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Old 07-25-2009, 03:53 PM   #391
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Originally Posted by home13oy75 View Post
Thanks! I appreciate the screenshots. In the last sensored-only mode, how much timing are you running on the motor? I was also wondering what the difference is between throttle profile 3 and 5. I've only ran throttle 3 before and just curious. Are you also pretty competitive with the SPX at your local track?

Thanks in advance!
I'm running 'max' timing on the motor - basically I turned the timing ring as far as it would go Technical enough?? Honestly, I have no idea what the timing is set as by doing this since Novak doesn't mark the can..

I've actually only run either 4 or 5 throttle profile - 3 i guess you can consider 'normal' not agressive or not mild (agressive shorter throw to full throttle)...5 is 'most' aggressive throttle profile on the RS...I would have to guess that you'll get to 'top end' quicker on the agressive profile...Sorry, that's not a very good answer, but I've only ever run the more agressive profiles on all my speedo

I believe we have a couple of SPX's running at my track - and removing my 'stupid driver' errors my RS can hang with any of the SPX speed controls...I always get told I have one of, if not THE fastest, cars on the track - its just the driver that is holding the car back
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Old 07-25-2009, 07:31 PM   #392
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I'm running 'max' timing on the motor - basically I turned the timing ring as far as it would go Technical enough?? Honestly, I have no idea what the timing is set as by doing this since Novak doesn't mark the can..

I've actually only run either 4 or 5 throttle profile - 3 i guess you can consider 'normal' not agressive or not mild (agressive shorter throw to full throttle)...5 is 'most' aggressive throttle profile on the RS...I would have to guess that you'll get to 'top end' quicker on the agressive profile...Sorry, that's not a very good answer, but I've only ever run the more agressive profiles on all my speedo

I believe we have a couple of SPX's running at my track - and removing my 'stupid driver' errors my RS can hang with any of the SPX speed controls...I always get told I have one of, if not THE fastest, cars on the track - its just the driver that is holding the car back
Thanks for the informative post. I just ordered another RS for my VTA car ... can't wait to try it out.
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Old 07-26-2009, 05:29 PM   #393
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I'm running 0* on the motor and about 25 to 28 boost on the controller.

Motor comes off at about 175* with a 4.5 ratio on the hottest days running on a large parking lot track (120').

They say moving the ring on the Novaks is about 12*. Add in another 15* for the sensor position. Then get the boost to equal a total of 40 - 45 depending on track size and heat.

I'm at 0+15+28= 43
The guy above would be about 12+15+8= 35

Running a spool, higher throttle profile, and drag break will add more heat.

Everything is going to change when the turbo feature on v.200 gets released soon.
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:54 AM   #394
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I'm running 0* on the motor and about 25 to 28 boost on the controller.

Motor comes off at about 175* with a 4.5 ratio on the hottest days running on a large parking lot track (120').

They say moving the ring on the Novaks is about 12*. Add in another 15* for the sensor position. Then get the boost to equal a total of 40 - 45 depending on track size and heat.

I'm at 0+15+28= 43
The guy above would be about 12+15+8= 35

Running a spool, higher throttle profile, and drag break will add more heat.

Everything is going to change when the turbo feature on v.200 gets released soon.
I'd like to try one of these in VTA. I think the motor on 0* with the timing up on the ESC is the most common approach by the Teakin Team drivers. The more agressive profile does get you faster quicker. I just leave mine at 3 on my truck, but that's in my truck and staying put. If anyone comes up with the magic motor timing setting... Well, try not to keep it to yourself. Then again this class isn't about winning every time out.
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:06 PM   #395
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So, if I turn the timing ring on the Novak fully clockwise, is that 0 deg timing? Curse stupid Novak for not marking the can
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:11 PM   #396
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I'm fairly certain that 0* is when that notch on the ring is directly below the bottom screw. Fully turned clockwise would be -12* timing and full counter-clockwise is your 12* timing.
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:19 PM   #397
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I'm fairly certain that 0* is when that notch on the ring is directly below the bottom screw. Fully turned clockwise would be -12* timing and full counter-clockwise is your 12* timing.
I'll go with that for now, lol. Marked the endplate myself for reference. Turned the ring fully CW and marked the location of one of the notches, turned it fully CCW and marked the location again. The two marks are 5mm apart. Turned it to 2.5mm to center between the two marks and marked it again, which is hopefully 0 deg. And one of the notches does sit right under the bottom screw, as you said.
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:23 AM   #398
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I saw that someone asked back in January about a setup for a Sprint 2 and there was one response from someone running a Pro 2.
Is there any one here that is actually running a Sprint 2?

Thanks,
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:47 PM   #399
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I'm running a xxx-s on low-med bite ozite.

Two weeks ago the back end was loose and the nose dived hard in the corners. Since then I we with a stiffer front spring and increased the rear toe. I'm stickin pretty well now. My droop is 3/7 (frt/rear). measured by the distance between ride height and the tires lift. My question is would I have been able to correct my original problem simple by reducing the droop in the rear? Is it better to control weight transfer with droop or spring/oil? Is it generally better to run as soft a spring/oil as possible and control weight transfer with droop? Is it just a personal preference?
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:58 PM   #400
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With that much droop in the rear, you are allowing the front of the car to compress more.

Most people are running 2-3mm of droop front and rear especially if your weight ballance is near 50/50. It does make sense that when running 7mm droop in the rear that you would need much stiffer springs in the front to counter all that weight being allowed to transfer to the front off power.

My suggestion would be to get you car's weight 50/50 front-rear and left-right. Add as much weight as it takes - there are reports that a 1600g car is even faster because it adds a lot of stability without loosing acceleration. After you ballance the weight, start with slightly stiffer springs in front. Maybe 19lb front, 17lb rear with 2 mm droop above ride height front and rear. Some are running as low as 14lb - 12lb.

I believe your spring rate is determined by how fast your car is - meaning if you race on an outdoor track with a 120' straight, you'll need stiffer springs to counter act all that speed turning off the straight. If you race on an indoor carpet track with a 60' straight you should use softer springs. Otherwise your tires will be flexing too much as they would be doing the work that the suspension should be doing.

Most guys are also running very high roll centers front and rear with very long/parallel upper linkages. A bit of a paradox, but allows you to run very soft springs. When doing this you'll have very little camber gain when the suspension flexes, so experiment with rear camber between 0 and 1 degree.

Of course, all this stuff revolves around running very nice, soft, broken in tires.

Once you find the right spring, camber, and droop settings your tires will wear evenly without getting that nasty ring on the inside.
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:03 AM   #401
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Thanks Xevias
Car is balance. We run on Ozite carpet. Most of the guys run max camber length with hi roll in the back low roll in the front. Light springs. And I can confirm a heavy car is competitive: Our Race Director ran close to a 1600g car in last year's Nat and made the A mains.

The big difference in droop was my concern and I'll play with it as well as springs and camber. My tires are broken in and once I added rear toe I pulled them off the rim due to the traction (note to self: check glue after each race) The fast guys even squeak the tires in 180 corners.

Love the class, thanks again for the great info
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:59 PM   #402
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glad I found this thread. looks like some good info!
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:34 PM   #403
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How do you set Droop? Yes I should know this by now I been racing 2 years but I always just guess on seting it. I have the droop gauge and blocks. On the blocks it measures 1mm so were is Zero on a TC3? is Zero the number that lines up on the gauge with the blocks im trying to find the 2-3mm of droop area which I know can be affected by the ride hight so what is the proper way and order to set it?
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:13 PM   #404
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How do you set Droop? Yes I should know this by now I been racing 2 years but I always just guess on seting it. I have the droop gauge and blocks. On the blocks it measures 1mm so were is Zero on a TC3? is Zero the number that lines up on the gauge with the blocks im trying to find the 2-3mm of droop area which I know can be affected by the ride hight so what is the proper way and order to set it?
Droop is the amount that the arms "droop" or fall before the wheels come off the ground when you pick up the car when ride height is set correctly. If you have a matched droop gauge set for a TC 3, you put the car on the block part of it and with the tires off slide the gauge under the outer part of the arm and set droop one side at a time. If you're cheap, like me, eyeball it with a ruler. I set the adjustment screws so one side comes off the ground when the chassis is lifted 2mm, then adjust the other side so that both tires leave the ground at the exact same time. Its not perfect, but it works.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:21 PM   #405
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Steps:

1) measure your shocks: rears should be the same, Fronts should be the same. Fronts & rears don't have to be the same.

2) Set your ride hieght

3) Now measure your droop. Each chassis is different but this works for any chassis. Lift one end of the car just until the tires lift off the ground. Take this measurement and subtract the ride hieght. This is the droop. With the blocks and gauge and the tires off, check the left to the right they need to match, adjust with droop screws or internal shock spacers (old school)

Common tip: while holding your car with your tires hanging, rotate your springs, the shouldn't slop up and down (excess droop-no preload on springs) or the opposite, so tight your can't rotate them

Download the hudy setup station manual, it goes through the same thing and gives you the effect of raising & lowering droop
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