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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

Old 04-15-2013, 08:28 PM
  #7771  
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Originally Posted by pokiou
I saw the video, the guy was driving it out of control deliberately. turning early, over powering. All that stuff a gyro wouldn't fix. All of a sudden his hitting the apex on every corner and smooth lines.

I just don't see it helping to be honest. I'm sorry.
Since you have full mastery over your car, it probably won't help. Before you dismiss it, maybe try it out? You could always sell it to a heli guy if it doesn't work for you, they love'em. just saying...
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:38 PM
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haha i love it in my quad copter :P works good. I haven't mastered my car at all but i know it doesn't need a gyro. Once you get used stuff like that, it makes it harder when not using them.

I could be wrong which is not a rare thing lol. If you do try it. Do a few laps with it off and then on, just don't do what they dude was doing, exaggerating alittle.
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:17 PM
  #7773  
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I think that part of the allure of F1 is that it's a driver's class, just like the full scale version. Driving an F1 requires your complete attention. I guarauntee that if you take the time to master the skills required to drive a 2wd F1, it will make you a better all-around driver.
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:28 PM
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i believe that.. I've heard from people that are good @ touring, come to f1 and have to relearn everything, then go back to touring and end up dominating.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:23 AM
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Look at the world champion drivers that kill in TC. Come to F1 and levels everything out.
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunderbunny
I think that part of the allure of F1 is that it's a driver's class, just like the full scale version. Driving an F1 requires your complete attention. I guarauntee that if you take the time to master the skills required to drive a 2wd F1, it will make you a better all-around driver.
Says tha guy with a gyro on his V2 and inside his hearing aid to keep his head straight

He is right though F1 is the 2wd buggy of on road, you cant bulldog pass and it takes finesse with the throttle!

Jones there is bit of a storm brewing for the Ultimate VTA event, lets just say that there are some flights being booked
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:06 AM
  #7777  
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Anything new going on with the VF1 cars? Haven't seen any posts lately from Ned or from wtcc. Anyone done any driving tests of these cars yet?
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Jones there is bit of a storm brewing for the Ultimate VTA event, lets just say that there are some flights being booked
For those that don't know MantisWorx is reffering to the Ultimate VTA championships scheculed for June 8th at Mikes Hobby shop in Dallas. This is planned as an annual event and 2013 is the inaugural event. F1 was also added to this event to make traveling for it more appealing to those that race both F1 and VTA.

All event information and event flyer can be found at: www.ultimatevta.com on-line sign up is also available at rccarcal.com. A link for the sign up can be found at ultimatevta.com. Race entry fee for the first year has been set at a very affordable $15.

Our F1 rules in Texas are a little more lax than some other regions. We stick to 21.5 blinky and rubber F1 tires tires but chassis design and width up to 205mm is fair game. What is the best design? Prove it at the UTAC
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:07 AM
  #7779  
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Just picked up a used Tamiya F104 chassis without a body. I would like to do a proper paint scheme either the Renault E20, the Renault/Lotus R31 or the Mercedes GP W03/W04 decals. Would the Ferrari F60 or F2012 be the body to use or would another body be better?
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Tracy B
Just picked up a used Tamiya F104 chassis without a body. I would like to do a proper paint scheme either the Renault E20, the Renault/Lotus R31 or the Mercedes GP W03/W04 decals. Would the Ferrari F60 or F2012 be the body to use or would another body be better?
F60 FTW!
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:09 AM
  #7781  
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Originally Posted by racer robert
For those that don't know MantisWorx is reffering to the Ultimate VTA championships scheculed for June 8th at Mikes Hobby shop in Dallas. This is planned as an annual event and 2013 is the inaugural event. F1 was also added to this event to make traveling for it more appealing to those that race both F1 and VTA.

All event information and event flyer can be found at: www.ultimatevta.com on-line sign up is also available at rccarcal.com. A link for the sign up can be found at ultimatevta.com. Race entry fee for the first year has been set at a very affordable $15.

Our F1 rules in Texas are a little more lax than some other regions. We stick to 21.5 blinky and rubber F1 tires tires but chassis design and width up to 205mm is fair game. What is the best design? Prove it at the UTAC
Racer Robert = Robert Jr.?

What tires work best at Mike's? Since it's open tire I'm assuming you run Pits? 571/572/575? What about tire traction, odorless or Paragon?
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Team Lotus
Anything new going on with the VF1 cars? Haven't seen any posts lately from Ned or from wtcc. Anyone done any driving tests of these cars yet?
Sorry, I was busy doing preparations for our club championship. The weather in Germany was sunny for the first time last sunday so I concentrated on my TC setup. Next week is our first race. After that I will try out my F160 and F104V2 and tell you how it was.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick Vessell
Racer Robert = Robert Jr.?

What tires work best at Mike's? Since it's open tire I'm assuming you run Pits? 571/572/575? What about tire traction, odorless or Paragon?
The go to tire at Mikes hobby shop is Pit Shimizu 572 and 574. The 571's work well but glaze on our carpet quickly and begin to push bad. The 574's stay clean as long as you stay out of the marbles. I also keep a set of the front 3 medium's in case traction gets really high but so far I have been able to keep traction rolls at bay through set up.

Our hobby shop recently became a Pit Shimizu Dealer and they only stock 572's and 574's for the F-104 wheeled cars as well as the F103 equivelent (R1hards and F3softs) for any of the wide cars like F113, F103, kyosho plazma etc.

Our track only allows black can Paragon for the traction compound. The smell is not bad since its a huge indoor complex with good ventalation, carpet track, dirt track and HUGE hobby shop all under the same roof.

And I am not Robert Jr. just Robert Bremer.

Who is Robert Jr.?

Last edited by racer robert; 04-16-2013 at 04:24 PM. Reason: corrected tire part numbers
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:32 PM
  #7784  
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Originally Posted by racer robert
The go to tire at Mikes hobby shop is Pit Shimizu 571 and 574. The 572's work well but glaze on our carpet quickly and begin to push bad. The 574's stay clean as long as you stay out of the marbles. I also keep a set of the front 3 medium's in case traction gets really high but so far I have been able to keep traction rolls at bay through set up.

Our hobby shop recently became a Pit Shimizu Dealer and they only stock 571's and 574's for the F-104 wheeled cars as well as the F103 equivelent (R1hards and F3softs) for any of the wide cars like F113, F103, kyosho plazma etc.

Our track only allows black can Paragon for the traction compound. The smell is not bad since its a huge indoor complex with good ventalation, carpet track, dirt track and HUGE hobby shop all under the same roof.

And I am not Robert Jr. just Robert Bremer.

Who is Robert Jr.?
Thanks for the tire and traction info. Robert Jr. was a racer I knew when I lived down there for a couple of years. I've been to Mike's, know the owner, know Mr. Dumas next door too. You guys are spoiled down there with that facility. Wish I had one up here like that.
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:04 PM
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Agreed, we are spoiled. And best of all, I only live 10 minutes away!!
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