1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
#6256
I think Tamiya just shipped this kit with whatever they standardly ship all their F1's with in terms of gearing. It's just not the right combo. I'll see what my LHS has for spur options.
#6257
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
My Tamiya Wolf WR1 seems to be getting better, but I think I need to change the gearing. It's a standard silver can then a 14T pinion and a 63T spur. That's stock and per the manual.
The back tires on the Wolf are big and I think that may be causing it to be sluggish. They are much bigger than those weenie tires the other F1 guys are using (kidding!). They are 65mm tall/diameter. How does that compare to what the rest of you are using?
The back tires on the Wolf are big and I think that may be causing it to be sluggish. They are much bigger than those weenie tires the other F1 guys are using (kidding!). They are 65mm tall/diameter. How does that compare to what the rest of you are using?
#6258
#6259
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
How many of you balance the rear pod of your F1 car?
The reason I ask is last night I stumbled upon rccartips website (very helpful) and noticed a picture of two spikes balancing a F1 rear pod. I decided to take it upon myself to do the same with my f103 rear pod. Now, its not a standard read pod nor are the components being used. The rear pod is Yeah Racing one piece aluminum motor pod, the axle is a Kawada ball differential unit.
I came to discover that the pods (non-drive side) needed 28g's to balance the pod effectively. Yikes! That's a lot of weight IMO. However, it kills two birds with one stone by balancing the pod but also situating more weight to the rear axle.
Also, I decided to look at the front suspension springs and noticed one spring was larger than the other. I do remember someone on here posting about front springs tending to collapse or stretch resulting in a tweaked chassis. I assume during a crash the coils got damaged or very well it might of been defective.
The reason I ask is last night I stumbled upon rccartips website (very helpful) and noticed a picture of two spikes balancing a F1 rear pod. I decided to take it upon myself to do the same with my f103 rear pod. Now, its not a standard read pod nor are the components being used. The rear pod is Yeah Racing one piece aluminum motor pod, the axle is a Kawada ball differential unit.
I came to discover that the pods (non-drive side) needed 28g's to balance the pod effectively. Yikes! That's a lot of weight IMO. However, it kills two birds with one stone by balancing the pod but also situating more weight to the rear axle.
Also, I decided to look at the front suspension springs and noticed one spring was larger than the other. I do remember someone on here posting about front springs tending to collapse or stretch resulting in a tweaked chassis. I assume during a crash the coils got damaged or very well it might of been defective.
#6260
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Springs collapse quite a bit. It's worth changing them if you even suspect they are bad.
As far as the balance, that's probably why the F104X1 had a counterweight on the axle. I used to always run 14g on the left corner of my pod on the 103 after a guy pointed out how off the pods were.
As far as the balance, that's probably why the F104X1 had a counterweight on the axle. I used to always run 14g on the left corner of my pod on the 103 after a guy pointed out how off the pods were.
#6261
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Looks like there is a new body on the horizon.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58559
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58559
#6262
Boxy nose, but very cool!
#6263
I'm new to F1 racing. Can you guys point me towards a relatviely inexpensive body choice? I'm happy to paint it. Most 1/10 scale bodies are about $25 for touring cars. The F1's seem much more than that ($40-$60). I just want simple.
The new McAllister Indy body is about the least expensive I've seen: http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page482.htm
The new McAllister Indy body is about the least expensive I've seen: http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page482.htm
#6264
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
I'm new to F1 racing. Can you guys point me towards a relatviely inexpensive body choice? I'm happy to paint it. Most 1/10 scale bodies are about $25 for touring cars. The F1's seem much more than that ($40-$60). I just want simple.
The new McAllister Indy body is about the least expensive I've seen: http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page482.htm
The new McAllister Indy body is about the least expensive I've seen: http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page482.htm
#6266
Any good sources besides Tamiya and McAllister. I'd like to get the standard McClaren/Honda body that was so common, but I don't see those in stock anywhere.
#6268
Ya, sorry, I should have stated that. That's the REAL Ferrari F2012!
#6270
I'm new to F1 racing. Can you guys point me towards a relatviely inexpensive body choice? I'm happy to paint it. Most 1/10 scale bodies are about $25 for touring cars. The F1's seem much more than that ($40-$60). I just want simple.
The new McAllister Indy body is about the least expensive I've seen: http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page482.htm
The new McAllister Indy body is about the least expensive I've seen: http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page482.htm
The body choices depend on which platform you're talking about. If you're looking at narrow chassis (F104), there are really only 3 major bodies people run (in order of popularity):
- Tamiya F60
- Tamiya McLaren
- Tamiya F104 body
3Racing also released a new one not too long ago which is inexpensive (but you'll need to get wings separately): http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4437
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...08&s_maker_id=
The best sources for bodies in the US are TQ RC Racing and F1paintlab