2740Likes1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
12-23-2017, 03:43 PM
Tech Addict
12-23-2017, 03:44 PM
Tech Addict
I also use the shorty lipo. You can modify the standard doors to work. Look at the 1st picture I posted.
12-23-2017, 04:31 PM
Yeah I thought about modifying the doors but tape was much faster until I have to pull the battery out every run to charge in a lipo sack.
12-23-2017, 05:02 PM
I don't know if anyone cares, but here's my F103/4 that I run at my local outdoor asphalt track. It holds all the track records at the track, against a fleet of newer Xrays, Associated F6's, Tamiyas, Exoteks, and others.
I call it an F103/4 because it has an Exotek/F104 front end on it in order to meet the 190mm rule we run (on rubber tires). The shorty battery is taped to the upper deck like mentioned above, and only needed to add some spacers to raise the top deck up so that the t-bar won't touch the bottom of the battery. I charge the car in a large lipo sack that I can put the whole car into, so I don't remove the battery.
I've used the soft t-bar on it, but also have used modified stock, stiffer t-bars by grinding it thinner on a belt sander, with a slight taper from front to back. I make it just a touch thicker than the Soft t-bar. Works great and I can't tell the difference. I also use the pivot ball on the rear t-bar mount, but I bolt the front solid using a 2mm thick washer. This keeps the holes from being gouged out and it still flexes just fine.
The car has more forward bite than anything else I've run, including an F6, Exotek F1R, F1R2, and F1R3, and a CRC WTF1 FC-16. I keep trying the new cars to see if they're faster than the 'Frankenstein' F103/4 I've built, but so far the F103/4 is still faster and a TON easier to drive aggresively. Which is important when you need to pass someone!
These old cars can still be competitive, especially on the surface they were designed for!
Mark C.
edit: RCTech file uploader isn't working right now...I'll post pics when it decides to function properly again...
I call it an F103/4 because it has an Exotek/F104 front end on it in order to meet the 190mm rule we run (on rubber tires). The shorty battery is taped to the upper deck like mentioned above, and only needed to add some spacers to raise the top deck up so that the t-bar won't touch the bottom of the battery. I charge the car in a large lipo sack that I can put the whole car into, so I don't remove the battery.
I've used the soft t-bar on it, but also have used modified stock, stiffer t-bars by grinding it thinner on a belt sander, with a slight taper from front to back. I make it just a touch thicker than the Soft t-bar. Works great and I can't tell the difference. I also use the pivot ball on the rear t-bar mount, but I bolt the front solid using a 2mm thick washer. This keeps the holes from being gouged out and it still flexes just fine.
The car has more forward bite than anything else I've run, including an F6, Exotek F1R, F1R2, and F1R3, and a CRC WTF1 FC-16. I keep trying the new cars to see if they're faster than the 'Frankenstein' F103/4 I've built, but so far the F103/4 is still faster and a TON easier to drive aggresively. Which is important when you need to pass someone!
These old cars can still be competitive, especially on the surface they were designed for!
Mark C.
edit: RCTech file uploader isn't working right now...I'll post pics when it decides to function properly again...
Last edited by scirocco14; 12-23-2017 at 05:23 PM.
12-23-2017, 05:40 PM
Tech Addict
https://www.flickr.com/photos/479236...posted-public/
Heres my 190mm car work in progress. Btw i found a way to use the standard f103 lower suspension to do 180/190mm wide. You just use the holes that mount the top arm as the kingpin holes
Heres my 190mm car work in progress. Btw i found a way to use the standard f103 lower suspension to do 180/190mm wide. You just use the holes that mount the top arm as the kingpin holes
Last edited by ixlr8nz; 12-23-2017 at 06:26 PM.
12-23-2017, 06:03 PM
I had a 15th anniversary F103, but sold it for my F104pro, and now I'm going to mod it to Exotek F1R3....
12-23-2017, 06:25 PM
Tech Addict
Also the Tamiya F103 is the New Zealand champion in 2016 & 2017 up against a big field of cars (around 25-30). Mostly Xray. The F103 that won this years nationals was close to stock. Only minor mods. It does make the Xray seem a little silly. As always tyres make all the difference depending on what your local rules allow.
12-23-2017, 06:53 PM
12-23-2017, 06:57 PM
...The F103 was / is awesome on asphalt, as was the F101 and F102.
... no one put more effort into the F103 than TRG, and their dampner setup is spot on.
... no one put more effort into the F103 than TRG, and their dampner setup is spot on.
12-23-2017, 07:02 PM
This year a bunch of new F6's showed up and those guys just can't figure out how a 25 yr old car can out run them. But to be fair it's hard to find the F103's anymore. And it requires the front suspension mod, which means finding the parts to build the f104 style front end. And find an F103RM for the rear pivot mount for the t-bar. It's just easier for them to buy the new F1 kits instead of literally building a car out of bunch of different cars. Which is OK by me...as long as they don't outlaw my car!
Mark C
12-23-2017, 11:05 PM
Here's my F103GT build. I use a battery mounting system like the F103 anniversary edition. I like the damper setup, I may try doing the same thing.
12-27-2017, 04:10 PM
T bars make more traction than links, and work better on asphalt in most cases. Also, the F103 is much shorter than anything based on a modern car and should steer a lot harder even in 190mm trim.
The FN Cuda still has his T bar F104 working, and the big difference between that and an F103 is the length.
The FN Cuda still has his T bar F104 working, and the big difference between that and an F103 is the length.
12-27-2017, 05:07 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/479236...posted-public/
Heres my 190mm car work in progress. Btw i found a way to use the standard f103 lower suspension to do 180/190mm wide. You just use the holes that mount the top arm as the kingpin holes
Heres my 190mm car work in progress. Btw i found a way to use the standard f103 lower suspension to do 180/190mm wide. You just use the holes that mount the top arm as the kingpin holes
12-27-2017, 05:27 PM
T bars make more traction than links, and work better on asphalt in most cases. Also, the F103 is much shorter than anything based on a modern car and should steer a lot harder even in 190mm trim.
The FN Cuda still has his T bar F104 working, and the big difference between that and an F103 is the length.
The FN Cuda still has his T bar F104 working, and the big difference between that and an F103 is the length.
The F103 is ALWAYS fastest off the line at the start, which is a HUGE advantage getting to turn 1.
Mark C.
12-27-2017, 05:54 PM
When I used to run the F103, what helped a lot was tilting the t bar back. I would make the front of the t bar higher than the rear, like anti squat. This was on foam, but it could help you.
