VTA tuning Q&A

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Old 02-22-2009, 07:58 PM
  #286  
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It really only takes 5-10 minutes to dremel out the webbing under the pinion using a dremel and a sanding stone/wheel. Really about the best option if you are running a tub chassis TC3. Your other option is to get a flat aftermarket chassis for the TC3. Some of the aftermarket chassis have different motor mounts that allow for more gearing options. Also the FT TC4 has better gearing options due to the motor mount.

You will need to find a small spur regardless. The smallest I'm aware of right now is a 72 spur 64 pitch by PRS (http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/products/26).
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:08 PM
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Speaking of TC3, this weekend in VTA I finished 4th in a field of 17 at the ROAR region 5 race with my TC3 tub chassis. I made more of an effort to work on my setup and ended up with something I could drive aggressively without oversteer. Still needed to find a few tenths, but just focusing on setup I was able to improve my lap times. If only I could improve the driver.
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Old 02-22-2009, 10:21 PM
  #288  
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Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post

With the "spec" tire and 21.5/lipo option, I now have time to work on setup. I am starting to have fun seeing how setup changes actually improve lap times. This is another part of the VTA experience that really make this a good class.
Well...I've finally joined the BLIPO ranks too as of today. I had Mike racing with us and he really helped out with my ESC. Now I can practice, practice, practice. I'm paying close attention to the recent setup discussion.

At the end of the day I did about 50 laps practice just by myself on the track.. I was able to keep the car within about .5 of a second of each lap for 20 or so laps.

I think what I should work on first is not making mechanical changes on the car but work on finding the fastest line for this layout.

At what point should I stop working on keeping a line and switch over to making a change in my setup?
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Old 02-25-2009, 01:57 PM
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If you are ever wondering if it is the car or the driver that is the problem, hand your controller to another driver that you respect and ask them for feedback on your car.

I'm finally to the point in VTA that I'm usually searching for a car that is comfortable for me to drive. I want something that I can turn consistant laps that doesn't have a lot of over/under-steer. I've gotten more immediate feedback by letting other drivers take a few laps with my cars. By watching another driver with my car, I can really tell if my car has as much steering as I thought or if it really is too loose.

This feedback can go both ways as the other driver may like something about how your car handles and adapt it to their setup. I let someone drive my car recently and they noticed how my car rolled through the corners much better. Turns out they had too much drag dialed into the speedo and it was really slowing down their car.

I really don't worry too much about someone breaking my car. A little beating and banging in VTA really won't hurt your car.
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Old 02-25-2009, 02:42 PM
  #290  
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Your car is also very easy to drive and has a somewhat neutral feel about it Indy. If I let some people drive my car it wouldn't take long to get some traction-rolls down

I think the first time I let you drive mine at Winthrop you looked at me puzzled and said "How the hell do you drive this thing?"

Letting someone else drive your vehicle also confirms your suspicions. If you feel like it is pushing off-throttle, let your friend drive it. He may agree with you, or say that you're car is just too loose on-throttle, making it seem to push, etc.

I personally love it when you let a friend drive your vehicle and they run better lap times than you do
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Old 02-28-2009, 05:06 AM
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just wondering if any body could tell me the diameter of the hpi vintage tyres?
thank you Clayton.
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Old 02-28-2009, 06:28 AM
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64mm
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:10 PM
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thanks mate, has any body tried the slick version & is there any difference in
handling?
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Clayton View Post
thanks mate, has any body tried the slick version & is there any difference in
handling?
I doubt anyone has tried the slicks as they are strictly outlawed according to the official rules.
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:15 PM
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When looking at the back side of a Novak 21.5, do you turn the timing ring clockwise, or counter-clock wise to advance the timing?
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
When looking at the back side of a Novak 21.5, do you turn the timing ring clockwise, or counter-clock wise to advance the timing?
Assuming the backside is the wire side you turn the ring counter-clockwise.
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Clayton View Post
thanks mate, has any body tried the slick version & is there any difference in
handling?
The slicks seem to have less side bite. The D compound is kinda hard, so they would probably work better when the track is warm. I tried them on a carpet track on a cold floor.

Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
When looking at the back side of a Novak 21.5, do you turn the timing ring clockwise, or counter-clock wise to advance the timing?
Turn it counter clock wise
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Old 03-15-2009, 04:24 PM
  #298  
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I just picked up a Xray T2-007 US spec. I was running a TC4 in the VTA series. So does anyone have a set up for me to start with? It has Aluminum 6 degree caster blocks on the front which is probably 2 degrees to high but thats what I have to work with right now. What about gearing. I was at 4.2 on my TC4 so with the xray will a 84/34 48 pitch fit or should I go 102/41 64 pitch?

Appreciate any help given. It was too good of a deal to pass up and I already sold my TC4, hopefully I won't regret it.
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Old 03-16-2009, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by lp3233 View Post
I just picked up a Xray T2-007 US spec. I was running a TC4 in the VTA series. So does anyone have a set up for me to start with? It has Aluminum 6 degree caster blocks on the front which is probably 2 degrees to high but thats what I have to work with right now. What about gearing. I was at 4.2 on my TC4 so with the xray will a 84/34 48 pitch fit or should I go 102/41 64 pitch?

Appreciate any help given. It was too good of a deal to pass up and I already sold my TC4, hopefully I won't regret it.
FRNT:
.5 toe out
4degree caster
forward akerman at post
outside hole on steering block
3rd hole out upper shock mnt hole
40wt oil 3hole and 2 hole really preference
1.5mm wheel hexes to equal tire width frnt and rear
lower inside camber link position
frnt top deck posts removed
white frnt springs
outside lower shock mnt at arm
1 degree of camber
1.2 sway on (EU edition)
REAR:
1degree rear uprights
shocks layed down
30 wt oil
3 hole pistons
outside hole at arm
1.3 sway on (EU edition)
1.5 to 2 degrees camber
yellow springs
rear topdeck posts removed

You can also run white springs all the way around on this setup

Give this a try....
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:21 AM
  #300  
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Thanks, I will give a try. It is basically the rubber tire setup with some slight changes? I saw this set upafterwards on the other thread afterwards. Thanks again for the help.
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