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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

Old 04-14-2021, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan the Man
Was the Team Associated RC10F6 front end based on the F104, same screw holes etc?
Yes, but the guys that ran the RC10F6 at our club track swapped out the front end for the CRC if I recall correctly.....reliability "issues"

Tamiya (F103,F104), CRC WTF1, and RC10F6 shared the similar hole pattern and leading edge for the front end.

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Old 04-14-2021, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by simple
Yes, but the guys that ran the RC10F6 at our club track swapped out the front end for the CRC if I recall correctly.....reliability "issues"

Tamiya (F103,F104), CRC WTF1, and RC10F6 shared the similar hole pattern and leading edge for the front end.

Thanks for that. I've been looking for an Exotek F104 front end conversion without success, but I've found the Exotek one for the RC10F6.

Might pull the trigger then on it.
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Old 04-14-2021, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan the Man
Thanks for that. I've been looking for an Exotek F104 front end conversion without success, but I've found the Exotek one for the RC10F6.

Might pull the trigger then on it.
I don't know if you remember the Xpress Roadrunner cars, they had an adjustable caster front end. The shackle thing that slid over the camber link works perfectly to make a fake exotek front end with F104 parts. If there are any dusty old hobby shops in your country, they may have the parts.



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Old 04-15-2021, 12:36 PM
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nvm
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Old 04-19-2021, 06:48 AM
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This is a fantasy livery for a Tamiya F104 with a light Tamiya 2017 body & wings. I am still racing this car on black carpet and am having fun with it!

Tamiya paints with decals leftover from an HPI Ford focus rally car (https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/7412). Might detail the cockpit more, but since it is a race body it will get beat up. I might add the barge boards later, but was concerned about their durability.


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Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 04-19-2021 at 07:06 AM.
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Old 04-20-2021, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer
This is a fantasy livery for a Tamiya F104 with a light Tamiya 2017 body & wings. I am still racing this car on black carpet and am having fun with it!

Tamiya paints with decals leftover from an HPI Ford focus rally car (https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/7412). Might detail the cockpit more, but since it is a race body it will get beat up. I might add the barge boards later, but was concerned about their durability.


How many guys are you getting for F1? Might see if I can talk a few people into going out your way for a race or two. We are starting to build up a F1 class at Access hobbies in Springfield, OH. I think you have come out there before for the TCS, would be cool to have you guys come over again for some racing.
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Old 04-20-2021, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer
This is a fantasy livery for a Tamiya F104 with a light Tamiya 2017 body & wings. I am still racing this car on black carpet and am having fun with it!

Tamiya paints with decals leftover from an HPI Ford focus rally car (https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/7412). Might detail the cockpit more, but since it is a race body it will get beat up. I might add the barge boards later, but was concerned about their durability.


Originally Posted by JCarr
How many guys are you getting for F1? Might see if I can talk a few people into going out your way for a race or two. We are starting to build up a F1 class at Access hobbies in Springfield, OH. I think you have come out there before for the TCS, would be cool to have you guys come over again for some racing.
Yes, most definitely!! If you guys could make it out this Saturday that would be Awesome!! Next weekend, May 1rst, is the Von Perry GT Challenge and I believe that race is full on RC Signups. Also, I was looking at your race schedule on the website last night. We would love to come out and club race some F1 with you guys sometime soon but it would be kind of hard to make it out there on a Friday night (2 hours away). Do you guys race any Saturdays at all? Hope you guys can make it out soon....
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Old 04-20-2021, 09:46 AM
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Just back to F1 - used to run Tamiya cars with foam tires and silver cans many years ago. Got a Roche Evo2 and ran it last weekend. Unfortunately not a lot of practice time available, but the car was pretty good out of the box.

I'm looking for tuning advice - checked the XRay X1 helper sheet, and the 1/12 scale Wiki, but didn't see any pointers that clearly address my issue. It may be my driving style as well, I'm used to TCs and only have 5 or 6 runs on the car at this point.

On medium grip asphalt, the car pushes bad mid corner. Turn in is good - like a well set up touring car, but swings wide mid corner under power. Absolutely no oversteer at this point, even after I turned up my ESC throttle settings for the main.

I'm pretty much kit setup, with X Ray gold springs up front, original Pits 571 / 572 tires, front tires sauce 100%, 1mm droop front and back. 40K on side dampers. Ride height front to back is 4.6 / 5.0 / 4.8 mm. Front is 2 degrees camber and 1 degree toe out per side. Battery is all the way back. Montech F18 body / Montech front wing with 2 extra elements, X Ray optional rear wing.

Any pointers will be appreciated - our race schedule doesn't have a practice day until mid June, so any tuning has to be done on race day.

Thanks
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Old 04-20-2021, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by belewis01
Just back to F1 - used to run Tamiya cars with foam tires and silver cans many years ago. Got a Roche Evo2 and ran it last weekend. Unfortunately not a lot of practice time available, but the car was pretty good out of the box.

I'm looking for tuning advice - checked the XRay X1 helper sheet, and the 1/12 scale Wiki, but didn't see any pointers that clearly address my issue. It may be my driving style as well, I'm used to TCs and only have 5 or 6 runs on the car at this point.

On medium grip asphalt, the car pushes bad mid corner. Turn in is good - like a well set up touring car, but swings wide mid corner under power. Absolutely no oversteer at this point, even after I turned up my ESC throttle settings for the main.

I'm pretty much kit setup, with X Ray gold springs up front, original Pits 571 / 572 tires, front tires sauce 100%, 1mm droop front and back. 40K on side dampers. Ride height front to back is 4.6 / 5.0 / 4.8 mm. Front is 2 degrees camber and 1 degree toe out per side. Battery is all the way back. Montech F18 body / Montech front wing with 2 extra elements, X Ray optional rear wing.

Any pointers will be appreciated - our race schedule doesn't have a practice day until mid June, so any tuning has to be done on race day.

Thanks

Sounds like it could use more caster and/or lower front roll center.
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Old 04-20-2021, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeR
Sounds like it could use more caster and/or lower front roll center.
id suggest some more side spring pressure -- and play w/ and w/o dampener tubes connected. 40K is very thick.
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Old 04-20-2021, 12:50 PM
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Any lead on the nose? Sometimes it helps on power steering.

How is the ackermann? Looking from above, are the tie rods straight? Angled back?

Mike H points out you're pretty heavy on the tubes. If the track is like a 1/8 gas car track, that's ok. If it's normal 1/10 size, your car is probably not rotating enough.
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Old 04-20-2021, 01:17 PM
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also - what sort of surface is this belewis01?
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Old 04-20-2021, 03:31 PM
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1st of all - thank you all for your responses - I've wanted to run F1 for awhile, but held off until I got my TC groove back.

Originally Posted by MikeR
Sounds like it could use more caster and/or lower front roll center.
Castor is an easy change, was suggested at the track - at 6 degrees right now, can easily go 8.5 with stock parts, 11 with option parts

Originally Posted by hanulec
id suggest some more side spring pressure -- and play w/ and w/o dampener tubes connected. 40K is very thick.
So, right now I believe there is no side spring pressure - I think the adjuster set screws need to be changed out to longer screws. This was pointed out Sunday, not sure if it's a builder error or a manual error. As to dampener tubes - will try it disconnected, also have 20K and 30K in stock and that is a quick change.

Originally Posted by robk
Any lead on the nose? Sometimes it helps on power steering.

How is the ackermann? Looking from above, are the tie rods straight? Angled back?

Mike H points out you're pretty heavy on the tubes. If the track is like a 1/8 gas car track, that's ok. If it's normal 1/10 size, your car is probably not rotating enough.
No lead on the nose, and battery all the way back - another easy test. Ackerman - tie rods are swept back to the steering knuckles - forward in the middle, back at the wheels. Steering arm has 5 step adjustment - it's probably at 1 step away from full forward - mild response per the manual.

Originally Posted by hanulec
also - what sort of surface is this belewis01?
Parking lot / board track at Nor-Cal hobbies. Good traction, sprayed with syrup, fast F1 times were about 17.8 seconds (I was high 18s in qual, 19.2 in the main ), 17.5 TC fast guys in the high 14s.
Wind picked in the afternoon and most peoples times were slower in the mains.
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Old 04-20-2021, 04:46 PM
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Notice where my caster pill is in the picture set yours up the same usually anything above 8 will give you good mid to exit use a medium too hard side pod spring and notice the links that go from the middle of the chassis to the pod angle those in if you have the flexible upper Deck use it if not loosen all four screws on your diff on the loose side but don't let the Spurs slip run your side tubes loose probably 7K also put two to three k on the front kingpins to dampen them make sure you get your endpoints on the steering set correctly too much through can actually overheat the tires and cause the car to push really bad dial your steering down to about 70 and then add it as you need it I'm currently at 82 I run on a outdoor low to medium grip asphalt track using the gravity RC premount tires also play with the Ackerman adjustment plate for the steering mine is pushed back all the way towards the bearings and use the rear holes in the front of that plate look at my picture of my car carefully it runs incredibly well constantly battles for top spot at our track
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Old 04-20-2021, 04:52 PM
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Another important tuning option that is often overlooked is the position of the rear shockIf the shock is flatter if there are less shims in the rear the shock is closer to the battery and the ground the shock actually does more work less weight is transfer to the rear the car has a little less rear traction it'll give you more on power steering. Coming out of the corner . The larger the angle meaning rear higher front lower more weight is actually transferred to the rear you'll have less on power steering and better rear traction .fix the damping play with the shock position and move the front of the side links to the inner position you want them angled in the front that will allow the car to rotate a little bit better along with the damping changes I think you'll be happy you can always PM me as well I've got a lot of time with this roche evo2 and very pleased with it
One more thing you can also shorten the wheelbase in the rear but I would probably do that last
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