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Old 08-05-2009, 04:58 AM   #1456
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to check that it is at 90* put your car on a set up station, and set the EPA on the controller to the same value left to right (mine is 63% each side). then turn the dual rate all the way up to 100%. now turn the wheel full lock and using the toe gauge, measure how far the wheel has turned. Repeat this for the other side. If they turn the same angle, then the horn is at 90* to the link. If they are not the same, then change the length of the link this is rather accurate for those who are really picky about things (like me)

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Old 08-05-2009, 05:21 AM   #1457
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Originally Posted by chensleyrc1 View Post
Didn't see that, but I did see Aluminum complete shocks for $29.60 a pair.
Plastic shock bodies are $5.60 a pair.
Of course they're 5 bucks a pair. But the shipping is almost 16 bucks!!.. I know Xray parts are pricey and I'm fine with that. But I hate getting ripped off for shipping.
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:31 AM   #1458
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Hi Guys
Have you got any idea how the car handles with two piece rear top deck with no link in between ?
Because nowadays many of the new cars comes with two piece rear top deck with no link in between like Tamiya 416 etc.
Thanx in advance
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:39 AM   #1459
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Hi Guys
Have you got any idea how the car handles with two piece rear top deck with no link in between ?
Because nowadays many of the new cars comes with two piece rear top deck with no link in between like Tamiya 416 etc.
Thanx in advance
From a UK forum;

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Does the cut rear deck help much?
if it does why at snetterton as its a fast flowing track?
As i havent seen many do that to a Xray rear deck
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I just like the way the rear of the car feels with that on. I know some people run the rear deck with a screw taken out (middle one), this feels similar
I have been thinking about trying it by cutting one of the thinner asphalt rear decks.

A friend tried it during the winter on carpet and didn't like it but perhaps that was because there was too much grip for that modification to be of use.

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Old 08-05-2009, 05:53 AM   #1460
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Originally Posted by Cribbin View Post
to check that it is at 90* put your car on a set up station, and set the EPA on the controller to the same value left to right (mine is 63% each side). then turn the dual rate all the way up to 100%. now turn the wheel full lock and using the toe gauge, measure how far the wheel has turned. Repeat this for the other side. If they turn the same angle, then the horn is at 90* to the link. If they are not the same, then change the length of the link this is rather accurate for those who are really picky about things (like me)

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but he's also going to be one of our top aussie racers very soon..
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:54 AM   #1461
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I cut the centre out my rear deck and havent changed it since Car has more flex in the rear. This is on low traction ashphalt, i have also used it on med-high traction with good results

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Old 08-05-2009, 07:02 AM   #1462
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Of course they're 5 bucks a pair. But the shipping is almost 16 bucks!!.. I know Xray parts are pricey and I'm fine with that. But I hate getting ripped off for shipping.
Yeah I agree RCMarket is a little pricey on the shipping, I don't know what other shops are in Asia or ships to Asia. But look at it this way at least with an X-Ray you won't be ordering parts that often! The only parts I would carry is: Knuckles, caster blocks, 1 front arm, 1 rear arm, and rear uprights. Those are the only things I have ever broken. I now have Alum Knuckles and Alum rear uprights and haven't broken anything now in about a year. In fact I recommend the Aluminum rear uprights as a first upgrade to the car, they keep the bearings more in line for a smoother more consistant rear driveline.
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Old 08-05-2009, 07:24 AM   #1463
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Try Rc Mushroom, there parts are around the same price as RcMarket, but i have found there postage to be a bit cheaper

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Old 08-05-2009, 07:50 AM   #1464
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Im pretty sure the xray shop goes throught rc america and there out. Aleast i think thats the deal
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:00 AM   #1465
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Originally Posted by chensleyrc1 View Post
Yeah I agree RCMarket is a little pricey on the shipping, I don't know what other shops are in Asia or ships to Asia. But look at it this way at least with an X-Ray you won't be ordering parts that often! The only parts I would carry is: Knuckles, caster blocks, 1 front arm, 1 rear arm, and rear uprights. Those are the only things I have ever broken. I now have Alum Knuckles and Alum rear uprights and haven't broken anything now in about a year. In fact I recommend the Aluminum rear uprights as a first upgrade to the car, they keep the bearings more in line for a smoother more consistant rear driveline.
I dont think its the rc buisness per say in regards to shipping. Its that way in any industry. UPS, Fedex, USPS and all the others make a ton of money. Remember when they added the fuel surcharge to compensate for gas being 4.00 per gallon. Well gas has come back down and the surcharges are still being charged.
As my son would say, "their thief-ing us dad" or "we got thief-ed." It is so funny to see him use that word which is really not a word at all. Lol
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:18 AM   #1466
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sweet i just bought one!
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:16 AM   #1467
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Sorted. Found an online store in Canada. Less than 10 bucks shipped.
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:15 PM   #1468
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drew ellis what rollout would be a good start for 17.5 foam, 13.5 foam and 10.5.(especially 17.5) im running a tekin and trinity duo, timing in speedo is all the way up and motor is at the lowest timing setting. i can also switch and put in a lrp spx

if anyone can help i would appreciate it very much.
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:38 PM   #1469
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Whats a good servo for electric? I will be buying a xray 009 soon
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:23 PM   #1470
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Whats a good servo for electric? I will be buying a xray 009 soon
Futaba 9550 or 9551, what ever they call the LPF one now.
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