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Old 04-25-2009, 08:36 PM   #871
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Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375 View Post
Think I must have been lucky. Belts have about 3-4mm deflection when pressed with a allen driver. (frt belt if set to loosest setting touches the top deck when depressed gently with a allen driver).

After my first run last night with the fwd motor conversion all belts have stretched even more and they needed to be tightened up (mod/lipo/asphalt).

Hi Leonard,

How did you find the differences of the conversion on track?
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Old 04-26-2009, 02:58 AM   #872
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Hi Leonard,

How did you find the differences of the conversion on track?
Hi Bradd,

Some of my experiences from my first outing:

standard motor position with std pulleys
  • car was very easy to drive and held decent corner speed
  • lacked some steering through chicanes and slow speed corners

foward motor position with optional pulleys
  • car became even easier to drive (my consistency was between 0.6 - 0.3 all race meet)
  • car held more corner speed through sweepers and fast sections
  • through chicanes it had heaps of steering

I made no changes to setup (other than fwd motor kit). Ran same tires and same saucing technique.

Leonard.
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Old 04-26-2009, 03:04 AM   #873
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Hi Leonard good feedback, i was also hoping that the extra space between the rear bulkheads allows a bit more chassis flex in the rear, making the rear end a bit more stable.

The new roll centre mounts, allowing the longer links,should make the car better on our predominantly shitty tracks too.
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Old 04-26-2009, 03:10 AM   #874
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
Hi Leonard good feedback, i was also hoping that the extra space between the rear bulkheads allows a bit more chassis flex in the rear, making the rear end a bit more stable.

The new roll centre mounts, allowing the longer links,should make the car better on our predominantly shitty tracks too.
I should have added.....YES, it gave me more rr end stabilty as my car was very planted in the rr end. It did not steer from the rr end like I thought it would.

And the new roll centre mounts will make it good on our low grip parking lot type tracks.
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Old 04-26-2009, 07:56 AM   #875
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Speaking of the new roll center holders...

By reading the description they mention using them in either the front or the rear. So does that mean we shouldn't use them on front and the rear at the same time? If so, why not?
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Old 04-26-2009, 08:52 AM   #876
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Wish there was a way to use the conversion and keep it at 1.7
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Old 04-26-2009, 01:03 PM   #877
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I am going to be getting a 009 soon.I want to build it with all the hop ups from the beginning.I am assuming the screws that come with the kit are steel.Does anyone make a titanium screw kit for the car?Xray says the 38t swap makes the car more stable and improves throttle response why would you want to keep the 1.7 ratio?I am only going to be running 17.5 and 13.5 stock for awhile what is the best esc for this and why?I was considering the orion vortex race spec esc so I could run a lower turn motor in the future at bigger tracks is it programable enough to get maximum performance from 17.5?I was also considering the orion 3800 carbon lipos how much runtime can I get on a charge with 17.5 at the collosium vs a 5000mah?How long does a set of rubbers last there?I am completely new to electric so help is much appreciated.
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:24 AM   #878
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Default suggestion for lipo battery base weight

What is the best lipo base weight ( "lipo plate" ) for the 009 ? Specifically, I have a thunder power 40c 5000 mAh battery ( 24mm tall ) that weighs roughly 300 grams. I would like to maintain as close to perfect side to side balance but ultimately be able to make the ROAR 1500 gram minimum. Any suggestions ?.

( p.s. I have a small benchtop mill so I can do some small modifications fairly easily. )
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:13 AM   #879
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
What is the best lipo base weight ( "lipo plate" ) for the 009 ? Specifically, I have a thunder power 40c 5000 mAh battery ( 24mm tall ) that weighs roughly 300 grams. I would like to maintain as close to perfect side to side balance but ultimately be able to make the ROAR 1500 gram minimum. Any suggestions ?.

( p.s. I have a small benchtop mill so I can do some small modifications fairly easily. )
I use the thinner hyperdrive plate I think it is about 5-5.5oz with the TP 40c 5000 battery I add a single 7g weight on the battery side and balance nearly perfect and weight with foam is 3g over
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:25 AM   #880
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Originally Posted by sm1nts2escape View Post
I am going to be getting a 009 soon.I want to build it with all the hop ups from the beginning.I am assuming the screws that come with the kit are steel.Does anyone make a titanium screw kit for the car?Xray says the 38t swap makes the car more stable and improves throttle response why would you want to keep the 1.7 ratio?I am only going to be running 17.5 and 13.5 stock for awhile what is the best esc for this and why?I was considering the orion vortex race spec esc so I could run a lower turn motor in the future at bigger tracks is it programable enough to get maximum performance from 17.5?I was also considering the orion 3800 carbon lipos how much runtime can I get on a charge with 17.5 at the collosium vs a 5000mah?How long does a set of rubbers last there?I am completely new to electric so help is much appreciated.
I can try to answer some of your questions...

Xray says the 38t swap makes the car more stable and improves throttle response why would you want to keep the 1.7 ratio? One reason someone would want to keep the 1.7 is it make gearing easier. BUT I don't see a problem getting the gearing for 17.5 using the 1.9. I have the forward motor conversion set ordered..so I'll see this weekend.

I was considering the orion vortex race spec esc so I could run a lower turn motor in the future at bigger tracks is it programable enough to get maximum performance from 17.5? I don't quite understand the whole question, but I do like the Orion motors...

I am only going to be running 17.5 and 13.5 stock for awhile what is the best esc for this and why? I personally like the Tekin ESC because of it's programmability. I do hear great things about the LRP also but I didn't have any luck with mine.

I was also considering the orion 3800 carbon lipos how much runtime can I get on a charge with 17.5 at the collosium vs a 5000mah? You should get about 12-15 minutes of safe driving with a 17.5 ...depends on your gearing and driving. You'll probably overheat a 17.5 long before you come close to running out a 5000mah pack with a 17.5.

How long does a set of rubbers last there? This really depends on the tire brand, compound, surface you are running on, motor and driving.
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:05 PM   #881
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I run 17.5 with the motor conversion with no problems. I run a 102 spur with a 45 pinion. With the 1.9 internal, that puts me at around 4.31 final. I can not go too much lower than this because the motor is almost all the way forward. I would have to go down on the spur, to say.... a 96, if I want to be comfortable gearing in the 3's. I run on lowbite asphalt, and so far I like the conversion kit.

I would go with a Tekin esc. The software is upgradable by a laptop/computer, and it's smaller than the rest leaving you plenty of room. The LRP and others are much larger. This is especially important if you plan on running the motor forward position, as this creates less room for electronics. I posted a pic of my electronic setup a couple pages back. However, if you don't mind a mess of wires and/or putting your receiver ontop of your servo, you can go for the SPX. It's pretty nice as well.

Batteries, ROAR races are 6minutes. Some clubs are still doing 5. The SMC 3200's have been lasting pretty good for the locals in 17.5. I run the TP5000 40C. I dunno about runtime, I tend to only run for 6-7 minutes so I don't fry my motors. Of course, if you run VTA with 21.5.... my friends SMC3200 lasted on a big outdoor asphalt track with no problems for the 8 minute main. If you run 13.5, you may loose some punch towards the end of a race.

Rubber tires, some tires only last a race weekend. Some will last several weeks or months. All track and tire pending. My premounted Sorex 36s have only been lasting about/almost 3 race weekends on a lowbite asphalt track. Expect better wear/last longer on highbite.
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Old 04-27-2009, 05:51 PM   #882
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Drew, thanks for the ROAR nats foam setup.
( http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...5&setup=t2_008 )
I used it this weekend at Fastcats and it was great from the start, allowing me to focus on driving instead of managing the car.
I was trying to get more steering (esp. low speed steering) out of it in hopes of improving lap times. I went to white rear springs, 1.4mm front bar, and 2mm rear hub shim. These changes seemed to help, especially with maintaining steering in the long medium speed corner. They also made the car lift occasionally, though not quite roll. It never spun out.

I should also mention that I didn't have the parts to totally duplicate the setup, so I had to used 600/400 oils and plastic hubs/knuckles.

Traction seemed pretty high.

Any thoughts? I guess I'm wondering if I could have gotten more steering without traction rolling. The 1.4mm front bar seemed to be a very minor change, which surprised me.

The setup was really nice to drive. It didn't get tail happy when I lifted, so I could make mistakes and the car didn't punish me.

-Adam
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Old 04-27-2009, 10:39 PM   #883
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Friday, April 24, 2009
Xray T2 Alu Quick Roll-Center holder

Categories - Accessories, On Road, Products, Xray - trackback

Xray T2 Alu Quick Roll-Center holder

New for the Xray T2 chassis from Xray are these 4.9mm alu quick roll-center holders which allow you to make the upper linkage longer in either the front or rear suspension of all T2-based cars. Using the 4.9mm roll-center holders in the front makes the car turn easier and more precisely, while using them in the rear increases steering and cornering speed. Supplied as a pair marked L1 and L2.

Xray T2 Alu Quick Roll-Center holder

Source: Xray [teamxray.com]
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Old 04-28-2009, 09:56 AM   #884
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Adam,
Cool I'm glad you liked it. Was your ackerman the same as the setup sheet because thats a big deal. I have tried it everywhere and that seems to keep the car the most flat...Try the 450 in the rear you should be able to take the rear sway bar off then..The other big thing is the rear camber link that setup will work with other links so play with that and find which one you like..The other link I like is short on the hub and short on the tower same shim..How much front tire were you saucing and what tire compound did you use...Let me know...Thanks Drew
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:37 PM   #885
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Default What parts are needed?

Hey I need to know what parts I need to convert m 008 to the higher 009 upper deck? Steering post, center chassis brace and upper deck spacers? I want to use a 5000 lipo. Will it fit in my 008 with a raised upper deck?
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