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Old 06-24-2004, 06:25 AM   #1441
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losirob,

I am not ray or josh, but I believe that if you take the carpet towers and cut the tips off (3 last holes) your will have 2 holes that line up with the holes in the steering knuckle. you will have to shave down one of the button head screws so that you can get 2 screws into the steering knuckle
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Old 06-24-2004, 07:22 PM   #1442
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Aaron - Hu??...lol..

tridagger - I used the other style ball stud and ball cup that allows me to raise it up a bunch... It's the same type balls that you use in the shock caps with the matching ball cups...

fast-ho-cars - We haven't had any major issues with breakage or handling. Just as with any new car or product though, over time you learn more and want to make the small adjustments that will improve the car. Just the nature of racing, testing and development really... We will be releasing an "asphalt" chassis soon but that's all....

Pozer - I do still race for Kyosho and I think the FW-05R is a good car. I haven't had much time with it but I am happy with the progress that Kyosho has made with the car in a short time. Remember, that car was made to be a ready-to-run car and wound up being a strong performer out of the box so Kyosho decided to push it farther to make it into a 100% race car....

rbboy - The blue springs are actually softer... Other than that there were no "secrets". Everything that I did set-up wise was on the sheet and my clutch and engine tuning guides are on the web....

ray - After years of racing with several touring cars (Yokomo, Losi, TC3 and now my Xray) I've just learned the feel and balance of the cars on carpet. It does take me time to figure out the differences and how to create a good balance - every once and a while I hit on it and it is pretty good!!..lol...

losirob - Yep, what theisgroup said!!!
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Old 06-24-2004, 07:43 PM   #1443
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Quote:
Originally posted by Josh Cyrul
ray - After years of racing with several touring cars (Yokomo, Losi, TC3 and now my Xray) I've just learned the feel and balance of the cars on carpet. It does take me time to figure out the differences and how to create a good balance - every once and a while I hit on it and it is pretty good!!..lol...
Well Josh-of the four guys who drove my Xray last night-I heard comments from "Amazing" to "the easiest to drive TC I've ever driven" to "you gotta drive this one". I am running light purple springs and no sway bar up front, LRC front and BLue rear springs, but other than that--its still your Nats set-up.

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 06-25-2004, 08:25 PM   #1444
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If you have covered this I apologize, but 48 pages is a loooooong read . Anyway I am such a hack on the track, I am not even comfortable running with anyone else on the track for fear of breaking thier expensive toys. Do you have any tips for practicing? Is there anything that can be done to get more out of the practice time. I have 6 kids and don't get to the track as often as I would like.

Thanks for your time
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Old 06-26-2004, 10:04 AM   #1445
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josh - i have just read your report on one of your races and you said that you installed a softer rear spring to prevent your car from three wheeling at some of the corners.
-why did you opt this remedy?
-would you have gotten the same effects if you used a stiffer spring up-front?
-can you briefly pointout the benefits of using a softer rear spring to compensate for "three wheeling" over from installing harder front springs?

i know its kinda long but i'm hoping you can help me out with this.
thanks in advance!!!
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Old 06-27-2004, 10:58 PM   #1446
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Josh, how did you manage to use the outer hole on the rear arm with 28 mm foams? Is there some special trick i'm not seeing or are you just shaving down the shock end (not much to shave there, though )?
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Old 06-28-2004, 09:02 AM   #1447
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Ray - Sounds good!!

daveo1265 - If you can't practice at the track then use the driveway or street (just be on the look out for cars!!). When I was younger I ran hundreds of packs around shoes, shovels and whatever else I could find in the garage to set up on the driveway to practice driving around. Always change the track (sometimes just a little each pack) as that will teach you how to adapt to a new layout or if a board gets moved during a race and you still have to drive around it.... When you are at the track (or still at home) it's good to run with someone with your skill level or higher and just practice "racing". My father would run pack after pack crashing and blocking me - it was my job to pass without contact and drive more defensively so if there was contact I wouldn't end up in the wall.... Just be patient as it just takes time - most important, just have fun and don't try too hard!!

striker - My car was lifting the inside rear tire in a few places - this usually means that the rear end was too stiff to roll so it would lift the tire. I softened it up, gained some chassis roll and kept the inside rear wheel on the track. Running a stiffer spring up front would have only helped the problem a very very small amount but I would have lost too much steering - would have also made the car more twitchy....

Brian - We actually shave about 2-3mm off of the suspension arm where the shock mounts.... Lots of room then!!!
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Old 06-28-2004, 09:07 AM   #1448
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Josh,

Did the chassis that you used at the Reedy race have the batts moved forward as compared to the stock Xray chassis?


Thanks
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Old 06-28-2004, 03:38 PM   #1449
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Ozwald - Yep, although hindsight being 20/20 I think it actually hurt me - too much weight on the front tires meant not enough forward bite. The added front weight bias also caused the front tires to overheat giving the car a push about 1:30-2:30 minutes into the race.... I think the standard battery position is better on rubber tires with a spool....
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Old 06-28-2004, 04:12 PM   #1450
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hey josh,

i'm curious about your set-up fro the reedy. i see you run zero degrees of caster. is that because the track is flat or were trying to get your car to turn in better because of the spool? i run six degrees of caster with no kick up, just curious. thanks for any input.
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Old 06-28-2004, 10:15 PM   #1451
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Josh - i'm having a hard time getting the perfect gearing without making the belt touch my motor. is it ok if the belt (front/rear/both) touches the motor? wont this shorten the life of my belt? would it cause bind to my fk's drivetrain?
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Old 06-28-2004, 10:20 PM   #1452
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I'm not Josh, but I've been told by many people and another Xray team driver that the belts tightens so much under acceleration that it isn't even close to touching the motor. I had the same "problem" before.
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Old 06-28-2004, 10:29 PM   #1453
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my rear belt barely touchs the motor can, but after run there are no marks onto the can!!!!
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:56 PM   #1454
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trigger - It just depends on the track, tires, and set-up as well as driver preference. I tried it, like it better and stuck with it as it gave me more steering than 3 or 6 degree blocks did.

striker - Mine touches as well.... If you put your motor in, set your gear mesh and then roll the car backwards on the table slowly, you can see how much the belts tighten up and this will be a good indicator if they will drag on the motor can while racing.
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:02 AM   #1455
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thanks josh will do!!

yesterday i installed a zero degree caster and have yet to try it.
i will hit the tracks later after work to test it. i will keep you posted.
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