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Old 02-02-2011, 09:41 AM   #2536
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Originally Posted by Capt'N_Slow View Post
With the 009 on carpet you have way to much front steering and grip. To remove grip from front I use the 2mm shim to reduce roll while I take the shim out on the rear to increase the roll of the rear increasing grip.
To be honest, I do the mirror opposite. If you run a 2mm shim at front, the steering is more agressive because of the added camber change. On the rear, if I take the shim off rear hub I have next to no camber change, the tire slides across the carpet. To prove my point, simply angle the rear links of the car by adding 2-3mm shims on the rear hubs and(or) change the upper RC position to a lower position. The car is rock solid at the rear whilst turning into a corner.
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:23 PM   #2537
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Originally Posted by maxg123456 View Post
To be honest, I do the mirror opposite. If you run a 2mm shim at front, the steering is more agressive because of the added camber change. On the rear, if I take the shim off rear hub I have next to no camber change, the tire slides across the carpet. To prove my point, simply angle the rear links of the car by adding 2-3mm shims on the rear hubs and(or) change the upper RC position to a lower position. The car is rock solid at the rear whilst turning into a corner.
I was confused about this relationship as well and had to review the xray setup book.

(page 15 of 44) camber change (camber rise/intake) is controlled by the lenght of the upper camber link. The amount of change can be quickly altered using positions 1 thru 4 on the shock tower.

Later I verified this by using the xray setup system keeping the same shock tower roll center position I used 1mm shim then 3mm shim and still achieved 0.5deg of camber change.

(page 25 & 26 of 44) The shims directly affect the roll center of the car. By adding shims you raise the roll center and by removing you lower it.

Raising Roll Center = Harder to Roll (less grip).

Lower Roll Center = Easier to Roll (more grip).
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:59 PM   #2538
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Originally Posted by Capt'N_Slow View Post
I was confused about this relationship as well and had to review the xray setup book.

(page 15 of 44) camber change (camber rise/intake) is controlled by the lenght of the upper camber link. The amount of change can be quickly altered using positions 1 thru 4 on the shock tower.

Later I verified this by using the xray setup system keeping the same shock tower roll center position I used 1mm shim then 3mm shim and still achieved 0.5deg of camber change.

(page 25 & 26 of 44) The shims directly affect the roll center of the car. By adding shims you raise the roll center and by removing you lower it.

Raising Roll Center = Harder to Roll (less grip).

Lower Roll Center = Easier to Roll (more grip).
Its not really as simple as that I find. More roll doesn't always mean more grip. The xray setup book is not actually the most helpfull, as a lot of the advice wont get get you the same results on the track.

For example, changing the front lower roll centers from 0.75+ to 0.00 doesn't actually just add roll, it can make the car easier to drive, as it calms down the response at the front end. Even more obvious is when you reverse the scenario with the T3 11' car. By changing the RC from having 0.00 and 3.0 springs at front, to 0.75+ and 2.8 springs, the car responds a lot faster which is very handy on a small indoor track.

Shortening the links is also a good way of getting camber change. Its just more aggressive. Perhaps too aggressive a change, to the point of slowing the car down through the corners. I tried your method and got from 0.5deg camber change to 0.8, which can be all it takes to keep the rear stuck more. If ever I want to change the roll center, I always do so with the lower arms, as its such a small change on the upper links.
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Old 02-03-2011, 12:31 PM   #2539
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You are correct I find the xray setup book explains individual changes very well but for the best overall setup effect you typically have to adjust more then one aspect of the car.

It would be nice if they included an appendix which includes typical setup changes (trade offs) for certain track conditions with explanations of there effects. (low to medium bite asphalt and high grip carpet come to mind) Which seem to be the hardest to nail down out of the box.

The funny part is there is no substitute for practice and no setup change is going to make you a better driver. There are a lot of people that run box stock setup and are faster at my track.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:56 PM   #2540
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Exotek update : thanks for the suggestions so far
I raced my the car with the new Exotek chassis yesterday. Definitely faster.
Still looses the rear grip, mainly braking into a tight turn. Didnt have any time to try/test all the suggested fixes (track was closed on sat) & I didnt want to start making changes just before the racing started, but a front swaybar & L1/L2 in the rear didnt help.
Perhaps all the added lead at the rear is causing a pendulem affect ??

When I get the rear sorted it will be even faster, but still great as is.
The front/overall grip in the sweeper is alot better than std chassis, perhaps its just a tradeoff that has to be made : fr or rear grip ???
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Old 02-06-2011, 11:16 PM   #2541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Exotek update : thanks for the suggestions so far
I raced my the car with the new Exotek chassis yesterday. Definitely faster.
Still looses the rear grip, mainly braking into a tight turn. Didnt have any time to try/test all the suggested fixes (track was closed on sat) & I didnt want to start making changes just before the racing started, but a front swaybar & L1/L2 in the rear didnt help.
Perhaps all the added lead at the rear is causing a pendulem affect ??

When I get the rear sorted it will be even faster, but still great as is.
The front/overall grip in the sweeper is alot better than std chassis, perhaps its just a tradeoff that has to be made : fr or rear grip ???
My guess is you want to move your weight forward and also you may want to check your rear diff for slippage (it is critical!!!!). Also I would say you are running too thin front shock oil, I would try 600cst 3 hole or maybe even 2 hole.

Another thing to consider is you might have to put a post in the front to stiffen that end of the chassis up a little. When running the T2R fibreglass chassis on my T2008 I had to do this as the flex was too great at the front.

If the car is still bad then go to the higher roll centre front end. It does make some difference.

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Old 02-08-2011, 09:18 PM   #2542
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Need some pics up in here.



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Old 02-09-2011, 10:07 AM   #2543
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Need some pics up in here.
Nice! What kind of color is this? Brown metallic?
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Old 02-09-2011, 10:38 AM   #2544
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i would rather adjust steering away from the radio instead...then do whatever in the car for adjustments...
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Old 02-09-2011, 03:54 PM   #2545
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Nice! What kind of color is this? Brown metallic?
Funny thing is that this color is yes a "Rootbear Met Brown" but it is made by Faskolor and is called "Faspearl Black" on the bottle. BTW it's my favorite color.

Backside pic. Forgive my crappy black sharpie line. lol

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Old 02-13-2011, 11:05 AM   #2546
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What batteries are people using with the Exotek lipo chassis? I can only fit my GM 4200mah 45C (21mm) under the topdeck, but I need batteries with more power. But most batteries today are 25mm = high.

What batteries are people using with Exotek? Or what are people doing to fit larger batteries below the topdeck?

I don't like using the carbon plates for lifting the topdeck, as I believe it removes some flex.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:21 PM   #2547
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Hi Guys,

I am back from my race today and I tried a new setup (see attachment) based on some hints you gave me.

The car goes much better than last time but I still have a problem. I am not sure if it is related to the car and its setup or if it is a problem with my driving technics.

Unfortunately I am not allowed to post a link. So if you search für tR43QXMiiJ0 on youtube you find a video of the track. In seconds 0:13 till 0:16 you see the passage I have some problems with. My friend with his TC5 closes in this passage extremely. Its like he is faster in the corners.

How would you drive it?
Or do you see any flaw in my setup?

Thanks,

Orci77
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-20110213-eiscup-mac-mette.jpg  
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:37 AM   #2548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
High there. I just raced with my new exotek chassis.
The rear grip is now alot less than before, pretty much standard setup.
Hi guys. Just an update: 2 weeks later & in the 2nd heat on Saturday the Exotek chassis just starting working perfectly, rear grip alot better.
Very strange but now all good.
Cheers
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:02 PM   #2549
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Originally Posted by orci77 View Post
Hi Guys,

I am back from my race today and I tried a new setup (see attachment) based on some hints you gave me.

The car goes much better than last time but I still have a problem. I am not sure if it is related to the car and its setup or if it is a problem with my driving technics.

Unfortunately I am not allowed to post a link. So if you search für tR43QXMiiJ0 on youtube you find a video of the track. In seconds 0:13 till 0:16 you see the passage I have some problems with. My friend with his TC5 closes in this passage extremely. Its like he is faster in the corners.

How would you drive it?
Or do you see any flaw in my setup?

Thanks,

Orci77
Looking at your car, it has the oppostite to mine. Theres def some low speed understeer. Its too lazy, hence the TC5 looking like it had more corner speed. I'd run 2.8 springs at front, 1.4 bar at front also. To me the car looks very stable and setup well for a larger track, which is a good thing to start with. It just needs fine tuning.
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:41 AM   #2550
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Originally Posted by maxg123456 View Post
Looking at your car, it has the oppostite to mine. Theres def some low speed understeer. Its too lazy, hence the TC5 looking like it had more corner speed. I'd run 2.8 springs at front, 1.4 bar at front also. To me the car looks very stable and setup well for a larger track, which is a good thing to start with. It just needs fine tuning.
I took your setup and the Las Vegas setup from Lemieux as a base.
Never though about it but right it is low speed understeer. But what is the cause of this?
I have 2.8 springs here but need to get a 1.4 bar.
If the tracks get larger I am getting faster and superior to my friends with their TC5 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVi96lsk3zw). Somebody supposed to me to decrease the rear toe. Maybe I try this too.
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