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Old 02-09-2009, 03:35 PM   #241
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Most guys are using around 800-1000mAh. Mike Haynes said his car uses about 600!! Very efficient!

A 2400 is more than enough.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:35 PM   #242
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I've figured out a good setup for low/medium bit ozite, but am still struggling to find a setup that I like on high/really high bite ozite. I see many drivers that make the transition from low to high bite tracks in VTA traction rolling. I'd like to hear some opinions on how to correct this.

Let's assume a few things:
- Ride height is 5mm
- Tires are broken in but not abused
- Traction compound is Paragon being applied to 100% of the tire.
- Car is sprung relatively soft (springs and oil)
- Car is not tweaked, all parts are in working order, and car is built properly.

The specific setup on the car isn't relative to my question, since I've seen this issue on cars with varying setups that have traction rolling problems.

What part of setup should a racer focus on to deal with traction rolling in rubber touring car classes and/or VTA?
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Old 02-09-2009, 06:16 PM   #243
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Thats the tricky part.
I've got the same problem and I've started messing with spring stiffness and shock angle, primarily in the front.
I cant seem to find a happy medium. Between the car pushing like a dump truck and the cartraction rolling.
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Old 02-09-2009, 06:57 PM   #244
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2* caster blocks have made my car much better for high traction racing. I used 4* all the time, but 2*is much better. Even in normal conditions, 2* is just fine.

I'm doing 1/2 to 2/3rds of the front for dope.

Increasing front dampening should help as well. Smaller hole pistons have helped my car a lot.
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:11 PM   #245
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2* caster blocks have made my car much better for high traction racing. I used 4* all the time, but 2*is much better. Even in normal conditions, 2* is just fine.

I'm doing 1/2 to 2/3rds of the front for dope.

Increasing front dampening should help as well. Smaller hole pistons have helped my car a lot.
If 2 deg caster is good, how about zero deg ??? Esp. in low to med bite carpet ?
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:23 PM   #246
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if you change from a 4 deg caster block to a 2 deg, what else changes on the car ?

ride height ?
toe?
camber ?

I just wondering what has to be readjusted ?
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:15 PM   #247
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Quote:
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Most guys are using around 800-1000mAh. Mike Haynes said his car uses about 600!! Very efficient!

A 2400 is more than enough.
awesome, thanks a lot.
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:56 PM   #248
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If 2 deg caster is good, how about zero deg ??? Esp. in low to med bite carpet ?
Why do you want to go to zero, if you have low bite? The old saying is "caster is faster"...usually having caster in the car is a good thing. The problems arise when there is too much grip. The reason I worry about going to zero is that you may start to have the car push on exit. That being said, it won't hurt you to try it.
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:58 PM   #249
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if you change from a 4 deg caster block to a 2 deg, what else changes on the car ?

ride height ?
toe?
camber ?

I just wondering what has to be readjusted ?
The bump steer will change. As you remove caster, you may need to remove a spacer at the steering knuckle to maintain your bump steer.

Also, camber can be affected, but it's camber gain as the wheels turn.
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Old 02-09-2009, 09:04 PM   #250
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I would think having less caster would make the car want to flip going into a turn, ive been running 4, plus kickup for vta.
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:09 AM   #251
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I would think that less caster more turn in....More caster more mid corner....Alot of Rubber setups you will see a guy go to 6 from 4 but Rob has a good point about it not hurting to try it...These tire's wont translate well from say a jayco blue setup to a hpi VTA tire setup.....Some say these have more grip some say less one thing for sure is there more inconsistent which makes for a odd setup.....It seems you must be able to transfer weight fast enough to keep the pressure off the tires to keep the wear and the heat down...I saw alot of traction rollin saturday and sunday at THE Track @ harbor hobbies but I never traction rolled one time and I ran a mod setup of P.Lemeiux's from the novak race with a few droop and shock oil changes and was suprised at how well it worked and although I didnt run or qualify well I believe I turned the fastest lap in the second or third round Rob could verify that....I think its probably pretty car brand specific to a certain extent.....This question posted by Indy should really help us all as long as we keep giving input and debating....I am runnin a 009 xray EU I know there are a few runnin the same car send me a PM or post and we can help eachother out and I hope to meet and see all of ya at the Nationals..
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:02 AM   #252
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Going to 2* makes the rear end want to skid, where as before the car wanted to traction roll with 4*. I like the slight drift vs. the traction roll.

If you have some suggestions Mike let us know. Your cars are always awesome.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:02 AM   #253
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Going to 2* makes the rear end want to skid, where as before the car wanted to traction roll with 4*. I like the slight drift vs. the traction roll.

If you have some suggestions Mike let us know. Your cars are always awesome.

It's interesting because we've got a TC3 and a TC4 at our track running zero deg. front caster with zero front kickup -- fast cars. Our carpet is new, so we don't have a ton of bite.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:21 AM   #254
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Originally Posted by HENRYJ View Post
Hey Doug, I didn't have to do any mods at all. Actually a 43 pinion should give you a 4.4 final, we had to change cause we were goin to fast.

Thanks for the info
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:23 PM   #255
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So which chassis design is the more efficient one(shaft or belt)?
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