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Old 05-06-2009, 04:03 PM   #1006
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any feedback on running the motor forward setup? thanks in advance
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Old 05-06-2009, 05:01 PM   #1007
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hey, after you guys get yours let me know how the car balances on the pins.

thanks
It doesn't.

I use balance buttons, but the extra 60g in the triangular bits is too close to the centre line to balance it all properly.

The black 'L' shaped bits are actually alu so they weigh about 7g together!

The advantage is that the two centre parts can both fit in two positions each, so weight can be put forward or backward in the chassis as desired.

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Old 05-06-2009, 05:58 PM   #1008
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Downstops:

Any experienced asphault runners have a recommendation on where to set my front and rear downstops at for a medium traction asphault track? Right now I have them set at 5mm front and rear...

Thanks

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Old 05-06-2009, 06:02 PM   #1009
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I have my car set at 5mm front and 3mm rear, our track varies low-medium traction.
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:44 PM   #1010
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My question, do you still need the lipo plates under the topdeck to run the XRay weights with a tall lipo like the TP5000 40C? Or can I take out the plates? Not sure if I want to go the XRay lipo weight set, as my car is pretty awesomely balanced as is.
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:46 PM   #1011
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Originally Posted by quinnfrazier View Post
any feedback on running the motor forward setup? thanks in advance
Read back several pages. There is some input there.
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:47 PM   #1012
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Downstops:

Any experienced asphault runners have a recommendation on where to set my front and rear downstops at for a medium traction asphault track? Right now I have them set at 5mm front and rear...

Thanks

Cpt.
I always run mine at 6mm front and 5mm rear when running rubber tire.
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:55 PM   #1013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
My question, do you still need the lipo plates under the topdeck to run the XRay weights with a tall lipo like the TP5000 40C? Or can I take out the plates? Not sure if I want to go the XRay lipo weight set, as my car is pretty awesomely balanced as is.
Im pretty sure the Xray weights move the batter out from underneith the top deck... Not a lot unlike the gold lipo tray I am using. I have the Xray weights on the way, and will be able to compare the two.

so 6mm-F 5mm-R ? That sounds a little more like it... wouldn't 3mm-R be a but too much roll in the rear?
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:01 PM   #1014
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It might make the rear over-rotate in the corner off-power. I pretty much use 6F/5R everywhere I go with rubber tire. Asphalt or carpet. If I do any changes to droop, it would only really be about 1mm +/-. But that's about it. I look to other areas for setup changes. Like shock angle or a spring change. Maybe a camber link change.
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:30 PM   #1015
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It might make the rear over-rotate in the corner off-power. I pretty much use 6F/5R everywhere I go with rubber tire. Asphalt or carpet. If I do any changes to droop, it would only really be about 1mm +/-. But that's about it. I look to other areas for setup changes. Like shock angle or a spring change. Maybe a camber link change.
Not droop... downstops. They aren't the same things.
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:47 PM   #1016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
My question, do you still need the lipo plates under the topdeck to run the XRay weights with a tall lipo like the TP5000 40C? Or can I take out the plates? Not sure if I want to go the XRay lipo weight set, as my car is pretty awesomely balanced as is.
I have just tried the XRay weights in my 008 and the Thunder Power 5000 fits without any risers etc under the top deck...just.

There is about 0.5mm between the top deck and the lipo when lipo is right up against the inner weights.
If the Lipo packs didn't have a rounded edge they wouldn't fit!
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:49 PM   #1017
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Not droop... downstops. They aren't the same things.
I thought they were

What are downstops then?
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:51 PM   #1018
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I thought they were

What are downstops then?
They are related, but measued indipendantly. Downstops measures the MM difference between the chassis, and the lowest part of the lower control arm. Droop, is how far the chassis rises before the wheels lift off the ground. Ride height affects droop, but not your downstops.

For example, lets say you set your downstops to 5mm all around, but you run a REALLY high ride height. You might only have 1 mm of droop (1mm before the tires lift). In that case, you could have downstops set to 5mm, but 1mm of droop.
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:58 PM   #1019
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
They are related, but measued indipendantly. Downstops measures the MM difference between the chassis, and the lowest part of the lower control arm. Droop, is how far the chassis rises before the wheels lift off the ground. Ride height affects droop, but not your downstops.

For example, lets say you set your downstops to 5mm all around, but you run a REALLY high ride height. You might only have 1 mm of droop (1mm before the tires lift). In that case, you could have downstops set to 5mm, but 1mm of droop.
I see your point, but you only see one side of it. I use a Tamiya "Droop gauge" (AE, Yokomo, MM, many many companies make "droop" gauges too) and measure droop as you measure your downstops. They are one and the same. But there are many, many, many different ways to measure them, as well as different terms and how to use them.

So with that said... to translate my term droop to your term downstop.... I use 6F/5R downstop.
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:54 PM   #1020
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Droop 4 life!
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