terry.sc

Pit Shimizus owners retired last year. Schumacher bought their moulds and rubber formulas from them, so there will be some time before they are up to speed with production. In future expect them to be available through any Schumacher stockist, or direct from the factory.

WhiteLX

iTrader: (11)

I went ahead and ordered the Volante revolution white for the rear. TQ is local and can get them to me by the weekend. Pretty much the deciding factor for me right now. I have SXT 3.0 traction compound. Is there anything else that would work better for asphalt? Open to anything, even if it isn't R/C branded. I'm completely green on F1 gearing. I used 48p and I am currently running a 69T spur and 23T pinion with a 25.5. Local class runs 21.5, so not sure if I'll need to change it up for the motor switch, or if that is even the correct gearing to start with. Temps under 150 degrees OK?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Which track are you going to?

WhiteLX

iTrader: (11)

Cal and Revelation

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Gearing should be good to start.
Buggy grip.
Shimizu 75 if its cold, 72 if its warm (may need tire warmers).

I'll be at Cal Sunday if you want to try some Shimizu tires.

FXDXT916

I recently picked up a used x1’20. The ball diff is in very bad shape and needs a rebuild. So my question is would it be better at this point to just switch to a gear diff. My local track is outdoor asphalt, fairly large(big enough that 1/8th nitro cars run on it) And this is my first f1 car.

GT CRUSING

A gear diff does work for a large asphalt track. Just bear in mind you’ll need different oils ranging from 500 cst to 10,000 cst
In my parts kit, I keep 12 different oils to match the track grip. You’ll also have to carry a few of the xray spec gear diff spare spur gears just incase. It does cost more initially, but you will need to be tearing it apart more to change setup.

It’s also much cheaper for a ball diff to simply get new steel balls with a new spur gear to suit any need for asphalt. Its the much easier option and I would suggest it if you’re new to F1 rcs and on a budget.

You cant go wrong with ball diff or Gear diff. Though generally, a ball diff does require more maintenance than the gear diff

I would also advise to stay away from the composite shaft as they break easy and get the one with a steel shaft

DBM

I'm currently assembling the Arrowmax geardiff and have encountered some serious problems. In the lower case, there was a 12.96mm diameter recess for the side gear to fit into. However, the side gear was 13.06mm in diameter so it would not fit into the recess which would cause binding, but also prevented the top case from being bolted to the lower case. I had to machine down the side gear. The gears are made out of very hard material. This is normally a good thing, but not when you are damaging your tooling. I eventually got the side gear diameter down to 12.86mm so that it fit into the pocket. However, now the spider gears hit a raised portion on the bottom of the lower case.
A fellow club member also has an Arrowmax geardiff and his does not have the recess or raised portion in his lower case. I'm assuming that I must have gotten a defect.
Now to try to get a replacement/refund on this diff that I purchased from a vendor thousands of kilometers away. :P Alternatively I can clamp it to my manual milling machine and try to fix it myself but risk destroying it in the process.

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Arrowmax/Serpent dont necessarily have the best quality control and not uncommon to have defects here and there, but they are pretty good on making things right.

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

I had an issue lately where I couldn't get my car to track straight. I checked for tweak, changed out springs, weighed the corners, nothing was fixing jt.

Tonight I rotated the front tires, and the problem almost completely disappeared, fir a while. Seems the tires are almost "coning" like the old foam days.

Anyone else dealt with this, and have a solution other than rotating?

robk

iTrader: (22)

The inserts take more cornering force on one side over the other in most cases. A clockwise track will beat up the left side inserts more. A lot of sedan drivers keep the same tire on each corner for this reason. With f1 tires, most front inserts are the old open cell foam type that break down much quicker. It stands to reason your car was better because you had the equivalent of partially flat tires on one side of the car.

GT CRUSING

Sometimes rotating the tires isn't actually the problem. In some cases, a large front or rear wing can be rubbing on the tire. As a tire wears, it becomes thinner and stretches more easily; thus making it easier to touch a wing and cause a car to essentially turn slightly in straight.

The telltale sign is rub marks on tires and wings. Coning on a tire doesn’t usually veer a car for road courses. Usually coning is more noticeable on oval racing, where you would add camber in both positive and negative from your right to left tires to avoid it

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

so the solution would be to replace the foams, I'm assuming.

Setup wise, does this mean just to run more camber? I'm currently at -½°.

robk

iTrader: (22)

I would just rotate the tires, but once per race day. It can take a run for the inserts to break in to the new orientation.

I have had my car do this with older tires, usually switching sides does the trick.

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

Thank you Rob