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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

Old 01-07-2021, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by viking44 View Post
Sorry for an old F104 question. I have a F104GP and I was wondering if thereís any benefit to using the original F104 T-plate/pod plate combination.

The GP has the same chassis and T-plate as the most recent F104 II, but the original F104 T-plate came in 2 pieces and I think 2 or 3 different stiffness for tuning. Iíve had an original F104 as well and broken the pod plate right where it bolts to the T-plate so I wonder if this was a known failure point.
The WGP/Pro 2 setup is the way to go all day long. At the end of the day the tbar is the weak link in just about every car that uses one, but itís a cheap easy fix. Strange thing is that Iíve had tbars last for months and Iíve have some where I broke 2 or 3 in a day
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Old 01-07-2021, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
The WGP/Pro 2 setup is the way to go all day long. At the end of the day the tbar is the weak link in just about every car that uses one, but itís a cheap easy fix. Strange thing is that Iíve had tbars last for months and Iíve have some where I broke 2 or 3 in a day
Ok good to know thank you! I was just hoping I could utilize the diffuser thatís built into the original F104 pod plate. But Iíll stick to the WGP one piece t-plate.

Not that Iím racing anywhere at the moment. Just saw it collecting dust so I decided to tinker with it.
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Old 01-07-2021, 04:25 PM
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Pretty
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Old 01-07-2021, 08:16 PM
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I had a lot of fun racing F1 in Oshkosh last weekend. Thanks to Dan I was able to pick up a Roche Evo and I've been working on getting it into shape. Had some ESC glitches during the race but traced that down to a transponder hooked into the wrong port. Going to try a longitudinal battery placement which was an interesting puzzle trying to fit everything in while not hitting the body or restricting the rear pod. So far the motor heatsink seems to be enough, I would like to skip the motor fan on this car if I can. I also pulled the fan from the esc so I hope that doesn't overheat either. Electronics are Motive MC4 25.5, Sanwa Super Vortex Pro Esc, and Sanwa low profile servo.




I also finished painting a new body. Wasn't quite sure on the green+blue but I think it turned out fine. Probably should have swapped the green for a red then it would match the chassis. At least I will be able to see it on the track. I am trying Pro-line paint this time, I used Wicked Colors on my last body and it's all flaking off. I did all the usual body prep so not sure what happened.



So far I've found the car drives a lot like my 1/28 GLR. Have to be very smooth and don't hit the rails.
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Old 01-07-2021, 10:45 PM
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There are 3 holes you can make in the body to aid motor cooling. Seems to work well, I don’t even have a heat sink on my reedy 21.5 and it’s not even hot. Now if I could drive worth a damn or get some shimzu tires...
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Old 01-09-2021, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteLX View Post
Now if I could drive worth a damn or get some shimzu tires...
you can get the shimizu compound tires fro Schumacher or Calandra, they are all the same.
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Old 01-16-2021, 10:01 AM
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I have a quick question. I have a F104W chassis with the standard F104 suspension off a sales board. Besides the front suspension from the F103 what makes it a wide car ?
Using F103 wheels? A review of manual doesn't show anything that indicates wider width.



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Old 01-16-2021, 12:14 PM
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Yes the combination of the F103 wheels in the rear and f103 suspension up front widens the car. If you use f104 wheels the front will still be wide but the rear will not.
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Old 01-16-2021, 07:40 PM
  #15504  
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Thanks. Appreciate it.
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Old 01-24-2021, 01:45 PM
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Had some free time due to the pandemic to update/refresh my F102 that had been sitting in a bin for a few years. Added a F104 motor mount, New HPI Graphite Chassis and Rear pod plate. Custom Blinky LED; TRF Works shock, Xray gear diff; Sanwa knockoff receiver and a Tekin FXR that was sitting on the work bench. Thanks to Exotek for the axle adapters. Next up will be a new F102-era body.












Last edited by RCBuddha; 01-24-2021 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 01-24-2021, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
Had some free time due to the pandemic to update/refresh my F102 that had been sitting in a bin for a few years. Added a new motor mount, TRF Works shock, Xray gear diff; Sanwa knockoff receiver and a Tekin FXR that was sitting on the work bench. Next up will be a new F102-era body.











Iím working on one as well

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Old 02-15-2021, 05:32 PM
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Anyone have a link or info for the class rules? Ride height, weight etc...
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Old 02-16-2021, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
Anyone have a link or info for the class rules? Ride height, weight etc...
You would have to check with your local track or club as not every venue runs the same rules.

However the most common found rules are in these ranges:
F1 / F2
Motors: 21.5T / 25.5
Weight: 1000g / 1050g (minimums)

Minimum Height is usual 3mm or 5mm (minimums)

Batterys are ususally 2S Lipo at 8.44v or in more advanced Livh at 8.7v
(Typically Shortys with 4000-5000mah for 5-10 min races mostly for asphalt)
(Sometimes Shortys with 6000-7000mah for 10-15min races or if on carpet tracks)

F1 Bodys only (No trimming below mark lines, Front arms okay)
F1 Rubber tires (used to be Foam tires)

Most clubs/leauges run solid rear axles (Some clubs allow fully indepent suspensions)
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Old 02-16-2021, 05:36 PM
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In Florida we run 25.5 motor,2 cell (8.40 v) , 1020 grams, Rubber tires ( CRC indoor and Gravity outdoors), Max wheel base front and rear 190mm, solid axles, And F1 body.
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Old 02-17-2021, 05:07 AM
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1020? not 1050? The "birds" is 1050.
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