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Old 06-01-2009, 05:02 PM   #1201
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Originally Posted by kn7671 View Post
Nope, just Xray. Don't let this discourage you, the cars are tough, and are tougher than most others out there.

I highly suggest the optional Hard Front Bumper, Part # 301223 for about $12.00, and the Optional Wide Impact Absorbing Front Bumper, Part # 301203 for about $7.00. These two parts will make the front end practically indestructible by protecting the front arms, cvd's, c-hubs, and steering blocks from impact.

When you get good enough to avoid impacts for the majority of the race, you can slowly revert back to the smaller and lighter parts for a little more speed and that slight competitive edge.

Thanks for the tips.. i will check them out. But the shaft didn't fail from any kind of impact... the set screw that holds the pin in place, in the coupling came out, and in the insuing friction, the coupling is now fused with the end of the drive shaft.... so its huxxored, along with the steering block. The set screw was snugged down, with loctite, but it came out anyway, after just two race weekends....
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Old 06-02-2009, 02:05 AM   #1202
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Hi Cpt America.

Same thing happened to me on my initial run with my 009.

Just want to ask if you put locktite on the set screw or the did you put it on the drive shaft coupling?

Before, i used to place the locktite just on the set screw. After a couple of runs wherein it slowly gets out of assembly, i decided to take it apart and put the locktite inside the coupling itself then drive in the set screw. I let the locktite "dry" for a day then run the car. Until now, i have had no problems with it at all.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-02-2009, 05:25 AM   #1203
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i grind a flat on all the pins first, then i found if you use the Hudy graphite grease you really need to:

1. make sure you completely get it all cleaned out of the threads and they are completely dry, especially inside the coupler.
2. let your loctite dry for at least an hour before you put the graphite grease on. i use a small 0.050" hex driver to dab the grease on the coupler/pin area inside and outside and then spin it in your fingers your will see the graphite grease makes it's way to all the required areas.

i use either the blue or purple loctite, both work well for me.
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Old 06-02-2009, 05:26 AM   #1204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alecladanga View Post
Hi Cpt America.

Same thing happened to me on my initial run with my 009.

Just want to ask if you put locktite on the set screw or the did you put it on the drive shaft coupling?

Before, i used to place the locktite just on the set screw. After a couple of runs wherein it slowly gets out of assembly, i decided to take it apart and put the locktite inside the coupling itself then drive in the set screw. I let the locktite "dry" for a day then run the car. Until now, i have had no problems with it at all.

Hope this helps.
I also had these problems on the first run.. I took the pins out, ground a flat in to the section the grub screw sits and used locktite to re-install the grub screw..... It all seems to be fixed now.

Jordan
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Old 06-02-2009, 05:29 AM   #1205
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Originally Posted by gameover View Post
i grind a flat on all the pins first, then i found if you use the Hudy graphite grease you really need to:

1. make sure you completely get it all cleaned out of the threads and they are completely dry, especially inside the coupler.
2. let your loctite dry for at least an hour before you put the graphite grease on. i use a small 0.050" hex driver to dab the grease on the coupler/pin area inside and outside and then spin it in your fingers your will see the graphite grease makes it's way to all the required areas.

i use either the blue or purple loctite, both work well for me.
That's pretty funny
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:06 AM   #1206
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My 008 is shelved at the moment with the same drive shaft problem. I sheared the pin in half on the front right and fused the drive shaft to the steering knuckle. Im waiting for some ECS drives to come into the LHS as ill be buggered replacing the Std ones. I thought i lost one of the knuckle bushings as well and those suckers are like $14 a packet. Thankfully it was found on the pit floor at clean up.
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Old 06-02-2009, 07:44 AM   #1207
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That's pretty funny
not as funny as my driving in the mains on the weekend
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:15 AM   #1208
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I wanted to let the 009 drivers know that I have posted my 2009 Reedy setup online. It's for spec Jaco Blue tires and 13.5, on a high speed, high bite layout, but it's still very close to my standard asphalt setup.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...9&setup=t2_008

We also have a new carpet track in the SoCal area, OCRC. I have posted my initial 13.5 carpet rubber setup, too,

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...9&setup=t2_008
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:53 AM   #1209
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Are the spare part prices from other manufacturer's this bloated compared to the price of the car, or is it only Xray?
Well, yes. Tamiya driveshafts come in pairs it's true, but you still have to pay about 80AUD to get them (for a TRF car say about 500AUD that's less than 20%; if you have a TA05 you basically pay the price of another car to add uni driveshafts), Avid likewise, well pretty much everything. I think it's the pricing policy plus overheads that bring the price up.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:53 AM   #1210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Filipow View Post
I wanted to let the 009 drivers know that I have posted my 2009 Reedy setup online. It's for spec Jaco Blue tires and 13.5, on a high speed, high bite layout, but it's still very close to my standard asphalt setup.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...9&setup=t2_008

We also have a new carpet track in the SoCal area, OCRC. I have posted my initial 13.5 carpet rubber setup, too,

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...9&setup=t2_008
Thanks J,

I ordered car today and cant wait to try your setups.
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:58 AM   #1211
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Question for you guys... is it possible to buy 0 degree aluminum rear uprights for my 009? A good idea over buying multiple spare plastic ones? I can find aluminum 1 degree... but not 0 degree.
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:13 PM   #1212
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You really do not need alloy for rubber tire racing. The one you broke may have been stressed before hand. The light tap that you made broke it further. Do you place a set screw into the unused hole? This will help with breakage at the top of the upright.

But if this is something you rare breaking a bunch then you need to look further into your driving on the track. These do not break to much. You can also try the hard compound if you feel you need a stronger upright.

I hope this info helps.
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:19 PM   #1213
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You really do not need alloy for rubber tire racing. The one you broke may have been stressed before hand. The light tap that you made broke it further. Do you place a set screw into the unused hole? This will help with breakage at the top of the upright.

But if this is something you rare breaking a bunch then you need to look further into your driving on the track. These do not break to much. You can also try the hard compound if you feel you need a stronger upright.

I hope this info helps.
Are the Hard ones more prone to breaking or less prone than the medium? Some people tell me the mediums are stronger (less brittle), and some people say the extra hard ones are stronger.... so which is it?
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:54 PM   #1214
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Are the Hard ones more prone to breaking or less prone than the medium? Some people tell me the mediums are stronger (less brittle), and some people say the extra hard ones are stronger.... so which is it?
I run the EU edition and spent most of the winter season crashing into barriers indoors, including a couple of accidents that smashed a spool apart. With exception of that spool and the drive outputs for it I haven't broken anything. I've not even had to replace the driveshaft 'blades' yet!

Where on it did the rear upright fail?

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Old 06-02-2009, 01:02 PM   #1215
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 06-02-2009 at 02:15 PM.
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