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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

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1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...

Old 02-21-2020, 06:48 AM
  #15046  
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Originally Posted by Dan
1) Hobbywing XR10 Pro Stock Spec
2) 25.5 is what most tracks run
3) 2S
4) Used to be Great Lakes RC but they are trying to find a new RC venue in IL. We have MARCCA in Lodi, WI. Light turnouts though. And usually a turnout for F1 at Hobbytown Oshkosh much further up north. We have some Chicago guys race with us from time to time.
5) SXT 3.0 is what most tracks use.. Odorless but probably still toxic.
So the TC and buggy guys are tuning up the timing on their 17.5s to 6 amps. Do you F1 guys mess with that sort of thing? If so, where are you looking to set a 25.5?
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Old 02-21-2020, 05:40 PM
  #15047  
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This is hard to answer. 6 A on what machine? What voltage? 4.8 on a motolyser? 8 v on a G force motor runner?

I did a lot of dyno work with an Eagle brushless dyno (flywheel like an old Fantom) and fed the info into RC Crew Chief software, which will plot the results to a graph and allow comparisons between motors.

Most of what I learned was that each motor really has to be tuned individually, like each actual motor, not the brand. There are often different timing settings that produce similar power - this was posted a long time ago by Jorge Tabush if I remember correctly. Most motors wind up between 40-50*, but sometimes you can find power in the lower 30*s. You have to put the motor on a dyno and look at it to see if this is feasible however.


Motiv RC

R1 Wurks brushless motors

R1 Wurks brushless motors

https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost.php?p=14968722&postcount=354


R1 Wurks brushless motors

The other thing is most people are overgeared. I am usually 3.0 -3.2 in general. You should be able to do your hot lap or just off at the end of the race if the car is right.
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Old 02-23-2020, 09:31 AM
  #15048  
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Originally Posted by HugoW
With my 3D printer and a gazillion hours and trial prints, I drove the first meters with my own gear dif today. I need to get it to the track soon, see if it survives. It is based on the F104 axle and uses its wheel carrier:















The spur has a bearing and the outer hub has two, so it is al running fairly smooth. The black parts is final, the grey ones still protos. I have most parts finished but I really wanted to take it for its first spin so I fitted the protoparts.

Hugo
Well, it's been a while but I have version 2 ready, and it is a lot better and stronger:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4115356
Please feel free to test and please report back when and where it breaks

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:55 PM
  #15049  
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--QUESTION ON TAIL LIGHT--
I recently stumbled across this tail light for f1. Has anyone fitted one of these?
LINK
There's a very short video someone put up on youtube of one working the way I want mine to. Looked like he found a way to make it stay on solid or flash depending if he was on or off throttle. Anyone have any info on how to do that? I know I would have to make a mix on my radio, and that seems pretty straight forward. Or does anyone know if the light in my link is capable of that without a separate light controller?

I have one of the (maybe an associated?) lights that flashes all the time when plugged to the receiver. (single led)
I don't think it's designed to do anything but flash. I've tried wiring it several different ways, and when I use just the neg wire and move the pos to the signal side of the receiver, it stays on without flashing. When I set brake mix on my radio for channel 4 I can get it to barely get brighter when I hit brakes. But that's not really what I'm looking for.

Any tips/tricks appreciated.
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Old 02-25-2020, 12:42 AM
  #15050  
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Originally Posted by tomcat125
--QUESTION ON TAIL LIGHT--
I recently stumbled across this tail light for f1. Has anyone fitted one of these?
LINK
There's a very short video someone put up on youtube of one working the way I want mine to. Looked like he found a way to make it stay on solid or flash depending if he was on or off throttle. Anyone have any info on how to do that? I know I would have to make a mix on my radio, and that seems pretty straight forward. Or does anyone know if the light in my link is capable of that without a separate light controller?

I have one of the (maybe an associated?) lights that flashes all the time when plugged to the receiver. (single led)
I don't think it's designed to do anything but flash. I've tried wiring it several different ways, and when I use just the neg wire and move the pos to the signal side of the receiver, it stays on without flashing. When I set brake mix on my radio for channel 4 I can get it to barely get brighter when I hit brakes. But that's not really what I'm looking for.

Any tips/tricks appreciated.
That's my design and I've recently prototyped a small control module that turns the light off when you're on the throttle. It "listens" to the throttle signal from the receiver to the ESC by using a y-cable and a microcontroller. Here's a short vid of someone who fitted it to a touring car:
" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/4KGB_oKRd_w

It's also intended to be part of a "combo" with two extra vertical lights in an attempt to mimic recent F1 changes. Here's an example:

It turns out the vertical lights are an easy fit for my TC, so I ran them in a recent meet :-)

The current version of the module looks like this, but there will be small tweak coming soon:



Let me know if want more info.
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Old 02-25-2020, 10:55 AM
  #15051  
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Originally Posted by PDR
That's my design and I've recently prototyped a small control module that turns the light off when you're on the throttle. It "listens" to the throttle signal from the receiver to the ESC by using a y-cable and a microcontroller. Here's a short vid of someone who fitted it to a touring car:
https://youtu.be/4KGB_oKRd_w

It's also intended to be part of a "combo" with two extra vertical lights in an attempt to mimic recent F1 changes. Here's an example:
https://youtu.be/uUQ0Dq8noL0

It turns out the vertical lights are an easy fit for my TC, so I ran them in a recent meet :-)
https://youtu.be/oUQCksG2H2E

The current version of the module looks like this, but there will be small tweak coming soon:



Let me know if want more info.
Yes, that's exactly what I am looking for. Do you have a link to where I can buy?
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Old 02-25-2020, 02:17 PM
  #15052  
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Originally Posted by tomcat125
Yes, that's exactly what I am looking for. Do you have a link to where I can buy?
I'm travelling overseas this week, so hopefully have something up by early next week. It'll be in my Tindie store.
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Old 02-25-2020, 02:31 PM
  #15053  
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Originally Posted by PDR
I'm travelling overseas this week, so hopefully have something up by early next week. It'll be in my Tindie store.
I can highly recommend the quality. I bought one of PDR's sensor wire testers many years ago and it's never missed a beat and been incredibly useful.
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Old 02-25-2020, 08:06 PM
  #15054  
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I like the moveable rear wing. I did that on my first 1/12th car .Ended up taking it off because I had too much brakes.I do still have just the wing laying around.
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Old 02-26-2020, 04:20 AM
  #15055  
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I have purchased a few F1 lights and modules from PDR and highly recommend quality and service!
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Last edited by rayrush; 02-26-2020 at 04:44 AM.
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Old 03-03-2020, 03:10 AM
  #15056  
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Well... we've again something old...

Gilles Villeneuve Ferrari T4....

one of the most epic driver ever...

For those who are curious... yes... the pictures were taken in the Monza's pitlane...







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Old 03-13-2020, 03:34 PM
  #15057  
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I have a new-to-me TRF103 that I am setting up for TCS on black carpet. I am using CRC pre-mounts and trying Simon Lauter's setup. In his setup, he has the rear width at 190mm. I have shimmed my rear to 190mm but the outer set-screw now extends beyond the end of the axle. Is this okay? I'm concerned that with only the inner set-screw, left wheel/axle will come loose.
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Old 03-13-2020, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Red141
I have a new-to-me TRF103 that I am setting up for TCS on black carpet. I am using CRC pre-mounts and trying Simon Lauter's setup. In his setup, he has the rear width at 190mm. I have shimmed my rear to 190mm but the outer set-screw now extends beyond the end of the axle. Is this okay? I'm concerned that with only the inner set-screw, left wheel/axle will come loose.
Should be fine as long as you keep that clamping screw nice and tight and you don't smash too many wood boards. Or you can see if you can make some wheel spacers to just space out your wheels on the hex.
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Old 03-13-2020, 04:37 PM
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Old 03-13-2020, 06:46 PM
  #15060  
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Originally Posted by MikeR
Way to go Mike!

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