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Old 03-10-2009, 03:47 PM   #616
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Can someone please explain why some setups have the shims inbetween the shocks on both the front and rear towers.

What is the effect of these shims?

Thanks
Skiddins
A quote from Alex Hagberg/Xray site.

"I use a 1.5mm shim on the top mounting of the front shock to make it perfectly vertical... to gain more traction. "
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:50 PM   #617
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
A quote from Alex Hagberg/Xray site.

"I use a 1.5mm shim on the top mounting of the front shock to make it perfectly vertical... to gain more traction. "
Yep, and also if you move the rear forward and have 3 deg inboard toe you can use shims in rear to make the shocks not so angled too.
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:31 PM   #618
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Thanks and.
Which power profile would be recommended?
I usually run power of 4, 2,2,2
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Old 03-10-2009, 06:59 PM   #619
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If added 1.5mm shim between the shock tower & shock mount-top, any shim required between the lower arm & shock mount-bottom?
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:08 PM   #620
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Originally Posted by MIKA View Post
If added 1.5mm shim between the shock tower & shock mount-top, any shim required between the lower arm & shock mount-bottom?
Not required but may add if you please.
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Old 03-10-2009, 09:19 PM   #621
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If added 1.5mm shim between the shock tower & shock mount-top, any shim required between the lower arm & shock mount-bottom?
Think of this adjustment as a 2nd dimensional adjustment of the shock, where your "normal" adjustment is at the top and bottom of the shock, in and out on the top but none at the bottom. Now with the shim you are adjusting fore and aft of the shock. If you where to adjust both top and bottom the same amount this would do nothing, but when only doing the top adjustment, it would change the stiffness of the shock similar to the "normal" adjustment shock feel, but forward bite would be effected, instead of side bite.
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Old 03-10-2009, 09:34 PM   #622
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Has anyone tried to run a 009 with a fibreglass T2R Pro chassis plate instead of graphite? Im thinking the fibreglass might be much more supple for unprepared low grip rubber asphalt racing
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Old 03-14-2009, 06:24 AM   #623
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Pickup a US 009 and while going through the car to see what kind of setup is on it, found that one rear wheel is about 4 deg toe while the other is about 2 deg toe. It has an equal amount of shims on either side, inner hinge pin is not bent, same 1 deg. blocks on either side and everything moves freely, so I dont think anything else is bent.

I did change one shim from a .03 to a .02 and that helped out a bit. I know tolerances on parts can add up and will throw some things off. A couple thousandths here and there can add up.

Short of pulling the rear bulkhead off and checking that, anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 03-14-2009, 06:34 AM   #624
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Originally Posted by xrayeddy View Post
Pickup a US 009 and while going through the car to see what kind of setup is on it, found that one rear wheel is about 4 deg toe while the other is about 2 deg toe. It has an equal amount of shims on either side, inner hinge pin is not bent, same 1 deg. blocks on either side and everything moves freely, so I dont think anything else is bent.

I did change one shim from a .03 to a .02 and that helped out a bit. I know tolerances on parts can add up and will throw some things off. A couple thousandths here and there can add up.

Short of pulling the rear bulkhead off and checking that, anyone have any suggestions?
The rear uprights are side specific (L and R designated). Maybe you have two lefts or two rights? Having the wrong one on a side will actually reduce the toe in on that side.
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Old 03-14-2009, 06:49 AM   #625
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The rear blocks are correct, and I forgot to mention this is being checked on a Unity setup station. It's the same when I turn the car around on the setup and rotate the camber/toe gauges, I still get one wheel that is off.
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:11 AM   #626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
Has anyone tried to run a 009 with a fibreglass T2R Pro chassis plate instead of graphite? Im thinking the fibreglass might be much more supple for unprepared low grip rubber asphalt racing
No, but have you tried the asphalt top deck, which is thinner and more flexible?

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Old 03-14-2009, 09:11 AM   #627
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Originally Posted by xrayeddy View Post
The rear blocks are correct, and I forgot to mention this is being checked on a Unity setup station. It's the same when I turn the car around on the setup and rotate the camber/toe gauges, I still get one wheel that is off.
in addition to L and R blocks they are also sold in different * of toe. Maybe one side is a 0* toe and the other is 2*
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Old 03-14-2009, 10:40 AM   #628
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Originally Posted by xrayeddy View Post
The rear blocks are correct, and I forgot to mention this is being checked on a Unity setup station. It's the same when I turn the car around on the setup and rotate the camber/toe gauges, I still get one wheel that is off.
Do you have a lot of play in the uprights? Bearings? Axles? If there is a lot of play, that could cause 1 degree of difference quite easily.
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Old 03-15-2009, 10:16 AM   #629
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Hello

Can someone suggest me some good rcshop in Europe where they still have T2 009 in stock. Best would be in UK.
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Old 03-15-2009, 02:22 PM   #630
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Hello

Can someone suggest me some good rcshop in Europe where they still have T2 009 in stock. Best would be in UK.
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/ite...ar-Kit-__3447/

http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/XR300013.html

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