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Old 04-16-2009, 09:07 AM   #751
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I think that if you're going to try to keep your lipo fitting underneath your top deck you're going to have to compromise a little bit with how heavy the actual tray is.

Some of the tray's vary their weights by offering different thicknesses for different thickness chassis... but putting a "3.0 mm" tray on a 2.5 mm chassis will leave part of the tray hanging out the bottom of the chassis...

Other trays will build up weight by adding height on the top of the chassis... limiting the space between the tray itself and the upper deck of the car.

I use tungsten weight to help add ballast to my batteries in addition to the fitted lipo tray and the solution seems to work fairly well... it requires more preparation and cost beforehand to procure the weight and affix it to the battery...
Could you elaborate a bit more on this? what is a tungsten weight? And how are you mount them to the batteries themselves? Pics?
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Old 04-16-2009, 02:42 PM   #752
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Could you elaborate a bit more on this? what is a tungsten weight?

What is Tungsten?

The word "tungsten" literally means "a substance of high density", and is derived from the Swedish language, "tung", meaning "heavy," and "sten", meaning "stone." The name is appropriate as Tungsten is a metal with one of the highest densities. In fact, tungsten is 1.7 times heavier than lead. Only gold, platinum, and a few other rare and expensive metals have a similar density.

http://www.pinewoodpro.com/pinewood-...en-weights.htm


http://www.maximum-velocity.com/speed_supplies.htm
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Old 04-16-2009, 02:56 PM   #753
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Exactly what Jason said: Tungsten is dense metal commonly used as ballast.

The tungsten I have comes in small plates and I have servo taped them strategically to the lipo pack and also used battery strapping tape to add a second level of security to keeping them where I want them.

I will try to take some pictures later of my packs to give you an idea of what I have been doing.
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Old 04-16-2009, 03:05 PM   #754
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Exactly what Jason said: Tungsten is dense metal commonly used as ballast.

The tungsten I have comes in small plates and I have servo taped them strategically to the lipo pack and also used battery strapping tape to add a second level of security to keeping them where I want them.

I will try to take some pictures later of my packs to give you an idea of what I have been doing.
Yep, copy and pasted right from http://www.maximum-velocity.com/tungstenplates.htm So i wonder if it would work to crack open the plastic case of a lipo, and add tungsten plates to the inside? That would keep a nice clean look...
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Old 04-16-2009, 04:22 PM   #755
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Yep, copy and pasted right from http://www.maximum-velocity.com/tungstenplates.htm So i wonder if it would work to crack open the plastic case of a lipo, and add tungsten plates to the inside? That would keep a nice clean look...
It would also make your pack illegal for most serious events where opening most factory seals on said packs is prohibited. Not to mention the ballast in close proximity to the then unprotected soft cells could present a reliability and safety issue.
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:33 PM   #756
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Default Xray t2 009 EU advise

Right guys I have just bought one of these and Im building it now. I have plenty of questions I will be putting on here. Firstly any build tips would be handy. It comes with a 84t 48 pitch spur what should I buy to run 13.5. Do I need off set spurs and what are they for ?? Also in the manual it says to oil the bearings, do they not come with any oil in ?? seems strange. I will post more as I think of them lol. Thanks for any advise you guys can give.
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:42 PM   #757
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Right guys I have just bought one of these and Im building it now. I have plenty of questions I will be putting on here. Firstly any build tips would be handy. It comes with a 84t 48 pitch spur what should I buy to run 13.5. Do I need off set spurs and what are they for ?? Also in the manual it says to oil the bearings, do they not come with any oil in ?? seems strange. I will post more as I think of them lol. Thanks for any advise you guys can give.
I made the switch to 64p gears right away. i run 38p and 106s. It puts me at a 4.74 and im not over heating the motor. Its also going to depend on the motor you have though. I never oiled the bearing either.
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:54 PM   #758
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Polish all of the pivot balls. Put a 3mm screw through one, chuck it up in a Dremel, use a thin strip of 400 grit sandpaper. After you think it is smooth, use a cloth and some polishing compound to get it mirror smooth. It makes the action much smoother and consistent. Chuck the hinge pins in a Dremel and hit them with a cloth and polishing compound.

I soaked the bearings overnight in a jar of Mobil 1 5w30. I figured it couldn't hurt.

Sand the edges of all of the CF, and glue them. Also glue the countersinks in the CF. It helps the screw heads resist tweak. File the battery slots and the tape slots.

It is attention to detail that makes the build a quality one.
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:56 AM   #759
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Tamiya will fit the xray but will look kinda out of place with all of the orange
Hey guys, are you just using the ballstuds from the Tamiya shocks to mount these, or is there some other way ?

The pivot balls from the xray don't seem to fit the shock ends of the tamiya shocks.
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:53 AM   #760
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Anyone here has a EU running on foams that will like to share there setup?
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:30 PM   #761
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Anyone here has a EU running on foams that will like to share there setup?
I ran mine on foams. I just stiffened up the chassis and put all of the screws back in the that i took out for the "flex" adjustment. I also went through the instruction manual and everything where it specified if it is a EU do this or if its a US do that, I just did all of the US things it said to do. I also put a diff in the front and put white springs in the rear and light purp springs in the front. I changed the shock oil to 50 in front and 37 1/2 in the rear. When you get the front diff you should run it a little loose also. It helps with your on-power steering.
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:37 PM   #762
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I ran mine on foams. I just stiffened up the chassis and put all of the screws back in the that i took out for the "flex" adjustment. I also went through the instruction manual and everything where it specified if it is a EU do this or if its a US do that, I just did all of the US things it said to do. I also put a diff in the front and put white springs in the rear and light purp springs in the front. I changed the shock oil to 50 in front and 37 1/2 in the rear. When you get the front diff you should run it a little loose also. It helps with your on-power steering.
Well now that you mention the springs, those are the ones i was going with and i had some from my 007 but the lenght on them are to long so i cant put my ride hight where i want and im trying to put it at 4.5mm but the lowest it gets is 6.5mm so now i need to find some stock springs from the us version any ideas?
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:48 PM   #763
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Well now that you mention the springs, those are the ones i was going with and i had some from my 007 but the lenght on them are to long so i cant put my ride hight where i want and im trying to put it at 4.5mm but the lowest it gets is 6.5mm so now i need to find some stock springs from the us version any ideas?
I think the light purp and white come stock with the us. at least for the 009. Just try and keep the back around 20lbs and the front around 30lbs. i Dont run sway bars either.
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:57 PM   #764
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I now they come stock on the us i have those colors already but like i said they to long and i checked the part number for the stock springs from the us and its the same part number from the ones i already have.
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:02 PM   #765
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Yea i dont know what to do about. The heaviest springs in the shorter ones are in between 25lbs and 22.5lbs. Are your drrop screws hitting you chassis when your shocks are off and you arms are pushed all the way down?
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