2740Likes1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
04-17-2020, 06:39 PM
04-18-2020, 10:50 AM
Ok now we know what you have.
Luckily, that car is based on the F104WGP, which was probably the best of the 104 t bar cars (also, this particular t bar design is very robust). The WGP was a really good car. Here are some things that will probably help with your car:
#1 ***TIRES*** If your rear tires look like this, they are not very good:
Those are the stock 104 tires, which are not as good as the Tamiya "TCS" 1032 rear (same as Pit shimizu 572 or the CRC rear). There are a lot of other good rear tires like Volante etc. Rear tires will go a long way to making your car work properly.
*Check your diff setting. Too tight of a rear diff setting will make the car hard to drive and step out. For asphalt, you may want to allow it to have a very slight slip on launch.
*Center shock spring - start with a soft spring. Tamiya sells a couple sets with a good spring for your car, if you don't have something laying around (Tamiya 53333 or 42168). Soft is like off road buggy soft.
*Turn the battery sideways. Most guys use a short battery in F1, and it will fit under a modern body sideways. This is super easy with an LCG type thinner pack, just find the shortest pan head type 3mm screws you can and use nuts to attach the front of the t bar to the chassis. For a full height shorty pack, you need to use thin plain nuts and locktite to attach the screws. You will probably need to grind the excess of the screws protruding past the top of the nuts. The pack can be taped in with 2 sided tape. An Lcg pack might need some foam on the bottom to help it clear the nuts. Check out the photos of my car...
*T bar adjustment - You usually want to run the T bar fairly loose. I would start with the screw just barely seated in the countersink on the T bar. You can also change the o ring between the T bar and the pivot mount. If you have a harder oring, like the black Tamiya ones, you can try a softer orange oring like most shocks come with.
*Rear pivot post screws - if you look at the above pictures, you can see I have an o ring and a nyloc nut on the rearmost screws on the chassis. For lower traction tracks, you can do something like this to let the rear of the chassis flex a little.
Also remember that any brand of car will probably suck on a completely unprepared dusty surface. A swept and preferably traction additive sprayed surface will show you how good (or bad) your car actually is. This time of the year in northern climates is not prime time for outdoor rc racing.
Luckily, that car is based on the F104WGP, which was probably the best of the 104 t bar cars (also, this particular t bar design is very robust). The WGP was a really good car. Here are some things that will probably help with your car:
#1 ***TIRES*** If your rear tires look like this, they are not very good:
Those are the stock 104 tires, which are not as good as the Tamiya "TCS" 1032 rear (same as Pit shimizu 572 or the CRC rear). There are a lot of other good rear tires like Volante etc. Rear tires will go a long way to making your car work properly.
*Check your diff setting. Too tight of a rear diff setting will make the car hard to drive and step out. For asphalt, you may want to allow it to have a very slight slip on launch.
*Center shock spring - start with a soft spring. Tamiya sells a couple sets with a good spring for your car, if you don't have something laying around (Tamiya 53333 or 42168). Soft is like off road buggy soft.
*Turn the battery sideways. Most guys use a short battery in F1, and it will fit under a modern body sideways. This is super easy with an LCG type thinner pack, just find the shortest pan head type 3mm screws you can and use nuts to attach the front of the t bar to the chassis. For a full height shorty pack, you need to use thin plain nuts and locktite to attach the screws. You will probably need to grind the excess of the screws protruding past the top of the nuts. The pack can be taped in with 2 sided tape. An Lcg pack might need some foam on the bottom to help it clear the nuts. Check out the photos of my car...
*T bar adjustment - You usually want to run the T bar fairly loose. I would start with the screw just barely seated in the countersink on the T bar. You can also change the o ring between the T bar and the pivot mount. If you have a harder oring, like the black Tamiya ones, you can try a softer orange oring like most shocks come with.
*Rear pivot post screws - if you look at the above pictures, you can see I have an o ring and a nyloc nut on the rearmost screws on the chassis. For lower traction tracks, you can do something like this to let the rear of the chassis flex a little.
Also remember that any brand of car will probably suck on a completely unprepared dusty surface. A swept and preferably traction additive sprayed surface will show you how good (or bad) your car actually is. This time of the year in northern climates is not prime time for outdoor rc racing.
04-18-2020, 10:54 AM
Ok now we know what you have.
Luckily, that car is based on the F104WGP, which was probably the best of the 104 t bar cars (also, this particular t bar design is very robust). The WGP was a really good car. Here are some things that will probably help with your car:
#1 ***TIRES*** If your rear tires look like this, they are not very good:
Those are the stock 104 tires, which are not as good as the Tamiya "TCS" 1032 rear (same as Pit shimizu 572 or the CRC rear). There are a lot of other good rear tires like Volante etc. Rear tires will go a long way to making your car work properly.
*Check your diff setting. Too tight of a rear diff setting will make the car hard to drive and step out. For asphalt, you may want to allow it to have a very slight slip on launch.
*Center shock spring - start with a soft spring. Tamiya sells a couple sets with a good spring for your car, if you don't have something laying around (Tamiya 53333 or 42168). Soft is like off road buggy soft.
*Turn the battery sideways. Most guys use a short battery in F1, and it will fit under a modern body sideways. This is super easy with an LCG type thinner pack, just find the shortest pan head type 3mm screws you can and use nuts to attach the front of the t bar to the chassis. For a full height shorty pack, you need to use thin plain nuts and locktite to attach the screws. You will probably need to grind the excess of the screws protruding past the top of the nuts. The pack can be taped in with 2 sided tape. An Lcg pack might need some foam on the bottom to help it clear the nuts. Check out the photos of my car...
*T bar adjustment - You usually want to run the T bar fairly loose. I would start with the screw just barely seated in the countersink on the T bar. You can also change the o ring between the T bar and the pivot mount. If you have a harder oring, like the black Tamiya ones, you can try a softer orange oring like most shocks come with.
*Rear pivot post screws - if you look at the above pictures, you can see I have an o ring and a nyloc nut on the rearmost screws on the chassis. For lower traction tracks, you can do something like this to let the rear of the chassis flex a little.
Luckily, that car is based on the F104WGP, which was probably the best of the 104 t bar cars (also, this particular t bar design is very robust). The WGP was a really good car. Here are some things that will probably help with your car:
#1 ***TIRES*** If your rear tires look like this, they are not very good:
Those are the stock 104 tires, which are not as good as the Tamiya "TCS" 1032 rear (same as Pit shimizu 572 or the CRC rear). There are a lot of other good rear tires like Volante etc. Rear tires will go a long way to making your car work properly.
*Check your diff setting. Too tight of a rear diff setting will make the car hard to drive and step out. For asphalt, you may want to allow it to have a very slight slip on launch.
*Center shock spring - start with a soft spring. Tamiya sells a couple sets with a good spring for your car, if you don't have something laying around (Tamiya 53333 or 42168). Soft is like off road buggy soft.
*Turn the battery sideways. Most guys use a short battery in F1, and it will fit under a modern body sideways. This is super easy with an LCG type thinner pack, just find the shortest pan head type 3mm screws you can and use nuts to attach the front of the t bar to the chassis. For a full height shorty pack, you need to use thin plain nuts and locktite to attach the screws. You will probably need to grind the excess of the screws protruding past the top of the nuts. The pack can be taped in with 2 sided tape. An Lcg pack might need some foam on the bottom to help it clear the nuts. Check out the photos of my car...
*T bar adjustment - You usually want to run the T bar fairly loose. I would start with the screw just barely seated in the countersink on the T bar. You can also change the o ring between the T bar and the pivot mount. If you have a harder oring, like the black Tamiya ones, you can try a softer orange oring like most shocks come with.
*Rear pivot post screws - if you look at the above pictures, you can see I have an o ring and a nyloc nut on the rearmost screws on the chassis. For lower traction tracks, you can do something like this to let the rear of the chassis flex a little.
04-19-2020, 09:27 PM
04-19-2020, 10:41 PM
Tech Apprentice
Hey guys I have been doing some research in this class of F1 Rc cars... anyone have some experience and or suggestions on which F1 car to go with ?? what is their experience with Racing UF1 or what the community is like?
seems like a great opportunity to start racing and in a relatively newer flat road class?
Which brands are winning right now TamiyaTRF 103? or the Associated?
Thanks
seems like a great opportunity to start racing and in a relatively newer flat road class?
Which brands are winning right now TamiyaTRF 103? or the Associated?
Thanks
04-19-2020, 11:37 PM
Hey guys I have been doing some research in this class of F1 Rc cars... anyone have some experience and or suggestions on which F1 car to go with ?? what is their experience with Racing UF1 or what the community is like?
seems like a great opportunity to start racing and in a relatively newer flat road class?
Which brands are winning right now TamiyaTRF 103? or the Associated?
Thanks
seems like a great opportunity to start racing and in a relatively newer flat road class?
Which brands are winning right now TamiyaTRF 103? or the Associated?
Thanks
As for cars, the top 2 chassis have to be the Xray X1 followed by Tamiya TRFs...there is also the FGX, but that is for very advanced peeps with a larger prototype budget.
But yea, pretty friendly atmosphere, a good variation of tracks on the schedule the last couple seasons
04-20-2020, 12:35 AM
Tech Apprentice
The UF1 community is pretty cool, the best part is that you get to race with only F1 cars, so practice is a breeze as you wont get run over or catch up to slower cars from other categories. The program is also shorter and more fun than a regular race day with many classes. So basically, you can focus on just one class, UF2 for beginners and UF1 for more Intermediates to Advanced racers.
As for cars, the top 2 chassis have to be the Xray X1 followed by Tamiya TRFs...there is also the FGX, but that is for very advanced peeps with a larger prototype budget.
But yea, pretty friendly atmosphere, a good variation of tracks on the schedule the last couple seasons
As for cars, the top 2 chassis have to be the Xray X1 followed by Tamiya TRFs...there is also the FGX, but that is for very advanced peeps with a larger prototype budget.
But yea, pretty friendly atmosphere, a good variation of tracks on the schedule the last couple seasons
im reading mixed reviews on this thread and getting a little confused... for instance some are saying Tamiya is not for advanced racing and that if I am interested in pushing the limits I should be looking at CRC- XRay, Roche..etc.....which isn't FGX?? any insight is helpful at this point
also is AE out of the f1 class?? not much talk about them and their site no longer allows you to access their f1 car?
04-20-2020, 01:19 AM
Tech Adept
FGX has independent suspension and from experience its easier to drive, not sure why its considered "advanced" level.
The TRF103 is competition level. The thread was talking about the stock F104 which isn't nearly as good. However, the F104X1, W GP, V2 models are competition level, and for the most part can be converted from a normal F104.
And if i recall, AE is quitting onroad cars.
The TRF103 is competition level. The thread was talking about the stock F104 which isn't nearly as good. However, the F104X1, W GP, V2 models are competition level, and for the most part can be converted from a normal F104.
And if i recall, AE is quitting onroad cars.
04-20-2020, 10:07 AM
AE does not make any on-road chassis- F1,TC or 1/12 or 1/10th. CRC, serpent, roche ,xray are better.!!!
04-20-2020, 11:53 AM
I think a more accurate statement is that Team Associated (AE) is not currently making any new on-road kits at this time. They still have very good parts support for many of their discontinued products such as the RC10F6 at the following link...
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/...s_accessories/
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/...s_accessories/
04-20-2020, 03:20 PM
Tech Addict
But any chassis that is discontinued, it's only a matter of time before parts are unavailable.
Roche, x-ray, CRC and Tamiya are all great! Just pick one you can get parts easily. If the local HS sells x-ray, get that if the sell CRC, etc, etc. They are all basically the same concept and all work very similar (except FGX, different altogether, hard to get parts too, hence the advanced budget to re engineer). Can't go wrong with any of them.
Roche, x-ray, CRC and Tamiya are all great! Just pick one you can get parts easily. If the local HS sells x-ray, get that if the sell CRC, etc, etc. They are all basically the same concept and all work very similar (except FGX, different altogether, hard to get parts too, hence the advanced budget to re engineer). Can't go wrong with any of them.
04-21-2020, 02:13 AM
Tech Rookie
Hey guys so I recently got a good deal on a used Xray X1 and am extremely new to F1. Looking through the different ways to build this I see settings for low traction vs high traction. I live in Southern California and I believe the tracks are all Asphalt. Is that considered low or high traction compared to Carpet? For example the the Shock Adapter... I see that I can set this to short or long. short being for high traction surface and long being for low traction surfaces....
Also what size batteries do you guys find is adequate , 4200 , 4600, etc? How long do competitions last, etc....
And one more question, I've been scouring the web and cant really find any F1 bodies with cool decal sheets. I actually like how Jan Ratheisky's body looks, but that's probably a custom job.
Also what size batteries do you guys find is adequate , 4200 , 4600, etc? How long do competitions last, etc....
And one more question, I've been scouring the web and cant really find any F1 bodies with cool decal sheets. I actually like how Jan Ratheisky's body looks, but that's probably a custom job.
04-21-2020, 07:24 AM
Tech Addict
Bodies are blanks. Try BPshadow RC lab for decals. Some older Tamiya F1 bodies can be had with decals.
04-21-2020, 09:23 AM
Hey guys so I recently got a good deal on a used Xray X1 and am extremely new to F1. Looking through the different ways to build this I see settings for low traction vs high traction. I live in Southern California and I believe the tracks are all Asphalt. Is that considered low or high traction compared to Carpet? For example the the Shock Adapter... I see that I can set this to short or long. short being for high traction surface and long being for low traction surfaces....
Also what size batteries do you guys find is adequate , 4200 , 4600, etc? How long do competitions last, etc....
And one more question, I've been scouring the web and cant really find any F1 bodies with cool decal sheets. I actually like how Jan Ratheisky's body looks, but that's probably a custom job.
Also what size batteries do you guys find is adequate , 4200 , 4600, etc? How long do competitions last, etc....
And one more question, I've been scouring the web and cant really find any F1 bodies with cool decal sheets. I actually like how Jan Ratheisky's body looks, but that's probably a custom job.
04-21-2020, 11:22 AM
Here are 2 clear Tamiya F1 bodies that include decals sets that you should be able to purchase directly from Tamiya USA or online. These bodies may need to be cut out differently to fit other chassis, but there is usually enough material to make them work.
Tamiya Item# 51397 - RC Body Set Ferrari F60 ($58 USD)
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/f1gt/...ferrari-f60-2/
Tamiya Item# 51430 - RC Body set Vodafone Mclaren Mercedes MP4-24 ($59 USD)
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/f1gt/...afone-mclaren/
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You can also usually find 1/10 F1 decal sets on eBay. While they may not fit perfectly on the most recent 1/10 bodies, they usually can be made to work quite well on the most recent bodies. Often times you are just looking for the sponsor decals to make a car look complete rather than a complete car wrap.
Another option is to have a decal set created for you. Personally I've used Carl Seils to create some USVTA and USGT decals for me in the past. Check out this thread on RCTECH for examples of his work. It also looks like he has an Xray F1 car. USVTA/Trans Am Decals
Also check out the painting thread as there might be someone there willing to paint the entire body for you. https://www.rctech.net/forum/paintin...hotography-59/
Tamiya Item# 51397 - RC Body Set Ferrari F60 ($58 USD)
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/f1gt/...ferrari-f60-2/
Tamiya Item# 51430 - RC Body set Vodafone Mclaren Mercedes MP4-24 ($59 USD)
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/f1gt/...afone-mclaren/
----------
You can also usually find 1/10 F1 decal sets on eBay. While they may not fit perfectly on the most recent 1/10 bodies, they usually can be made to work quite well on the most recent bodies. Often times you are just looking for the sponsor decals to make a car look complete rather than a complete car wrap.
Another option is to have a decal set created for you. Personally I've used Carl Seils to create some USVTA and USGT decals for me in the past. Check out this thread on RCTECH for examples of his work. It also looks like he has an Xray F1 car. USVTA/Trans Am Decals
Also check out the painting thread as there might be someone there willing to paint the entire body for you. https://www.rctech.net/forum/paintin...hotography-59/
