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Old 10-11-2009, 11:44 AM   #1966
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Who has tried the xray 38t conversion?How did it change the car?Thinking about purchasing it today.Thanks
I think that the 38 tooth conversion simply makes the on and off power handling smoother and more consistant. I would recommend it!
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Old 10-11-2009, 12:07 PM   #1967
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I find these to be the best thrusts. They never wear out unless for some reason the rings get chipped. http://www.mcmaster.com/#7806k53/=40kxsq

For me the corally 2.4mm ceramic diff balls last the longest and grip the rings the best. I sand my rings with 1000 sandpaper and some oil. The rings were a mirror finish, and I used AE silicone lube. Like Paul said in his artice put lube in everyother hole on the pulley. As long as you dont get any grease on the outdrives where the ring rubs, the diff is locked with the least amount of pressure and is super free/smooth.
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Old 10-11-2009, 12:48 PM   #1968
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Also try Axiom racing. They have awesome ceramic thrust and diff balls. Unbelievably smooth!

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Old 10-11-2009, 12:54 PM   #1969
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MY rear end is loose coming out of turns and i dont know what to do. Any help?
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:05 PM   #1970
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Does anyone know what inside pulley you are supposed to use with the 38 tooth to get the 1.9 trans 16 or 20
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:29 PM   #1971
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:35 PM   #1972
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MY rear end is loose coming out of turns and i dont know what to do. Any help?
Hard to say without knowing the rest of your setup but more rear toe in or standing your rear shocks up generally helps with this sort of problem.
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:35 PM   #1973
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Hard to say without knowing the rest of your setup but more rear toe in or standing your rear shocks up generally helps with this sort of problem.
thank you
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Old 10-11-2009, 03:17 PM   #1974
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Thanks
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:18 PM   #1975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03 View Post
I find these to be the best thrusts. They never wear out unless for some reason the rings get chipped. http://www.mcmaster.com/#7806k53/=40kxsq

For me the corally 2.4mm ceramic diff balls last the longest and grip the rings the best. I sand my rings with 1000 sandpaper and some oil. The rings were a mirror finish, and I used AE silicone lube. Like Paul said in his artice put lube in everyother hole on the pulley. As long as you dont get any grease on the outdrives where the ring rubs, the diff is locked with the least amount of pressure and is super free/smooth.

mcmastercarr ?
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:27 AM   #1976
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Can any one tell me if the plastic kit shocks with 3 hole piston is the same size holes in piston as the 3 hole piston that comes with alum shocks?


also if it is different will the pistons that come with alum shocks fit the plastic shocks?
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:25 AM   #1977
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38/20 needs longer belts
I think T3 will come like that 1.9...
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:36 AM   #1978
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Default Steering slop/play on the T2 009

I have noticed a quite alot of play in the steering of my 009, Mostly this is where the front upper camber link joins the c hub. I can wiggle it around and see the top screw that joins the camber link to the c hub moving. Has any one used the new XRay 302661 5mm closed ball ?? did they cut out the slop. Does any one have any tips to get rid of slop/play
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:42 AM   #1979
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:32 AM   #1980
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I have noticed a quite alot of play in the steering of my 009, Mostly this is where the front upper camber link joins the c hub. I can wiggle it around and see the top screw that joins the camber link to the c hub moving. Has any one used the new XRay 302661 5mm closed ball ?? did they cut out the slop. Does any one have any tips to get rid of slop/play
It sounds like you are missing the little gromit that goes in both the top and bottom of the Chub. Check your instruction manual, and rebuild the Chub assembly and I bet you find something is missing or built incorrectly.
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