Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Great part you got there Michel

Regards Roy

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

that looks like f103 fronts. that the same a f104?

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

My biggest problem with the ride height is that the chassis sags and the belly of the car is lower than the front and rear ends.
I don't have problem setting front end at 4mm with the aluminum uprights on the king pins. When do you guys use these inserts?

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Shouldn't you be eliminating that sag (so setting middle chassis ride height) with the center shock preload? At least that's how I do it on my SP-1.

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

ive noticed that on my car. the belly is sagging a little. any way to cure that? i really dont like it. i want it to be flat. but ill deal if theres not a cure. the car goes into the development shop today to get a new rear aero (diffuser) package and possibly a motor swap. ive been messing with gearing since i changed from a 95 to a 97 spur and picked up a bunch of acceleration and top speed so i may stay with the current engine package and test the gearing before i change from the black motor to the red motor.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

In fact, I have recently switched from a softer center spring to a Haaard spring because it feels better. Like Mark explained to me, stiffer center shock is better on carpet since there is a lot of traction the car will have less longitudinal flex during acceleration. However, my f104x1 chassis is made of fiber reinforced plastic which is a lot more flexible than carbon fiber. Therefore, it still sags.

Whether you use 95 or 97 you can change the pinion to get more low end. Are you keeping the pinion constant and changing the spur?
I am trying different 21.5 motors as well.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

Adjust the center spring preloaded to set the center ride height. A stiffer spring will reduce forward bite and increase front grip under acceleration. I generally run my t-bar car @ 4.5r/4.25f with new tires and set the center spring so that the chassis and pod are in a straight line. A slight dip at the center will reduce/ slow weight shift to the rear under braking and tepe will have the opposite effect.

Mark

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

yes ed, i changed just the spur. now i have dropped one tooth on the pinion and will see how that goes. not too much ratio change but it felt so much better at the last race. ill try just the gear change then swap motors out..

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

Yep. My chassis is set flat with ride heights very similar to yours. But the sagging makes the middle of the car barely clear 4.0mm limit.


You will have to buy more pinion gears. When we race at Timezone we run something like 2.5 FDR

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

i have more pinions. ill be ok. cant wait to try tz. be fun going really fast.
do they use the big long straight? i looked at the pics for the grand prix but it only looks like they use only part of the track or do they use the whole thing?

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

at the NWAC race we used the long back straight. They got real small real quick and the turn off the straight is a bitch to sight properly for the entry.

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

yeah i bet. looking at the photos is does look like quite a distance to try to judge.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

When you go off track, you get stuck in the grass and you have to wait for a corner marshal to put the car back on the pavement.

Fortunately, that is my home club so I will get more practice before the big races.

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

yeah as soon as i get the bus fixed im going to have to come down for a couple dates to get some pre runs in.

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

sneak peek at the new aero package.