XRAY T2’009
#481
A little of both. From what I've experienced the back is unpredictable loose causing a oversteer issue. The only problem is with the 2 different width wheels its going to be a little bit of give and take to get it close, then tune from there. Bad part is that it will work for VTA but it will pretty much suck for TC rubber, setup wise.
#482
The actual values have come from the faster guys I race with sometimes. But having less droop seems to make the car too 'on edge' for me. I race mainly on low grip asphalt.
Skiddins
#483
That's intersting to hear your thoughts on a VTA set-up. I've struggled with my 008 in VTA and finally have it pretty close by doing something similar.
Using Paul L's Trackside set-up with the exception of adding 2mm more of front track width to help account for the offset VTA wheel deal. 1mm more on the arm shims and a 1mm wheel shim. There are no shims in the rear other than for toe on his set-up already.
I've had the best luck setting it up with the regular touring car wheels to get the ride height and then switching to the VTA wheels and letting the ride height go up to whatever. Tried both and think I would need to move pivot points to get the lower ride height to work with the tall VTA tires
I've ran the spool and the one-way. It carries noticably more speed through the infield with the one-way and for me is easier to drive. Could this be because of the limited 21.5 motor? I tried to stick it out with the spool and may go back to it sometime, but it just really binds up in the tight infield. Maybe the upgrade shafts will help?
I came into this deal with no touring car experience what so ever. This thread and the 008 thread have with out a doubt helped me ten fold over any practice or experimentation I could have done in this amount of time.
Thanks guys...
Using Paul L's Trackside set-up with the exception of adding 2mm more of front track width to help account for the offset VTA wheel deal. 1mm more on the arm shims and a 1mm wheel shim. There are no shims in the rear other than for toe on his set-up already.
I've had the best luck setting it up with the regular touring car wheels to get the ride height and then switching to the VTA wheels and letting the ride height go up to whatever. Tried both and think I would need to move pivot points to get the lower ride height to work with the tall VTA tires
I've ran the spool and the one-way. It carries noticably more speed through the infield with the one-way and for me is easier to drive. Could this be because of the limited 21.5 motor? I tried to stick it out with the spool and may go back to it sometime, but it just really binds up in the tight infield. Maybe the upgrade shafts will help?
I came into this deal with no touring car experience what so ever. This thread and the 008 thread have with out a doubt helped me ten fold over any practice or experimentation I could have done in this amount of time.
Thanks guys...
#484
You could try the 50mm drive shafts up front.
#485
I'm looking to pick up a 009, who has them instock at the best price?
#486
Tech Adept
Very loose rear end / oversteer
I'm using a brand new 009 set up as per manual, i race on a dusty concrete track. Im using cs22 and tried sorex 20, the motor is a Novak 13.5. The car is very fast compared to my old FK05 (might be some of the problem) Whats happening is when i exit a tight corner the back end just lets go under acceleration it goes into the corner fine. I had a similar problem on the FK05 and loosening the rear diff solved that. Anyone got a tips to try as a starting point. Its so bad i was only getting 14 laps when i can get 20 with the old car but the 009 is a lot faster on the straight.
#487
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I'm using a brand new 009 set up as per manual, i race on a dusty concrete track. Im using cs22 and tried sorex 20, the motor is a Novak 13.5. The car is very fast compared to my old FK05 (might be some of the problem) Whats happening is when i exit a tight corner the back end just lets go under acceleration it goes into the corner fine. I had a similar problem on the FK05 and loosening the rear diff solved that. Anyone got a tips to try as a starting point. Its so bad i was only getting 14 laps when i can get 20 with the old car but the 009 is a lot faster on the straight.
- remove or reduce the rear sway bar
- lay down the rear shocks or reduce spring rate
- increase front droop (since it's on power)
Hope this helps
#489
#490
Tech Elite
iTrader: (120)
US or UK version ?
best price i have found so far is
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=16138
but shipping is not cheap
if your looking for the US / foam spec below have them in stock
http://www.nexusracing.com/ and
http://www.ampdraw.com/ and http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
best price i have found so far is
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=16138
but shipping is not cheap
if your looking for the US / foam spec below have them in stock
http://www.nexusracing.com/ and
http://www.ampdraw.com/ and http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
#491
I'm using a brand new 009 set up as per manual, i race on a dusty concrete track. Im using cs22 and tried sorex 20, the motor is a Novak 13.5. The car is very fast compared to my old FK05 (might be some of the problem) Whats happening is when i exit a tight corner the back end just lets go under acceleration it goes into the corner fine. I had a similar problem on the FK05 and loosening the rear diff solved that. Anyone got a tips to try as a starting point. Its so bad i was only getting 14 laps when i can get 20 with the old car but the 009 is a lot faster on the straight.
Skiddins
#492
#493
Tech Adept
#495
One last question on spool V. oneway fixed......Wouldnt the oneway be so much faster steerin wise and still give you the rip out of the corner?