Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I just built mine from scratch. Got most of the parts from BP SHADOW.

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

I'll probably be doing the same. I have a front end with the metal balls and ti pins, just gotta get everything else. Glad the kit is fairly inexpensive.

fleetmaster

iTrader: (16)

No, I'm able to move the kingpin off centre , within the steering block.

Thanks RobK

texastc

iTrader: (2)

I have the F1R and the F1 Ultra. If Exotek comes out with another one, I will have it too.

I used spare parts from my F109 and whatnot to build both of mine. Still never had a Tamiya car. I do want one though.

macavant

iTrader: (65)

Completed the re-livery on my F201 today. Kudos to BPShadow - another awesome decal set from F1Paintlabs. CF pattern body left intact.

Here is the Ferrari - back to the dominant days of the F2004:









I used a different media for the front / rear wings with this project. Instead of plastic paint (like my other cars); I applied airplane repair vinyl film on the surface prior to applying the decals. The vinyl is self adhesive and comes in a variety of colors. It is about the same thickness as MonoKote film. I ran the F201 on the track and it sustained a rollover and an incident with the barrier.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

SEKSIE

Kevin CBR

iTrader: (11)

I have for sale what started life as an F103RM but has all the hop-ups of the 15th Anniversary including the carbon lower chassis and long upper carbon upper deck. Car was formidable as an F1 on foams and a Le Mans car on rubber. Selling the roller with the Tamiya F1 and Le Mans body with rubber and foam tires. Cuda knows the car and can attest to how quick it was.

Panda

ShadowAu

iTrader: (7)

Anyone tried f103 sized wheels/tyres with a 180mm width car?... I want to try the narrower car but have heaps of wheels and tyres around including a set of the narrower f104 rears so only need to find something to run on the front

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

All you'd need to do is shorten the rear axle and diff side hub, then the fatties would squeeze thru the 180mm tech box.
The fronts will fit right on using the correct bearing

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Panda's car is the real deal, the "car" is quick.

Commission check can be sent to [email protected]. paypal accepted.

Redwings

iTrader: (4)

Bro, Now that I see you f201, I have a guy in Canada that want to sell his for like $75.00, I should grab it. Do you still run yours and if so, what's inside?

terry.sc

Replaced mine with Tamiya low friction pads as they are machined rather than moulded and then run them dry or with various damper greases depending on how much grip there is on the surface I'm running on. If you need as much rear grip as possible run them dry with no preload on the springs. The same with the front kingpins, adding grease will dampen the front end.

The pivot ball will let the rear end rock freely from side to side with the only control of the cation being the grease used in the friction pads. The o-ring setup isn't as free but it can be easily adjusted to tune the rear end. I race on carpet so the rear end is loosened for weekly club racing but screwed down almost solid for big meetings with much higher grip. The ball setup is much more loose so good for generating more rear grip especially on bumpy surfaces.

The carbon reinforced one is stiffer, but won't make a difference to the handling. The reason I always run the carbon one is that it's much stronger and needs a much harder hit to break it compared with the plastic one.

If you need more overall grip then ditch the full length top deck and carbon chassis and replace them with the standard fibreglass ones. Generally the change of chassis will change overall grip, and the full length top deck will understeer more than the standard one.

Can't help with gearing, we run 21.5T here and running between 40 and 60mmpr depending on the track.

Kevin CBR

iTrader: (11)

The "car" is quick ? Commission check just reduced Cuda !

Panda

terry.sc

Running in the UK nationals on foams various chassis (F109, F103, Roche, etc.) qualified within a few seconds of each other, apart from TQ which was easily won with a wide Exotek F1Ultra. I should also point out that it took a lot of time to get the F1Ultra handling right and it only really came good at the last rounds. The easy option is a Tamiya F103, not much tuning can be done with it but it works fine straight out of the box.

For foams my preference are 25 shore rears with 35 or 38 shore fronts depending on the track. From Tamiya I like the HBR soft rear and HBR medium front for lower grip carpet and Zac Project 25/37 shore tyres for high grip.
The standard Tamiya 54135/54136 premounts are pretty popular as well.

RonF

iTrader: (9)

Anyone interested in those stepped 2012 noses might rethink for next year. F1 in 2013 will allow panels and new rules to alleviate the platypus nose. FWIW...