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Old 05-19-2009, 09:15 PM   #1126
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Originally Posted by l337 View Post
i've got a 008, but the 009 thread seams more active.

My problem is, i strip the thread of the rear upright (Part number: 303352) causing the screw to fall out, i have striped 3 in about 2 months. What am i doing wrong and what can i do to stop it? Im thinking about getting the alu ones, but would pefer a cheaper option.

Thanks in advance
I have done what adamage mentioned. But another option is to switch to the hard foam-spec uprights #303354.
We all run the hard foam-spec steering blocks (#302253) here, because the threads are stronger. And some run the hard rear uprights as well.
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:48 PM   #1127
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So why run a lipo tray at all? why run the xray weights at all? Why not just be unbalanced?
Because a lot of us have minimum weight rules, so the goal is to get a lot of weight on the chassis and get it as low as possible. The tray is the ultimate way of doing that.
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:18 PM   #1128
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I have done what adamage mentioned. But another option is to switch to the hard foam-spec uprights #303354.
We all run the hard foam-spec steering blocks (#302253) here, because the threads are stronger. And some run the hard rear uprights as well.
ahh good thinking i will give them ago. Conviently your website has them in stock.

one of thing to make sure on is. Will the new xray lipo weigh balancing will work with a SMC 40c 5200 without any problems? (i will also be using a xray strap)

and what other brand of spur fits without having to drill any holes in the spur? (i am running 48p, looking something like a 66T so i can run a 17.5)

Last edited by l337; 05-19-2009 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:53 PM   #1129
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Originally Posted by l337 View Post
i've got a 008, but the 009 thread seams more active.

My problem is, i strip the thread of the rear upright (Part number: 303352) causing the screw to fall out, i have striped 3 in about 2 months. What am i doing wrong and what can i do to stop it? Im thinking about getting the alu ones, but would pefer a cheaper option.

Thanks in advance

You can also put a set screw in the hole that you don't use. Just make sure that it is flush so if you have a shim there it doesn't interupt the height. That will help strengthen the hub more on impact also.

Jeff
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:58 PM   #1130
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Originally Posted by l337 View Post
i've got a 008, but the 009 thread seams more active.

My problem is, i strip the thread of the rear upright (Part number: 303352) causing the screw to fall out, i have striped 3 in about 2 months. What am i doing wrong and what can i do to stop it? Im thinking about getting the alu ones, but would pefer a cheaper option.

Thanks in advance

You can do the longer screw deal like adamge said, but you should also run a longer setscrew in the unoccupied hole of the upright, this will give the block a little more strength as well.
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:04 PM   #1131
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You can do the longer screw deal like adamge said, but you should also run a longer setscrew in the unoccupied hole of the upright, this will give the block a little more strength as well.
i was also thinking about doing this, but running like a M3 grub screw so there is no head in the way. Might try this and or the hard ones
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:06 PM   #1132
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So why run a lipo tray at all? why run the xray weights at all? Why not just be unbalanced?
If you run without any weight, then it will be unbalanced enough that it negatively affects the handling. A base plate or some ballast will mitigate any negative handling effects and get you to the point where you are light and balanced enough where handling is OK.

Too light = a tweaked car
Too heavy = a sluggish car

Also, a 3200 or 4000 battery is super light compared to a 5000. These batteries definitely need a decent amount of ballast.

The XRAY lipo weight set does an OK job of helping to balance the car without adding lots of weight -- because it moves the battery outward significantly.
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:20 PM   #1133
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That is exactly what I did, right? are you saying that even though my car is now exactly 50/50 side to side, that I might be over in total weight? So then would it be better to be slightly heavy but be perfectly balanced, or slightly lighter but not as balanced? I don't have a gram scale to weight my car, so i dont know what it weighs in total.
Hey Captain,

Bartell's has a nice little grey scale that works well. I believe it is under $20 ? Basically 1500 grams is what you will want to run at Fantasy World. Although the rules are conflicting at FW both stating we are using Roar rules ( which stipulate 1500 grams ) and FW stating there is no minimum. I run 1500 grams and feel its the right thing to do. I won't get into the pro's and con's of running under weight but I will say I prefer to have a car turn left and right perfectly the same which means balancing the car as best you can. I've seen your posts and your detailed approach, it'll serve you well to keep at it. It'll be a pleasure to meet you. See you on top of the bus soon.

Jake

Last edited by Magnet Top; 05-19-2009 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:01 AM   #1134
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Originally Posted by Nexus Racing View Post
If you run without any weight, then it will be unbalanced enough that it negatively affects the handling. A base plate or some ballast will mitigate any negative handling effects and get you to the point where you are light and balanced enough where handling is OK.

Too light = a tweaked car
Too heavy = a sluggish car

Also, a 3200 or 4000 battery is super light compared to a 5000. These batteries definitely need a decent amount of ballast.

The XRAY lipo weight set does an OK job of helping to balance the car without adding lots of weight -- because it moves the battery outward significantly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by adamge View Post
Because a lot of us have minimum weight rules, so the goal is to get a lot of weight on the chassis and get it as low as possible. The tray is the ultimate way of doing that.
Hey guys, thanks for all the help... i sincearly appreciate it. When it comes to this type of stuff, I am the kind of guy that likes to maseter it on my own head. I never feel right if im "winigng it" in the slightest. I REALLY apprecate it. I think I have a better sense of how the balancing/weighing/tweeking/running light/running heavy things all come together. I owe all you guys a beer

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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
Hey Captain,

Bartell's has a nice little grey scale that works well. I believe it is under $20 ? Basically 1500 grams is what you will want to run at Fantasy World. Although the rules are conflicting at FW both stating we are using Roar rules ( which stipulate 1500 grams ) and FW stating there is no minimum. I run 1500 grams and feel its the right thing to do. I won't get into the pro's and con's of running under weight but I will say I prefer to have a car turn left and right perfectly the same which means balancing the car as best you can. I've seen your posts and your detailed approach, it'll serve you well to keep at it. It'll be a pleasure to meet you. See you on top of the bus soon.

Jake

Thanks to you Jake... and since I am now up and running (finally got my lipos), I will be there Sunday! Look for the guy with his GF... wandering around looking completely lost (oh yeah.. and crashing into the boards alot )
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Old 05-20-2009, 01:54 PM   #1135
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hey guys, i just purchased the xray T2009 and was wondering what gearing to run at speedworld or any large asphalt track. I'm running the rcgt 17.5 class along with 13.5 and was wondering if there is a common spur gear I can use for both classes and what pinions to use for the classes.

I was also wondering how much weight to run in the car since i'm using lipo batteries. Thanks
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Old 05-21-2009, 10:12 AM   #1136
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I have another question for you 009 gurus.. and that is about the chassis flex system that Xray has engineered into the car.

I made a slight boo-boo when I first built my EU car. I noticed that some of the bulkhead screws were missing from the bottom of the chassis, when i opened my box. Not yet being aware that certain screws were left out intentionally... I quickly seated the missing counter sunks... and went about my business buildign the rest of the car.

So now that my car is all set up, and now being aware that there is supposed to be soft, medium, and firm chassis flexes... I don't know which screws to take out! The issue is, the setup book that comes with the 009, is all pictures of the 007, and the chassis share none of the same screws, so it does me no good.

Can anybody tell me exactly which screws to take out of the chassis to go to medium? (or better yet.. a picture ) I assume I want medium for a medium traction, fast, outdoor asphault track, running 17.5

Much apprecaited as usuall, fellas!

Cpt.

EDIT: I found the PDF file for the 009 specific car, on the Xray forums @ http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?t=2872 in case anybody esle was confused too So the question is, medium or soft?
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 05-21-2009 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:17 PM   #1137
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Im not a expert but i think for asphalt you will run the softest setting.

Sorry for the bad picture. But in this pictures the holes that are highlighted in pink are the screws you are not going to be using. And it will give you the softest setting which is for asphalt.
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:54 PM   #1138
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Make sure you have the asphalt top deck as well, it makes a big difference.

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Old 05-21-2009, 02:04 PM   #1139
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Make sure you have the asphalt top deck as well, it makes a big difference.

Skiddins
Well... I have the top deck that came with the EU car. That's the asphault top deck, right?
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:17 PM   #1140
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Well... I have the top deck that came with the EU car. That's the asphault top deck, right?
The asphalt top deck is different than the EU top deck. Here it is,

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...Deck%20-%20Set

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