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Old 10-02-2009, 04:20 PM   #1921
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use the correct pins ,don't use thread Lock but apply Heat shrink to hold Pins that's it
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Old 10-02-2009, 07:11 PM   #1922
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Thanks, I told you that they are legit. Your new body is sick, as well as your new car.

I have been lurking in the Mi4 thread a lot
Yeah they work really well!

Haha thanks. I need a low pro servo. How are you liking the Orion one?
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:31 PM   #1923
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The servo is the torquiest low-profile that I've seen with speed and quality to boot. Fits the 009 quite well.
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:21 PM   #1924
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use the correct pins ,don't use thread Lock but apply Heat shrink to hold Pins that's it
I agree 100%!!! I've done the same thing to it just like the Losi LCD's and works like a champ.
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Old 10-03-2009, 04:03 AM   #1925
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I have read some TC guides that say having more weight towards the back of the car makes the car more likely to spin out, and other guides say that more weight over the rear takes away steering and adds rear traction. which is true??

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Old 10-03-2009, 04:13 AM   #1926
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I have read some TC guides that having more weight towards the back of the car makes the car more likely to spin out, and other guides say that more weight over the rear takes away steering and adds rear traction. which is true??
Had a lot of discussion oabout with some good drivers recently.
I think it can depend on driving style and how much weight, but one of the guys running a Tamiya 416 has all his additional weight at the front right behind the front wishbones and he also runs the largest spur he can to help move the motor forward. His car is ballistic, but when a friend tried the exact same setup (but with his ballast spread around more) it became tail happy.

So I would say forward, but you may have to make slight changes to the setup to make it work properly.

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Old 10-03-2009, 05:30 AM   #1927
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Had a lot of discussion oabout with some good drivers recently.
I think it can depend on driving style and how much weight, but one of the guys running a Tamiya 416 has all his additional weight at the front right behind the front wishbones and he also runs the largest spur he can to help move the motor forward. His car is ballistic, but when a friend tried the exact same setup (but with his ballast spread around more) it became tail happy.

So I would say forward, but you may have to make slight changes to the setup to make it work properly.

Skiddins

i have to add 175 grams of lead just to get my car up to our legal weight of 1425grams, and my car is behaving badly off power, and heaps of different setup changes didnt help hardly at all. I did have the car front heavy, im thinking of changing the weight more to the back and see if it helps or not, problem is i have a race in a matter of hours and dont have much testing time.
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Old 10-03-2009, 09:57 AM   #1928
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I've tested my car with weights biased to the front makes it easy to drive up to a point, which then becomes very understeery. Adding droop to the back also helps when the car is tail happy. Try reducing ackermaan which will help too.
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Old 10-03-2009, 10:24 AM   #1929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
I have read some TC guides that say having more weight towards the back of the car makes the car more likely to spin out, and other guides say that more weight over the rear takes away steering and adds rear traction. which is true??

Im pretty sure that adding weight can do hundreds of things. If it is too much and the suspension cant handle the weight, it will overload in a corner and swing on around. On the other hand, if you have a rear weight biased car, you will have more weight transfer and a possibility of more steering. Too much weight towards the front and your car will push because it overloads the suspension.
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:52 AM   #1930
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first question is are you hanged out the lipo pack? If so don't expect much about well balanced car
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Old 10-03-2009, 01:59 PM   #1931
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Does anyone use scales? I bought 4 small digital scales and set my ride height and droop 1st then placed it on the scales, balanced it to 50/50 right and left side wieght and 54% rear bias.

Does anyone else know any actual numbers? If so we could compare and find out what % front/rear combo works best.
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Old 10-03-2009, 02:15 PM   #1932
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Does anyone use scales? I bought 4 small digital scales and set my ride height and droop 1st then placed it on the scales, balanced it to 50/50 right and left side wieght and 54% rear bias.

Does anyone else know any actual numbers? If so we could compare and find out what % front/rear combo works best.
Quite a while back but;


The weight is always biased slightly towards the back as that's where the motor is.

When guys were running 5cell, 90% of the time they put the 5cell pack in the front 5 slots of the 6.

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Old 10-03-2009, 08:20 PM   #1933
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is that scale trick really works?
do you always check the car with scales and do you really try to match 4 corners weight? if so how? by adding extra weight?
Thanx in advance
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Old 10-03-2009, 08:51 PM   #1934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I think it can depend on driving style and how much weight, but one of the guys running a Tamiya 416 has all his additional weight at the front right behind the front wishbones and he also runs the largest spur he can to help move the motor forward. His car is ballistic, but when a friend tried the exact same setup (but with his ballast spread around more) it became tail happy.
I did the exact opposite with my Mi4. More weight in the rear helps settle it down IMO.
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Old 10-03-2009, 08:59 PM   #1935
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Xray TQ's all 3 TC classes at the Roar Paved Nats. Congrats to Paul, Robbie and Mike H. Jr. Good luck in the mains tomorrow.

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