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Old 11-05-2008, 10:30 AM   #16
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robk...thanks for any help. Here's my baseline/older setup I was running outdoors on decent/med grip asphalt link below. TC4 tub chassis. Worked well for me as long as I had med./decent grip. Ran on some sealed asphalt and fresh/green layout at ThunderRc/carpert w/ linked setup below same loose results on these lower grip tracks.

*not noted on setup sheet.... I also had to add ~150grams (due to using the light/200gram orion 3200 lipos)of lead to make our 1531gram min. I balanced it left to right pretty well and stuffed most of what I could in the rear and some in the middle, a touch in the front..I'm guessing a 40/60 or 35/65 front to rear balance on the 'hand scales'. This maybe part of my problem?...too much weight in the rear for soft rear setup? Should I redo the lead more in the middle of the chassis and get closer to 50/50 front to rear balance? Also just realized I'm using the shortest rear wheelbase setting..meant to try longer but didn't have time.

Here's what I have changed/tried to the setup below and where the setup is currently at from the posted/linked setup:
Longer front camber link which took out some steering. helped some.
More droop; front 2mm above ride hight, rear 3-4mm above ride hight
Rear shock oil from 40 to 30wt.
Moved upper rear shock mounts out one hole & outter hole on arm. helped some.
Rear toe in 1* to 2*, thought I had 3* but the setup board measured 2*
1* to 2* rear camber
Tried a sliver/med swaybar, not much changed, removed it.
Dropped rear ride hight; was 5.5mm all corners, tried 5.3 & 5mm in rear. minimal difference noticed.

Thanks for any suggestions/tips..track time is limited and helpful/time saving suggestions are greatly appreciated!

http://www.nashrcracer.com/coppermin..._TC4_VTA-1.zip
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Old 11-05-2008, 03:27 PM   #17
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Speedster- Try moving the front shock out on the arm, get 3* rear toe, and go out on the rear hub camber position. If you car gets stable again, lean the front shock in on the tower. If you can, you may want to find some springs softer than the AE green (Tamiya??). I am starting to think the cars need to be very soft. Sort wheelbase--this is actually good, stcik with it.

Also, I am not familiar with the TC4 spacers for the hinge pins. How high are they off the chassis? It looks like you have a little kick up in the front, and some pro squat in the rear?? Just try running everything flat for now. Your car will do different things in different corners because of throttle variation when you put kick or squat into your car. Add it back if you need it once you get a handle on things. Also, if the rear hinge pins are higher than the front, that can cause the car to break away if you are in a low traction situation.
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Old 11-05-2008, 03:34 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed View Post
That's odd... I never saw temps over 110 on the 21.5 in testing geared down to 3.8 FDR.
You must run on a fairly open track, or you're not pushing it hard enough around the turns . Even at the Gate, my motor was always 115, and on smaller tracks, it's 130-140.
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Old 11-05-2008, 03:43 PM   #19
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Nope, and nope. In all of the pre-21.5 rules testing that was done, those temps were never seen by any of the testers. That's 6 different talented drivers in 6 different chassis at 3 different tracks.

Maybe you're pushing it TOO hard in the turns. Definitely not the fast way around in a spec car.
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Old 11-05-2008, 03:51 PM   #20
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What is weird is that my motor was up to 150* at the gate, but I had the motor sound setup attached to my car. I was thinking that did something to my motor's performance/temp., but the guy who I had first seen with the same setup on his car said he ran one on a 17.5 with no problems!??! Maybe I have a bad motor. Stealth, maybe you got a funky motor too?? Though yours is really fast
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Old 11-05-2008, 03:53 PM   #21
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Crazy. Maybe it's The Gate.
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Old 11-05-2008, 03:54 PM   #22
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In case anyone is running a losi, here is the setup i ran at the Halloween race....it seemed to be really good, tons of corner speed, but it liked to 2 wheel in the corners if ya toss it in too hard.

The warmest my motor ever temped was 97*.
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VTA tuning Q&A-jrxs-type-r-vintage.gif  
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Old 11-06-2008, 09:30 AM   #23
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Thanks Rob. Those shims/spacers are 1mm, So they are close to flat...rear pins up 1mm over fronts. I'll try your suggestions.

Is the front to rear weight balance ok..35/65ish frt to rear? I was trying to weigh down the rear to help it stick and why I was using the short WB...something I do in off-road 2wd. Thanks again!
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:42 PM   #24
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Try to get your car at 50/50, just to make sure the weight bias isn't part of the problem. Sometimes too much weight at the back can have a pendulum effect.
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:01 PM   #25
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Hello all, I was wondering if I could use a Associated rc12 1/12 roller for TA racing.Thanks for your help
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:09 PM   #26
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Hello all, I was wondering if I could use a Associated rc12 1/12 roller for TA racing.Thanks for your help
Nope. The class is for 1/10 AWD touring car chassis.
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Old 11-10-2008, 10:53 AM   #27
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TC3 VTA Setup needed.

OK, I got inspired, converted my TC3 to a VTA car too. Now I have an extra just in case.

What is a good base setup for a TC3? This car handled well as a 27T stocker. Motor, electronics and gearing will stay pretty much the same. I have golds in front and silvers on the back, 40 wt oil. Second shock hole all the way around (the last race setup I used). This car predates the "droop" adjustable control arms. I'm going to give it a run tonight just to see it go, but wouldn't mind seeing it be competitive. The 21.5 and LiPo are on order for it.
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:01 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
TC3 VTA Setup needed.

OK, I got inspired, converted my TC3 to a VTA car too. Now I have an extra just in case.

What is a good base setup for a TC3? This car handled well as a 27T stocker. Motor, electronics and gearing will stay pretty much the same. I have golds in front and silvers on the back, 40 wt oil. Second shock hole all the way around (the last race setup I used). This car predates the "droop" adjustable control arms. I'm going to give it a run tonight just to see it go, but wouldn't mind seeing it be competitive. The 21.5 and LiPo are on order for it.
I'm guessing similar to a tc4 but I really don't know, no personal experience but race w/ a few. I know they can be competitive in TA. I'd say try (softer) Silver front & green rears would be better for the harder ta tires. Try the setup you got w/ softer springs to start from and go from there.
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Old 11-11-2008, 07:08 PM   #29
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I have a question about shock rebound. What handling changes would you expect to happen when changing shock rebound from say 25% rebound to 100% rebound, or going the other way?
Thanks John Schoenauer
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:28 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
TC3 VTA Setup needed.

OK, I got inspired, converted my TC3 to a VTA car too. Now I have an extra just in case.

What is a good base setup for a TC3? This car handled well as a 27T stocker. Motor, electronics and gearing will stay pretty much the same. I have golds in front and silvers on the back, 40 wt oil. Second shock hole all the way around (the last race setup I used). This car predates the "droop" adjustable control arms. I'm going to give it a run tonight just to see it go, but wouldn't mind seeing it be competitive. The 21.5 and LiPo are on order for it.
John, next time your close to the shop, swing on in with your car/s. Im sure i can get them working good for you. The general rules to setup apply to all cars, but I'm sure we can help get you dialed long before the upcoming USVTA series stop.

Thanks

Jim
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