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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

Old 09-30-2019, 08:27 AM
  #14911  
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Looks great. But good luck on black carpet. Lol.
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sonic31
Not my best work but half lazy and 1 Haas decal sheet later ...
Looks really good. People WILL inadvertently hit you though, kinda like a stealth mode. Might not see you til last second. Could work in your favor sneaking up on someone though?!?

I used to run 2004 McLaren Mercedes, got tired of getting into accidents cus no one saw me coming.
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Old 10-01-2019, 05:32 PM
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Going to build my first F1 Rc this weekend. Always wanted a Tamiya Tyrrell P34, made a spur of the moment booze fueled purchase of ond this last weekend. Should arrive just in time to build it this weekend. Really looking forward to it! Shame there are zero tracks near me. It will only see parking lot duty.

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Old 10-05-2019, 08:47 PM
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Thanks to our friends in Japan great shots



What chassis is this ???


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Old 10-08-2019, 09:24 AM
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I would like to ask guys again. How much weight is your car, generally? I believe UF1 class regulates minimum 1,000 grams weight, but mine (F104X1) is over 1,250 grams now. I'm using general size Lipo (about 280 grams) and Tamiya heavy body, but I think it is too heavy.
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Old 10-08-2019, 09:26 AM
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1065g. Rule is 1050, but there's some janky scales out there at tech, sometimes.
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by asake
I would like to ask guys again. How much weight is your car, generally? I believe UF1 class regulates minimum 1,000 grams weight, but mine (F104X1) is over 1,250 grams now. I'm using general size Lipo (about 280 grams) and Tamiya heavy body, but I think it is too heavy.
I'm also 1060 with a 6100 shorty pack for the 15 minute UF1 races. I think the new 1020gr Uf1 rule is unnecessarily light. 1050gr is the ideal weight.
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Old 10-08-2019, 01:17 PM
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You can get to the point of being to light, eventually the tire loading wont be right... whats next norrowing tires to maintain grip??? I dont think this is an answer to anything. Short of driving people to buy those flimsy ultralight bodies... yourgoing toend up with a car that feels too "floaty"!
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Old 10-08-2019, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by asake
I would like to ask guys again. How much weight is your car, generally? I believe UF1 class regulates minimum 1,000 grams weight, but mine (F104X1) is over 1,250 grams now. I'm using general size Lipo (about 280 grams) and Tamiya heavy body, but I think it is too heavy.
My XRay wieghs in at about 1020 before I add 30 grams of lead to meet 1050.
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Old 10-08-2019, 08:06 PM
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When tightening the differential on an F103, how do you know when it's set correctly? Currently, my P34 is slow to take off. I can hear the motor spinning excessively before the differential gets a bite. Should it be lighting up the tires or is a bit of a delay normal?
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Old 10-08-2019, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 1/8 IC Fan
You can get to the point of being to light, eventually the tire loading wont be right... whats next norrowing tires to maintain grip??? I dont think this is an answer to anything. Short of driving people to buy those flimsy ultralight bodies... yourgoing toend up with a car that feels too "floaty"!
Should I buy new light weight F1 car??? Not only light weight body...
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Old 10-08-2019, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by A_Locomotive
When tightening the differential on an F103, how do you know when it's set correctly? Currently, my P34 is slow to take off. I can hear the motor spinning excessively before the differential gets a bite. Should it be lighting up the tires or is a bit of a delay normal?
This is a general statement and should be taken as a guideline since we can't be there in person to show you exactly what we mean.

Here goes, ball diff should be tight enough that when you hold both rear tires (1 in each hand), push the spur gear with your thumb to get it to slip. If it slips, tighten 1/4 turn. Repeat until the spur won't slip when you push it with your thumb. Now you are in the ball park, adjust by 1/8 a turn +/- to get the car to take off from a dead launch without kicking sideways. At this point it is a preference and only you can tell when it's right. Also, just cus it seems right on the bench, the only true way to test it is on track.

Now drive the car for a run or 2, might need to tighten an 1/8th turn as the diff breaks in and finds its set. Typically, asphalt is looser with a bit of slip and high grip carpet can be almost locked. Good luck.
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Old 10-08-2019, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by asake
Should I buy new light weight F1 car??? Not only light weight body...
Just try a lighter shorty pack and body first. Your car may be just fine but if not then at least you will have a proper race battery and body for the future
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeR
Just try a lighter shorty pack and body first. Your car may be just fine but if not then at least you will have a proper race battery and body for the future
Thank you for the advice. What brand of battery and body recommend? I apologise for asking a lot of questions. I weighted Tamiya McLaren 4/24 body, and it has 146g with f, r wing. Thank you.
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by asake
Thank you for the advice. What brand of battery and body recommend? I apologise for asking a lot of questions. I weighted Tamiya McLaren 4/24 body, and it has 146g with f, r wing. Thank you.
Shorty Lipo- anything from 4500-6000mah is good for 5-10 minute races;
https://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=shorty+pack

For the F104x pretty much any body should work since it is narrow. Typical race body weighs about 40gr;
https://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=f1+body

Your Mp4 wings are ok to use for now (as long as they don't scrape the ground-bad). Heavy wings tend to last longer than light wings.
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