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Old 05-21-2009, 04:41 PM   #1141
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The asphalt top deck is different than the EU top deck. Here it is,

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...Deck%20-%20Set

So I have the "EU" version, which comes optimised for Rubber tire/asphault racing... but it doesn't come with the asphault top deck? Something doesn't seem right here...
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Old 05-21-2009, 04:46 PM   #1142
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So I have the "EU" version, which comes optimised for Rubber tire/asphault racing... but it doesn't come with the asphault top deck? Something doesn't seem right here...
The asphalt top deck is for very low traction tracks. Just another tuning option.
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Old 05-21-2009, 04:56 PM   #1143
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The asphalt top deck is for very low traction tracks. Just another tuning option.
I see.
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Old 05-21-2009, 05:41 PM   #1144
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So I have the "EU" version, which comes optimised for Rubber tire/asphault racing... but it doesn't come with the asphault top deck? Something doesn't seem right here...
I belive it was also released some time after the original cars debut.

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Old 05-21-2009, 05:55 PM   #1145
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I have another question for you guys... do you recommend using locktite on your chassis-to- bulkhead screws?
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:09 PM   #1146
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I have another question for you guys... do you recommend using locktite on your chassis-to- bulkhead screws?
Nah, just use loctite on the universals...not needed on other areas of the car and could cause stripped screws.
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:15 PM   #1147
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Nah, just use loctite on the universals...not needed on other areas of the car and could cause stripped screws.
Yeah, I loctited the set screws in my universal joints.... but how the heck could locktite cause one to strip a screw?
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:57 PM   #1148
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@ Nexus Racing,

I have the US foam spec and multi-diff...I wanna get the ECS drive shafts...what length do I get (50 or 52mm)? I think i read in the xray forums that an EU rubber spec w/multi-diff will need the US 50mm ECS as 52mm ECS will be too long coupled w/multi-diff in an EU...true or false?
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Old 05-21-2009, 10:08 PM   #1149
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Yeah, I loctited the set screws in my universal joints.... but how the heck could locktite cause one to strip a screw?
If you thread lock the chassis screws then when you try and take it out it could strip. If you don't have a good wrench. Then you would have to call Billy Mays and get the easy extractor or whatever it is called.
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Old 05-21-2009, 10:53 PM   #1150
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Originally Posted by jt415gz View Post
@ Nexus Racing,

I have the US foam spec and multi-diff...I wanna get the ECS drive shafts...what length do I get (50 or 52mm)? I think i read in the xray forums that an EU rubber spec w/multi-diff will need the US 50mm ECS as 52mm ECS will be too long coupled w/multi-diff in an EU...true or false?
Could be true, always ran 50s on my foam car.
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Old 05-21-2009, 11:18 PM   #1151
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If you thread lock the chassis screws then when you try and take it out it could strip. If you don't have a good wrench. Then you would have to call Billy Mays and get the easy extractor or whatever it is called.
oh, you're talking stripping the head, not the threads... I see Thanks for the tip.
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Old 05-21-2009, 11:21 PM   #1152
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I use blue threadlock that way it'll keep the screws from backing out, but somewhat easy to wrench out. red will be too agressive and causing the head to strip when trying to remove.
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Old 05-22-2009, 05:18 AM   #1153
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I use blue threadlock that way it'll keep the screws from backing out, but somewhat easy to wrench out. red will be too agressive and causing the head to strip when trying to remove.
If you can find it, look for Loctite 222. It's the purple compound that can be tough to find. It's specifically made for precise applications such as aluminum screws and screws under 4mm. It's perfect for RC, lighter duty then the blue and works great.
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:53 AM   #1154
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I dunno.. the blu loctite I use is PRETTY light duty. It doesn't seem to really take any extra pressure to back out a screw... if just a tad. It just keeps it from vibrating loose.
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Old 05-22-2009, 09:09 AM   #1155
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In my experience the only time I found screws stuck in aluminium was when using a lot of buggy spray to clean the car of the annoying fluff it collects off the carpet. I think that promotes condensation on the chilled metal and if water gets in between aluminium and steel it is a very good chance corrosion will set in (as you will know from engines with alloy heads). Blue loctite is pretty weak but its main role for me is to keep the two metals somewhat separated so electrolysis is not initiated. Use sparingly though.
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