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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

Old 03-20-2017, 04:14 AM
  #12796  
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I am running an F104 (narrow 180mm) with regulated Ride wheels. I only run a very fast low grip tarmac track (34/60 gearing). I can make the car wide like the F103 (200mm) using F103 front parts and some diy bits on the rear axle. Would making wide help? I am looking for grip everywhere...

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:27 PM
  #12797  
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How heavy are your cars ready to race without any additional weight?
And if you put additional weight - where do you place it: more foreward or backwards?
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:49 PM
  #12798  
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I don't know my car's weight, I only add weights to balance the car left-to-right and set it on the tweak board.

Hguo
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:41 PM
  #12799  
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Originally Posted by HugoW
I am running an F104 (narrow 180mm) with regulated Ride wheels. I only run a very fast low grip tarmac track (34/60 gearing). I can make the car wide like the F103 (200mm) using F103 front parts and some diy bits on the rear axle. Would making wide help? I am looking for grip everywhere...

Cheers,

Hugo
Hi.. I race in similar conditions.. I would say a wider car will be more stable.. however you are likely to lose steering and gain understeer.. great for getting on power etc but on a technical track you may suffer.. ride fronts tend to be hard too.. which doesn't help with steering.. also they are temperature sensitive.. ride R1s need upward of 20degrees C to 'switch on' and the XRs will need high 20s to 30deg C to work well on tarmac.. never under estimate this with rubber tyres! Pit shimizu 575 rear are great at cooler temps .
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:27 PM
  #12800  
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Originally Posted by AlexPate
If 21.5 3.3-3.4
If 25.5 no idea.
Lol
I run at the banana raceway in Richardson, TX and we all use a 2.6-2.8 gear ratio with 25.5 motors. Depends on how tight the layout is but that should get you in the right ballpark. Don't crank your timing. Oddly enough, we have found that some setups like less timing. Watch your motor temp!
Look for a free gear ratio calculator for your phone. I have one called "gears" and it even allows you to save your setup.
Hope that helps.
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Old 03-22-2017, 05:20 AM
  #12801  
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@Tamabuchi Corp; thanks. The track is not very technical, here's a fish-eye lense pic:



The long straight is a lot more straight, the lenze is changing the view a bit. The blue rail at the bottom of the pic is actually one straight part. It's 320 metres long, 4,6 to 5,5 metres wide. It is also used for large scale racers. There is talk about a new higher grip surface in the near future, but so far the grip is low and there is a lot of dirt coming from the off road track next to it.

I didn't know about the tire temps, that is a good thing to watch. I usually heat the tires before racing, but on a practice / tuning day I usually don't.

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 03-22-2017, 05:37 AM
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How long are people heating their tyres
I also race 21.5t TC so I normally reserve the warmers for that. There's only one race that divides f1 and my qualifying group for 21.5t TC
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Old 03-22-2017, 05:41 AM
  #12803  
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Similar problem, I race at a local club and sometimes there is not enough time between heats. I clean my tires, apply the grip enhancer (JapSap in my case, full rear tire and inner half front tire) and hope to cook them for 40 minutes at 55 degrees C.

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:24 AM
  #12804  
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20mn at 60C
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:34 AM
  #12805  
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Originally Posted by HugoW
@Tamabuchi Corp; thanks. The track is not very technical, here's a fish-eye lense pic:



The long straight is a lot more straight, the lenze is changing the view a bit. The blue rail at the bottom of the pic is actually one straight part. It's 320 metres long, 4,6 to 5,5 metres wide. It is also used for large scale racers. There is talk about a new higher grip surface in the near future, but so far the grip is low and there is a lot of dirt coming from the off road track next to it.

I didn't know about the tire temps, that is a good thing to watch. I usually heat the tires before racing, but on a practice / tuning day I usually don't.

Cheers,

Hugo
Looks much better than the surfaces I get to use! I've no experience with tyre warming, seems like it wouldn't last long in a race? We don't have tyre rules so we use what suits the weather.. which is usually Pit soft front and rears.. I kinda think tyre rules are tough on outdoor low grip tracks.. each compound has an optimum temp working window.. so your pretty screwed if you have to use ride XRs at low temps.. if I was you I'd have some fun practicing with other compounds.. at least you can just have fun
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Old 03-23-2017, 03:31 AM
  #12806  
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Hi,

This year we have changed in the Uk our spec tyre for outdoor racing and yesterday it was my first time with the car and I struggled a bit to set up the car. New tyres are Sweep hard fronts and super soft rears. I am running an Exotek F1R3 with transverse battery.

I started with a standard outdoor setup and the car was undrivable, too much steering. I started to make changed to remove steering and win some traction.
I soften side springs (Yokomo purple), used lighter fluid on the tubes(10K), light fluid on the shock (400 cSt), soft centre spring (Tamiya yellow fluo), hardest front spring I had Ride gold (2.8).
At the end of the day the car was perfect on the infield, but on the fast sweeper it was suddenly diffing it out. I tried to tighten more the diff and the result improve a bit, but it was still impossible to not make the car diff out in the middle of the corner.
As I was using transverse battery, will going into in-line battery resolve the situation? Will this reduce the diff ount thing? As well I was using the side spring on the inside position, moving them to over the link will help? maybe I was too soft on the springs - tube relation?

Cheers
Javier
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Old 03-23-2017, 04:26 AM
  #12807  
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Originally Posted by jimjav
Hi,

This year we have changed in the Uk our spec tyre for outdoor racing and yesterday it was my first time with the car and I struggled a bit to set up the car. New tyres are Sweep hard fronts and super soft rears. I am running an Exotek F1R3 with transverse battery.

I started with a standard outdoor setup and the car was undrivable, too much steering. I started to make changed to remove steering and win some traction.
I soften side springs (Yokomo purple), used lighter fluid on the tubes(10K), light fluid on the shock (400 cSt), soft centre spring (Tamiya yellow fluo), hardest front spring I had Ride gold (2.8).
At the end of the day the car was perfect on the infield, but on the fast sweeper it was suddenly diffing it out. I tried to tighten more the diff and the result improve a bit, but it was still impossible to not make the car diff out in the middle of the corner.
As I was using transverse battery, will going into in-line battery resolve the situation? Will this reduce the diff ount thing? As well I was using the side spring on the inside position, moving them to over the link will help? maybe I was too soft on the springs - tube relation?

Cheers
Javier
I had a similar issue with my car on the faster corners. I was running the softest side springs I had, I changed to the hardest side springs I have and this really helped. I think the softest springs collapse too quickly and the car doesn't 'dig in' mid corner if that makes sense lol

Apart from that my set up is pretty much the same as yours (I have a different chassis also)..

My side tubes have 12k, main damper has 450k (lowest i own) my main shock spring is the kit (softest), front springs depend on track layout..

what is strange is my set up for outdoor asphalt goes against most of the instruction book recommendations lol

I always use transverse battery alignment as this makes it much easier to change the battery in my chassis. I also believe this to be best for outdoors but some may disagree.. its like the F103 arrangement which can't be a bad thing!
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Old 03-23-2017, 04:32 AM
  #12808  
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Originally Posted by jimjav
Hi,

This year we have changed in the Uk our spec tyre for outdoor racing and yesterday it was my first time with the car and I struggled a bit to set up the car. New tyres are Sweep hard fronts and super soft rears. I am running an Exotek F1R3 with transverse battery.

I started with a standard outdoor setup and the car was undrivable, too much steering. I started to make changed to remove steering and win some traction.
I soften side springs (Yokomo purple), used lighter fluid on the tubes(10K), light fluid on the shock (400 cSt), soft centre spring (Tamiya yellow fluo), hardest front spring I had Ride gold (2.8).
At the end of the day the car was perfect on the infield, but on the fast sweeper it was suddenly diffing it out. I tried to tighten more the diff and the result improve a bit, but it was still impossible to not make the car diff out in the middle of the corner.
As I was using transverse battery, will going into in-line battery resolve the situation? Will this reduce the diff ount thing? As well I was using the side spring on the inside position, moving them to over the link will help? maybe I was too soft on the springs - tube relation?

Cheers
Javier
Try to put 20k oil in the side tubes. This alone should help a lot. Anyway the sweep rear tires have too hard side wall to perform sufficiently well.
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Old 03-23-2017, 06:20 AM
  #12809  
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Originally Posted by sbd
Try to put 20k oil in the side tubes. This alone should help a lot. Anyway the sweep rear tires have too hard side wall to perform sufficiently well.
I guess this too would have a similar effect as putting a stiffer spring in.. however on race day i prefer to change springs rather than oils, its just easier which ever you choose just make sure you change ONE thing at a time..
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Old 03-23-2017, 06:44 AM
  #12810  
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i agree with Tamabuchi Corp , softer spring might collapse. You must use harder side springs.
if you want more rear traction , you can also raise the front pivot ball of your central damper by 1 or 2 mm (or lower the rear pivot ball)
you can also lower the rear ride height , it helps
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