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Old 05-04-2009, 06:03 PM   #331
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Hello my name is Chris and I had a hacking problem it's always the "it looks like I can make it move" and if im geting it right with a spool you can't lift all the way going into a turn? like you always have to be on power for it to turn? I haven't had much time to test it and see what I have to do diffrent to drive it right
On asphalt........keep changing your setup and you'll notice the spool can be very easy to drive. A simple lift going into the apex should transfer a bunch of weight and allow a bit of braking action as well. In comparison, the one-way wouldn't allow any braking. IIRC the spool setup will transfer more weight and require heavier front springs.
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:38 PM   #332
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On asphalt........keep changing your setup and you'll notice the spool can be very easy to drive. A simple lift going into the apex should transfer a bunch of weight and allow a bit of braking action as well. In comparison, the one-way wouldn't allow any braking. IIRC the spool setup will transfer more weight and require heavier front springs.
Ive had to go to a heavy front spring before I had the spool because of bad traction roll. I also went from 1 1/2* - camber to 0.50- camber to give the fronts less surface area to work with on the corners. would I need to put the camber back to atleast 1- 1 1/2- because of the push from the Spool. Thanks all!
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:55 PM   #333
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From my viewpoint, it's hard to say. I would try a 1.5* camber set up.

My RDX has a very soft front end so I can body roll the car on the outside front tire when turning. I run 4* caster blocks and 1* - 1.5* of camber.

My buddy runs an X-ray and runs 6* caster blocks. Since the more caster, the less camber you'll need, so he is at 1*. His car has a stiffer front end and uses the the more relative camber to get through corners. I'm sure weight ballance and transfer is really the key though.

We are within .1 a second from each other a lap.

Not sure if this is true, but heard that 100% of a traction roll is due to the rear - changes to the front will have no affect. Was told to simply increase the rear camber when traction got better so the rear wheels won't dig into the track and vault the car over.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:47 PM   #334
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Generally, shortening the front link will also help to reduce traction roll, as it will increase camber quick enough to keep the car from rolling over. This comes at the expense of mid corner grip, and the car becomes more reactive. If you're traction rolling, losing a bit of front grip is usually ok though.

The cars traction roll off the rear with jack the gripper a lot since jack usually causes the cars to slide a bit, then catch. It's pretty pronounced on foam tire tc cars. Paragon usually makes the cars roll over off of the front wheels, since it is more of a "sticky" type grip.
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:21 PM   #335
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If the rears are worn out from over-use of paragon, I've also seen traction rolling. You can tell if the VTA tires have had too much Paragon because over time they will really balloon out/expand.

Unlike foam tires, there is no advantage to letting the Paragon soak for an extended amount of time on the VTA tires after they have broken in. A conservative use of Paragon on VTA tires works well and you can use a set of tires until they are slicks.
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Old 05-06-2009, 04:51 AM   #336
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my front tires are down to slicks and my rears don't even have close to the fronts you can see the tread thinning but the wear is minimal and the only goop we can use at our track is Jack the gripper I currently run the 31MM rears and 26MM up front ive seen alot of guys run 26MM all the way around I would think its just to save from extra weight no performance atvantage. or am I wrong?
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:57 AM   #337
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#1 The rules are 26mm fronts and 31mm rears. If your track allows 26mm all around, that's one thing but you're supposed to use the fronts on the front and the rears on the rear.

#2 Your car is probably pushing. Usually the fronts wear more than the rears, but if there is a huge difference the car is imbalanced.

#3 If you have slicks your fronts are probably too soft and you need to get new tires. Save the old ones for outdoor racing. Eventually, the tires get too soft for carpet as they age.
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:09 PM   #338
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Thanks for the tire tip I like the wider tires anyway even if it dosn't give a advantage the foam in my fronts are all screwed up the tires are a funny shape were it looks like the foam got all bunched up in a bunch of spots. and it was my first set of wheels and tires so I got them used the guy I bought them off glued them all wrong so they were shot to begin with, the side walls would roll under all the time and I just kept adding more superglue. going to get new rubber and rims and do it right for the new season. any more tire tips for Preping, mounting,glueing. THANK YOU ALL!
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:14 PM   #339
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What basic changes are you guys making when moving from carpet to asphault?

Raise ride height and adjust droop only? Then minor adjustments to account for changes in grip?
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Old 05-06-2009, 03:28 PM   #340
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What basic changes are you guys making when moving from carpet to asphault?

Raise ride height and adjust droop only? Then minor adjustments to account for changes in grip?
Wondering the same.. typically I race on the rug but going outdoors next race if no rain...

From what I've seen it really depends on traction levels.... If the traction is about the same, I ususally don't change anything and just see what I got & go from there. ..but maybe there are some generalities some of the other races can speak to?
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Old 05-06-2009, 04:05 PM   #341
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I didnt change anything from outside to in.....my TC3 sits at around 10mm and hooks up better than anybodies...and I didnt change anything when we went to the rug...even with Dirla telling me to drop it to around 5mm...

I dont think the TC5 will be the same..so Im running the box stock rubber tire setup...for VTA and TCR
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Old 05-09-2009, 04:13 PM   #342
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I didnt change anything from outside to in.....my TC3 sits at around 10mm and hooks up better than anybodies...and I didnt change anything when we went to the rug...even with Dirla telling me to drop it to around 5mm...

I dont think the TC5 will be the same..so Im running the box stock rubber tire setup...for VTA and TCR
Yo Darkside --

I just started VTA and run a TC3. I've run on dirt oval with a TC3 and like the car's durability and simplicity. Anyhow, could you post your asphalt setup? I just got 21.5/lipo gear and am ready to start figuring this out.

Help is appreciated. Thaks.

Jeff
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:43 AM   #343
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I'm interested to hear how people have been breaking in their VTA tires. I've had some new tires break in fine on the track and others that seemed to take a bit longer.

Has anyone tried applying traction compound to the tire and then sealing them up in a ziptop bag?
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:34 PM   #344
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I'm interested to hear how people have been breaking in their VTA tires. I've had some new tires break in fine on the track and others that seemed to take a bit longer.

Has anyone tried applying traction compound to the tire and then sealing them up in a ziptop bag?
Buggy grip and a bag can help. There was a run of tires last winter that was particularly hard. Running them in on the track was no good. I had to put them in a bag with the buggy grip to get any results at all.
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:52 PM   #345
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the biggest thing for me with any of my VTA tires was to sauce them and ziplock them and let them sit in the sun on race day...the tires I ran at the MCC last year I had soaking for around a month...lol...but after running them they where AWSOME...!!..if you have at least two sets of tires and are running outside...take the set you are running in the main and let them soak in the sun all day and then run them...you will see a major "GRIP" change

as far as my setup goes...its stock TC3...I ran blue front springs and silver rear....30wt all around....10mm all around...about 3mm droop....I ran rear shock towers all around....on the front shock tower...outside hole..on the arm..inside hole....on the rear shock tower....inside hole....on the arm...outside hole...double foam bumpers up front...lol..and I ran some washers on my front wheel hubs to make the front wheels sit out some for looks...(HPI mustang body)..I dont know if it helps performance..but I run them all the time...

hope this helps you out some..I works wonders for me...

oh yeah...diffs front and rear...
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