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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

Old 12-10-2017, 07:38 PM
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I race maybe once a month with my OLD F103 and Im still within 1 sec of guys running the latest and greatest. I know 1 sec is an eternity on a small track but Im fully convinced that its me thats the issue, not the old girl with the beat up Ligier Mugen livery. The latest and greatest isnt worth a lick of salt once you hit a couple pipes.
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Old 12-11-2017, 05:13 AM
  #13772  
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Originally Posted by SpeedySST
I race maybe once a month with my OLD F103 and Im still within 1 sec of guys running the latest and greatest. I know 1 sec is an eternity on a small track but Im fully convinced that its me thats the issue, not the old girl with the beat up Ligier Mugen livery. The latest and greatest isnt worth a lick of salt once you hit a couple pipes.
I agree! The newer cars seem to have a lot more things on them that break easily or become unsettled easily after a knock or two.. Tamiya F103/4s while simpler cars are much more durable imo especially for outdoors.. and parts are cheap and easy to find..
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim Neja
Are serpent F-1 cars any good? One for sale --- who stocks parts for them?
I love my SF2W, and I've seen a prototype of the SF3. I've also done plenty of practice sessions at one of Serpent's test tracks and mine is quite easy to drive and the setup window seems very large to get the most from it.

If you want to know where to get parts check their website Serpent Model Racing Cars - Home

In terms of durability, I've hit thing's VERY hard and so far only broken one ball joint on the front end. Plus the fact I don't need to compromise on shells compared to the rear jungle gyms of others means I'll definitely stick with the Serpent F1 cars in the future.

That's my experience.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:19 AM
  #13774  
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For you guys running the 24k 25.5, what timing/ratio is working with that motor? 96x48ft track.
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:08 AM
  #13775  
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Mark your calendars for mid February for the Pan Car Championships at Windy City RC
https://www.rctech.net/forum/electri...ed-fantom.html
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Old 12-22-2017, 04:26 PM
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I successfully converted my F103 to Exotek side dampers instead of the OE friction damper! Small victories....
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Old 12-22-2017, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedySST
I successfully converted my F103 to Exotek side dampers instead of the OE friction damper! Small victories....
Pics?
Instructions?
Performance?
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Old 12-22-2017, 08:48 PM
  #13778  
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Originally Posted by SpeedySST
I successfully converted my F103 to Exotek side dampers instead of the OE friction damper! Small victories....
Pics!
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Old 12-22-2017, 09:30 PM
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I'll get them up tomorrow. Was almost late for work trying to finish up. It was fairly simple.
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Old 12-23-2017, 10:40 AM
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I have tested the f103 with the stock damper plates, single side damper and no damper. The best grip by far was with no damper. Generally speaking thicker dampening only reduces grip unless the car is bouncing in which of course it helps. Same goes for the centre shock I believe.

Also to improve the t—bar action you can use 2 o—rings, one inside the other on each hole. This will help the t—bar return.

To be honest the f103 can and still does win races against all the latest cars.

Things that help:
F104 diff
Graphite axle
Graphite lower deck
Removing damper plates altogther
Use 2 oring per hole t bar setup
Use carbon front suspension but cut standoffs and add spcers so you can adjust camber.

Things that dont work:
Ball type rear suspension
Link front suspension
Rear damper

Last edited by ixlr8nz; 12-23-2017 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 12-23-2017, 02:04 PM
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What I did is simply drill 2 holes on the original damper plate, then made 2 extensions off of the body posts to attach the Exotek dampers. I used 10k weight grease on the dampers. Also Shimizu makes or made o-rings for the F103 in soft, med and hard and included some double wide rings. I use the hard in the front and the pivot ball in the rear. I have not yet tested this. Also, to center the posts I ground down some front suspension bushings (top hat) and it fit perfectly inside the original hole in the top deck.
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Old 12-23-2017, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedySST
What I did is simply drill 2 holes on the original damper plate, then made 2 extensions off of the body posts to attach the Exotek dampers. I used 10k weight grease on the dampers. Also Shimizu makes or made o-rings for the F103 in soft, med and hard and included some double wide rings. I use the hard in the front and the pivot ball in the rear. I have not yet tested this. Also, to center the posts I ground down some front suspension bushings (top hat) and it fit perfectly inside the original hole in the top deck.
So if you wanted more rear grip, remove the pivot ball as this raises the roll centre reducing grip, + remove the damper and you will see a big increse in rear traction

Btw other thing you can do is remove the rear suspension mount and mount the shock directy to the motor mount. Also you would need to turn your front shock mount 180 degrees and maybe dependig the shock, readjust the shock length.
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Old 12-23-2017, 03:24 PM
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I wasn't really looking for more rear grip. I just wanted to see if it would work. Worse comes to worse, I'll put the old damper plate back on but now the center shock is not influenced by the damper plates. if it does work, I have a better place to mount the transponder! Also the pivot ball prevents the hole from enlarging on the flex plate and those aren't exactly getting easier to find if I need one.
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Old 12-23-2017, 03:33 PM
  #13784  
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/479236...posted-public/


Check out the suspension in the photo above of my car.

BTW those T-Bars are readily available and very very cheap! i have hacked several for F1 different projects. Another mod, I am planning to do over xmas, is to remove the battery doors, and use long body clips instead. This will be a big improvement in weight + also means the car is higher off the ground on each side, as I can see lots of rub marks. So more roll is possible without grounding out.
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Old 12-23-2017, 03:40 PM
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I went with a shorty lipo that I tape to the top deck instead of doors. Checking ebay, there are not a lot of those soft plates except in Japan and they are pretty cheap until you add up shipping. If I can prevent the destruction of the one I have, I will.
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