Thanks Xevias
Car is balance. We run on Ozite carpet. Most of the guys run max camber length with hi roll in the back low roll in the front. Light springs. And I can confirm a heavy car is competitive: Our Race Director ran close to a 1600g car in last year's Nat and made the A mains.

The big difference in droop was my concern and I'll play with it as well as springs and camber. My tires are broken in and once I added rear toe I pulled them off the rim due to the traction (note to self: check glue after each race) The fast guys even squeak the tires in 180 corners.

Love the class, thanks again for the great info

glad I found this thread. looks like some good info!

How do you set Droop? Yes I should know this by now I been racing 2 years but I always just guess on seting it. I have the droop gauge and blocks. On the blocks it measures 1mm so were is Zero on a TC3? is Zero the number that lines up on the gauge with the blocks im trying to find the 2-3mm of droop area which I know can be affected by the ride hight so what is the proper way and order to set it?

Droop is the amount that the arms "droop" or fall before the wheels come off the ground when you pick up the car when ride height is set correctly. If you have a matched droop gauge set for a TC 3, you put the car on the block part of it and with the tires off slide the gauge under the outer part of the arm and set droop one side at a time. If you're cheap, like me, eyeball it with a ruler. I set the adjustment screws so one side comes off the ground when the chassis is lifted 2mm, then adjust the other side so that both tires leave the ground at the exact same time. Its not perfect, but it works.

Steps:

1) measure your shocks: rears should be the same, Fronts should be the same. Fronts & rears don't have to be the same.

2) Set your ride hieght

3) Now measure your droop. Each chassis is different but this works for any chassis. Lift one end of the car just until the tires lift off the ground. Take this measurement and subtract the ride hieght. This is the droop. With the blocks and gauge and the tires off, check the left to the right they need to match, adjust with droop screws or internal shock spacers (old school)

Common tip: while holding your car with your tires hanging, rotate your springs, the shouldn't slop up and down (excess droop-no preload on springs) or the opposite, so tight your can't rotate them

Download the hudy setup station manual, it goes through the same thing and gives you the effect of raising & lowering droop

Picked up a used Tamiya 415 MSXX MRE 07 over the summer for a good price.

Anyone running one in USVTA and have a starting point for carpet set up?

Cool thank you. I didn't think about the springs "unloading" when there is no weight on the tires

I sure don't miss putting spacers inside the shocks! I used to use rubber tubing just big enough to fit over the shaft, what a pain!

what are you guys finding in general that does the best to increase rear grip?

Grip...
 

Hey.. What everyone at my track has found to work best is to apply the traction compound (we use paragon ground effects) as soon as your heat is over... Put a full swap on each tire and let it sit... rotate tires every once in in a while before the next heat and then by the time your sposed to be back on the track it should be all dried up mostly and just roll slowly in the groove for a little bit and you should be good to go... it allows the tires to get a crazy nice surface...

there are alot of things but the most simple to start is a softer rear spring. Lighter weight shock oil

Longer rear camber links, lower the link on the bulkhead/shock tower, raise the link on the hub, more rear toe in, take steering out of the car, put less traction compound on the front tires.

thanks for the info. I did pretty much those things so far so I am on the right track then.

I think I am going to play with pistons versus shock oil thing next as right now I am using about 35W front and 25W rear Losi oil. I drop 5W in the rear and that did help, but I am wondering if I go with slightly larger pistons I can keep my oil weights insomething I actually have in the box. right now its a 1.1mm 3 hole piston setup all around.

Thanks again for the info guys!

I have a question about front one way vs. front diff vs. center one w/ front diff.

Last year I got back into RC specifically because of VTA, but didn't get to run as much as I wanted.

When I first started out everyone said front one way for carpet, but I just couldn't get the hang of it so I went to a front diff and did much better.

Since a front one way acts as a spool under power, I was wondering how you all think a center one way with a front diff would act?

Im not sure of how it would act. the same I would think:confused: BUT have you seen the change in rules? No more Oneways aloud. and now that I think about it dose that rule apply to center oneways:weird:

Where dose it say that? The only change I see since I started was this part about ESCs and that's not even a rule

"Non-Binding Informational Suggestion: Current testing shows that speed controls set to 10 degrees timing advance, with no additional "Boost" or "Turbo" functions, or profile #1 on LRP speed controls are very close in speed. This is a suggestion for those tracks having a disparity between cars equipped with high timing ESCs and those without. *THIS IS NOT A CURRENT RULE* "

HHMMMM Well it use to be in there:weird: Basicly the rule was changed due to the lack of brakeing with a oneway diff but I would sure like to know how a center oneway performes. Woulden't that make it "open" on the front and rear diff off power:confused:

When I ran 4wd electric buggy alot, with a center oneway, it would free wheel the front end so it appeared to give the vehicle more off power steering.

Was thinking of trying both combinations as I have a torque limiting diff oneway as well as a center oneway I can try, but haven't found a need as I have too much steering right now LOL.

I'm with TwoTone, I never saw any rules about one ways not being allowed. Post it and I'll take mine out.

Also, the 10 deg timing suggestion, I'm assuming that does not take into account any timing on the motor itself. So there's another 12 deg timing advace, but that's available to anyone with any esc.

I could be wrong but I don't think the "no one way" rule was ever an official USVTA rule. It is however a rule in the Hurricane All Star Series... maybe that's where people saw or heard of it.

"Trans AM
Only HPI part #4797 31mm Rear and #4793 26mm Front Vintage compound treaded tires with stock inserts are allowed.
Tires must have full visible tread on tire at first qualifier of the day.
Only Novak 21.5 motors are allowed.
All Current USVTA rules will be followed
No 1-ways are allowed…..cars must be full time 4 wheel drive all the time"

Anyone new or just struggling some with handling or grip..... the first and IMO the most important thing to do in this class is keep your tires CLEAN. I've seen crappy setups work ok with good tires but a good setup with glazed tires just doesn't cut it. So first and foremost clean your tires!

One way rule is only for the Hurricane All Star series. Otherwise, enjoy your oneway:D

Good thing you brought that up. I know its been covered in the past but is still a good subject to bring up.:nod: your right Tires are probly #1 when it comes to setups expecialy if the tires are new then forget handleing:lol: so to start tire prep and storage are huge. I like to clean my tires with WD-40 and for adding traction compound keep it consistant! if you cover the rears 100% and only 50% of the front then keep the routine the same as for storage at the end of a race clean and goop you tires and store in a air tight bag (Zpiloc) as for breaking in new tires the only way I know is to just run them but you can always Pre break in the tires. for me I clean them as soon as I take them out of the package then goop the rears and front 100% and store in a bag, after that each day pull them out,goop,and reseal lengh of time will depend on your pacience and your own methods. I try for 1 week then mount them. (a whole nother sublect:lol:) this is the method I try to use. anyone else have tips they wish to share:confused:

I clean my tires after every run with lighter fluid. Douse the rag and rub off the gunk, and keep going until the rag comes off the tire clean. The last pair of tires I broke in just by doping, then storing in a ziplock bag for a week or two. When I got tothe track they were ready to go.

Anyone ever try progressive springs on there sedan in this class?

vta final drive question
 

What final drive is everyone running? I have a 21.5 setup in a tc3. I know it might take some dremeling to get in the low 4 range. any experience with this?

When I ran a TC3 I ran a Robinson 81t (64p) spur gear and 40 thru 46 pinions, and had good luck between 4.4 and 5.0 No mods needed and never temped over 140 degrees even when running outdoor on hot days.

nice I'm using 48p now and just under 5.0 how much of a diff does the 64p make?

I like it basically because it's quieter, lol. I never had any issues running 64p in the tc3 even on asphalt. I would just tape the access hole in the bottom of the chassis to keep debris from entering there.

I've used the HPI ones on a pro 2 I was using, they worked but they aren't worth getting.

what did you notice was different about the vehicle when using a progressive spring versus standard one?

Under most conditions the car reacted like it had normal springs on, but every so often (on a hairpin after a long straight). The car would start off fine and about midway through the car would get squirrley (it would go from being neutral to wanting to dive in hard). Nothing drastic but it was slightly disconcerting when you weren'texpecting it.

Just use TIRE TWEAK traction compound.

Thanks for the tips wiscnitro I had the Fastest car last night at the track. Had everyone lapped at least once. Unfortunately I traction rolled in the last 30sec of the main and my car sat for about 10sec on its roof:flaming: still got second.
This car has never traction rolled before it was strange:confused:

:lol::lol: It happens. I don't know what your track looks like but it could of been a few things. drove it into the turn too hard or did a good grove come up and you just hooked up too much. Now you know what it takes. Good Luck:nod:

screw loose
 

I lost a screw in the bottom of the hub carrier I guess that could have done it. Pass me the loc tite please:lol:

anyone now if its possible to compare different pistons based on hole count and diameter to know what oil weight will give similar dampening characteristcs between the two?

Smaller/fewer holes + light oil = larger/more holes + heavy oil

Sort of. Your piston speeds may vary, in terms of pack resulting for bumps vs. cornering compression. The manufacturers I've seen generally make it so that going to the next piston size requires 5-10 wt oil change to feel about the same.

VTA set-up
 

I picked up a TC3 chassis and am going to build a VTA Cuda.Looking for set up basics for chassis,shocks,springs,etc.Going to run 27t brushed for now as I have a lot of them.Any help greatly appreciated
Butch
PS going to run track in Rochester,NY Carpet

Go try asking at the VTA thread, but watch what you ask over there they are bashing people for opinions .
They don't seem to want to embrace the new technology of faster speedo`s . So if you ever get a newer speedo their gearing philosophy is different.