R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-08-2010, 04:25 PM   #2416
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dorset,UK
Posts: 128
Default

I am after a bit of set up advice please. I'm running a 009 with the 38t pulleys and ecs driveshafts i race on an technical indoor carpet track 24m x 12m my car is set up as per the carpet / rubber set up in the manual. I'm running a Tekin rs and a redline 13.5t motor and fdr 7.9. The problem i've got is if i set the Tekin up on conservative settings the car is on rails and handles really well. As soon as i add a bit of extra punch and some timing for speed the car is all over the place mainly corner exit on power the back end just lets go and the car oversteers really bad. The diff has been rebuilt and is set up fine and is very smooth, the shocks have been rebuilt and have no air in them. I completely stripped the car and replaced some bent hinge pins and all bearings. It just can't handle the extra grunt from the lively settings any ideas where to start please as i'm fed up with MI4's with Speed passions out handling me
BILKO1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2010, 04:57 PM   #2417
Tech Regular
 
clparsons123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 323
Default

did you check your belts make sure they are not slipping?
a slipping belt will cause the car to act crazy
__________________
EAM (TEAM EA MOTORSPORTS),ORCA, RC AMERICA, XRAY,HUDY,EZ CUSTOMS, RSD (REFLEX RACING) , JEFFS RC STUDIO, RCTVLIVE
Cory parsons
clparsons123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2010, 06:59 AM   #2418
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dorset,UK
Posts: 128
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by clparsons123 View Post
did you check your belts make sure they are not slipping?
a slipping belt will cause the car to act crazy
I replaced them when i rebuilt the car and they are adjusted fine.
BILKO1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2010, 11:25 PM   #2419
Tech Addict
 
waOscar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Pattaya Thailand
Posts: 614
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BILKO1 View Post
I am after a bit of set up advice please. I'm running a 009 with the 38t pulleys and ecs driveshafts i race on an technical indoor carpet track 24m x 12m my car is set up as per the carpet / rubber set up in the manual. I'm running a Tekin rs and a redline 13.5t motor and fdr 7.9. The problem i've got is if i set the Tekin up on conservative settings the car is on rails and handles really well. As soon as i add a bit of extra punch and some timing for speed the car is all over the place mainly corner exit on power the back end just lets go and the car oversteers really bad. The diff has been rebuilt and is set up fine and is very smooth, the shocks have been rebuilt and have no air in them. I completely stripped the car and replaced some bent hinge pins and all bearings. It just can't handle the extra grunt from the lively settings any ideas where to start please as i'm fed up with MI4's with Speed passions out handling me
Diff or spool in front?
__________________
Xray T3 2011 - my asphalt chassis
Xray T3 2011 - my carpet chassis
waOscar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2010, 05:22 AM   #2420
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dorset,UK
Posts: 128
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by waOscar View Post
Diff or spool in front?
Spool, did try a diff when i first got the car but didn't like it as the brakes were poor and it really over steered.
BILKO1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2010, 04:48 AM   #2421
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 226
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BILKO1 View Post
I am after a bit of set up advice please. I'm running a 009 with the 38t pulleys and ecs driveshafts i race on an technical indoor carpet track 24m x 12m my car is set up as per the carpet / rubber set up in the manual. I'm running a Tekin rs and a redline 13.5t motor and fdr 7.9. The problem i've got is if i set the Tekin up on conservative settings the car is on rails and handles really well. As soon as i add a bit of extra punch and some timing for speed the car is all over the place mainly corner exit on power the back end just lets go and the car oversteers really bad. The diff has been rebuilt and is set up fine and is very smooth, the shocks have been rebuilt and have no air in them. I completely stripped the car and replaced some bent hinge pins and all bearings. It just can't handle the extra grunt from the lively settings any ideas where to start please as i'm fed up with MI4's with Speed passions out handling me
Hi. i'm running an xray 008 at Maritime raceway UK.
I have the same problem with a Speed passion with latest firmware. I'm having to run the timing ramp very wide, otherwise too short, the car overheats its tires in a minute or so due to the car accelerating to top speed and burning its tires. Unfortunately theres not much you can do about this really I find. When I ran an LRP SPX stock, the car is more progressive upto speed and is not killing the tires.
maxg123456 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2010, 04:56 AM   #2422
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 226
Default Chassis flex

My question is, does anyone here actually understand what the flex on front/rear of the car does to the handling? - I know about setup, but i'm finding that the rear flex options actually ruin the handing indoors on certain tracks and its the front flex screw holes that can give the car a bit more steering and compliance in the handling.

Put it this way, when I added the top/rear deck 2 screws to make the car have full amount of screws at the rear, the car was more stable and predictable. It was actually very surprising how big a change it was, considering how stiff the car already is at that point!

When I take the middle motor mount screw out the car is dreadfull and more snappy. This is on carpet. It seems to me having the right flex in the right place is the most important thing. I also swapped the rubber EU top deck with the rubber Asphalt EU top deck and the car was slightly more stable also, because the front part of the deck has a bit more flex, but the rest is kept the same.

I just wonder how many of you guys have experienced these scenarios indoors. The biggest problem I have is snap oversteer on corner entry to slow corners. As soon as throttle is touched, it wouldn't really matter what setup I have, the car is dialled. I've tried 6 deg caster blocks, harder front springs, Paul L setups, less downtravel at front (helped) but the car basically has an inherant snappiness into slow corners at certain indoor tracks. The laptimes are fast, but the car is hard to drive. I have camber 1.5 front, 2.5 rear and that was a decent change, so i'm keeping that. I'm finding stock setup with a few minor tweaks to be the best compromise, like less front camber, less front downtravel (6.0 to 6.5).
maxg123456 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2010, 02:36 PM   #2423
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,081
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxg123456 View Post
The biggest problem I have is snap oversteer on corner entry to slow corners. As soon as throttle is touched, it wouldn't really matter what setup I have

the car is dialled.

the car basically has an inherant snappiness into slow corners at certain indoor tracks.

the car is hard to drive.
Sorry, I wouldn't call your car "dialed" if you are having those issues.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2010, 09:01 PM   #2424
Tech Champion
 
hanulec's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 8,559
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

i've got some forward motor conversion parts available for a smoking deal -- http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ion-parts.html
__________________
FJ / ROAR #2-122945 / MaxRotation FPV Drone Racing / [email protected] Awesomatix USA / Wild Turbo Fan / Mon-Tech Racing / RocheRC USA / Side Piece /
LRP / John's BSR Tires / TeamEAM / TQ Wire / R1 / Team Scream / PCR / MIX
RacerLog wiki Awesomatix A700 / 2wd offroad 4 life
hanulec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2010, 02:48 AM   #2425
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 226
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Sorry, I wouldn't call your car "dialed" if you are having those issues.
Thanks for your help

If you read it again, I said dialed on throttle.

Last edited by maxg123456; 06-15-2010 at 03:55 AM.
maxg123456 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2010, 10:11 AM   #2426
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,081
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Im considering trying out a specR gear diff in the front of my 09. My question is will it work with my ECS drive shafts? And the 34tooth pully is the stock pully, correct?
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2010, 10:46 AM   #2427
Tech Regular
 
clparsons123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 323
Default

yes the stock pulley is 34 tooth .id like to try the specR diff also . i no a couple people using them in there 416we's they say there really good.
__________________
EAM (TEAM EA MOTORSPORTS),ORCA, RC AMERICA, XRAY,HUDY,EZ CUSTOMS, RSD (REFLEX RACING) , JEFFS RC STUDIO, RCTVLIVE
Cory parsons
clparsons123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2010, 10:21 PM   #2428
Tech Champion
 
touringdriver's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: RICKY RACERVILLE
Posts: 5,203
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

can anyone tell me the difference in running the 1.7 final drive ratio as apposed to the 1.9 fdr? i have the kit just looking for some input. does it make the car more throttle responsive with the 1.9 fdr?
__________________
Proudly Sponsored by: Mr. Crash Racing, RickyRacer lidz & Ebay..
Rock Chalk Jayhawks
2014 Subway Cup & Dee and Mees On-road Race Schedule:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/kansas-m...l#post11891510
touringdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2010, 10:41 AM   #2429
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by touringdriver View Post
can anyone tell me the difference in running the 1.7 final drive ratio as apposed to the 1.9 fdr? i have the kit just looking for some input. does it make the car more throttle responsive with the 1.9 fdr?
You are referring the the car's Internal Drive Ratio (IDR). The FDR Final Drive Ratio is the ultimate ratio when motor gearing is included.

From a gear ratio standpoint all I see in the 1.9 IDR vs the 1.7 IDR is that it would make it easier to gear for lower turn mod. However, for 13.5 - 21.5, the stock 1.7 is good enough.

Edit: Thats for motor/esc setups with no timing advance. For setups with timing advance like the Tekin where a higher FDR is needed then the 1.9IDR would help in gearing.

There may be some other reason behind a higher IDR (ie. more gear reduction), so perhaps someone can explain more about it.
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2010, 11:14 AM   #2430
Tech Champion
 
YR4Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 5,625
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Last week I broke the top plate on the XRay. I was able to get it running without the top plate and to my surprise, it ran better without it. I'm assuming that all the extra flex from not having the top plate attributed to better traction. However that setup didn't last long because the "flex" also untensioned the front belt such that it came of the front diff pulley. Perhaps that setup can still work if I can find a belt tensioner to put on the chassis. Anyone know of one I can use on the XRay?

BTW for anyones concern, I researched the parts list for the 009 vs the T3 and found that all the suspension parts and some of the drivetrain parts are compatible. I had to do this because my local shop carries parts for T3 but was not sure if they would fit the T2 009.
YR4Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
RC equipments for Sale ijnek Malaysian R/C Racers 22836 09-09-2009 02:50 PM
Xray T2 009 is here FK05 lover Australian Racing 436 08-02-2009 03:41 AM
RaceCraft TC Challenge Kylelim Singapore R/C Racers 119 07-03-2009 09:08 AM
Brushless touring car Salt Air Electric On-Road 9 04-20-2009 04:45 AM
Mana nak beli Xrayt2'009 tq9911 Malaysian R/C Racers 131 04-14-2009 11:10 PM
Wanna start elec this year, need help gentleman81 Electric On-Road 20 02-21-2009 02:15 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:06 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net