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Old 04-06-2009, 06:32 PM   #676
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Anybody has a set-up for outdoor low grip tight layout thanks in advance
You could try this;

http://www.piez0r.com/Skiddins/Xray%...an-STCC-09.pdf

THis is the track it's from;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zknI...eature=related
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Old 04-06-2009, 06:42 PM   #677
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thanks bro
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:21 AM   #678
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hey guys fyi the rubber spec converion is now out from xray for the 09 and t2pro check it out on xrays site
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:39 AM   #679
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hey guys fyi the rubber spec converion is now out from xray for the 09 and t2pro check it out on xrays site
It's not a rubber spec conversion, it is a completely NEW Option part for T2 Rubber Spec and T2R pro allowing a more forward motor position.
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:34 PM   #680
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Hey guys, me and the misses just built a pair of brand new euro T2 009s. I built mine, she built hers. We spent a lot of time on each step and built them with precision. But now that they are complete, they both have the same issue.... Both cars front drive shafts bind REALLY bad, every 180 degrees, when the steering is turned even the tinniest bit. So here is what I see:

drive train is at 0 degrees = steering column is smooth and loose
drive train is at 90 degrees = steering is REALLY REALLY stiff in both directions
drive train is at 180 degrees = steering is smooth and loose.
drive train is at 270 degrees = steering is REALLY REALLY stiff in both directions

So if you hold the steering turned to one side (at all, not even turned all the way) and you try to spin the drivetrain really fast, the entire front end vibrates like crazy as the drive binds, then becomes free, over and over again, every 90 degrees. I think it has something to do with the orientation of the pins/angles where the front drive shafts bend, near the front hub carriers.

I am 100% sure both cars are built to spec, by the book... and there is NO WAY, the cars will be drivable.

What the hell is going on? anybody know? Do I call the folks at Xray and say "know how the 009 is the precision king? Well... it is.. .except for ONE spot".

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Cpt.
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:41 PM   #681
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Remove the set screw and pin and try turning the universal coupler inside the dogbone/axle assembly 180 degrees and then reinserting the pin and set screw.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:23 PM   #682
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Originally Posted by Ralf View Post
It's not a rubber spec conversion, it is a completely NEW Option part for T2 Rubber Spec and T2R pro allowing a more forward motor position.


as off xrays site
New T2'009 Rubber-spec Conversion Set - Forward Motor Position
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:47 PM   #683
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Remove the set screw and pin and try turning the universal coupler inside the dogbone/axle assembly 180 degrees and then reinserting the pin and set screw.
Steve, what is the universal coupler? I took the pin out and spun the two main pieces of the shaft 180 degrees, reinserted the pin... and the shaft is REALLY tight one way, and loose the other.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:51 PM   #684
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Both cars front drive shafts bind REALLY bad, every 180 degrees, when the steering is turned even the tinniest bit. So here is what I see:

Cpt.
Did you put the spring steel shafts in the front? The alu shafts will bind at extreme angles. You can slightly chamfer the inner edges of the outer drive shaft yoke to increase the operating angle. Best done with a dremel and ball shaped stone. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:58 PM   #685
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Did you put the spring steel shafts in the front? The alu shafts will bind at extreme angles. You can slightly chamfer the inner edges of the outer drive shaft yoke to increase the operating angle. Best done with a dremel and ball shaped stone. Hope this helps.
I put the red guys in front, and the black ones in the rear, just like the manual showed.

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Remove the set screw and pin and try turning the universal coupler inside the dogbone/axle assembly 180 degrees and then reinserting the pin and set screw.
(EDIT: i have to take that back.. now that i have rebuilt it and let it sit for a few minutes.. it seems to be tight again. When I shift the two halves of the driveshaft back and forth where the coupler is spinning... it is tight.)

Thanks for the help

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Old 04-09-2009, 11:07 PM   #686
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Ok, If i build the driveshaft withOUT the graphite grease... its really smooth rotating the two pieces either way. If I use graphite like the manual says to... it eventually makes one direction sticky/bindy.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:20 PM   #687
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The coupler is the cylindrical part that goes into the dogbone itself... it has a threaded end for the set screw.

Sometimes turning things or flipping them around in the dogbone itself helps free it up.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:24 PM   #688
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The coupler is the cylindrical part that goes into the dogbone itself... it has a threaded end for the set screw.

Sometimes turning things or flipping them around in the dogbone itself helps free it up.
Yep, I found it, but it had nothing to do with with 180 degrees it went in. The HUDY graphite grease that comes with the kit... which the manual says to use on the outside of the little coupler cylinder... tured into like a glue. The cylynder would NOT spin in the dogbone... heck, I could BARELY press it back out. Once I got it out... cleaned the cylnder and inside of the dog bone out of all the dried graphite grease... it now moves free as butter.

Shame on you, HUDY graphite grease!!! it dries right to a glue.
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:57 AM   #689
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Yep, I found it, but it had nothing to do with with 180 degrees it went in. The HUDY graphite grease that comes with the kit... which the manual says to use on the outside of the little coupler cylinder... tured into like a glue. The cylynder would NOT spin in the dogbone... heck, I could BARELY press it back out. Once I got it out... cleaned the cylnder and inside of the dog bone out of all the dried graphite grease... it now moves free as butter.

Shame on you, HUDY graphite grease!!! it dries right to a glue.
Strange - I never had problems with graphite grease. It works for me very good everytime. I have problems when I forget put it in - there is more stress on axle. I deffo advice to use graphite grease - maybe you got bad batch of graphite grease?!
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Old 04-10-2009, 01:24 AM   #690
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hey,

I'm running a t2 009 eu specs with fixed diff on the front. My club track has a huge "parabol" after the straight line so we're going full speed on the parabol.

Problem is that with the fixed diff, has one wheel / shaft is rotating at a lower speed due to the parabol... one of the wheel hudy shaft is bending, "swirling"... I assume only solution is to remove the fixed differential and replace it with the same differential that I've on the rear.

The consequence of this bended shaft is that it's "OK" for having fun .. but when you turn, it makes a vibration on the wheel ... and that's quite undriveable at high speed

Weird !

Cédric
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