well as a center oneway I can try, but haven't found a need as I have too much steering right now LOL.
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Old 11-24-2009, 03:36 PM   #419
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I'm with TwoTone, I never saw any rules about one ways not being allowed. Post it and I'll take mine out.

Also, the 10 deg timing suggestion, I'm assuming that does not take into account any timing on the motor itself. So there's another 12 deg timing advace, but that's available to anyone with any esc.
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:37 PM   #420
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I'm with TwoTone, I never saw any rules about one ways not being allowed. Post it and I'll take mine out.

Also, the 10 deg timing suggestion, I'm assuming that does not take into account any timing on the motor itself. So there's another 12 deg timing advace, but that's available to anyone with any esc.
I could be wrong but I don't think the "no one way" rule was ever an official USVTA rule. It is however a rule in the Hurricane All Star Series... maybe that's where people saw or heard of it.

"Trans AM
Only HPI part #4797 31mm Rear and #4793 26mm Front Vintage compound treaded tires with stock inserts are allowed.
Tires must have full visible tread on tire at first qualifier of the day.
Only Novak 21.5 motors are allowed.
All Current USVTA rules will be followed
No 1-ways are allowed…..cars must be full time 4 wheel drive all the time"
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