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Old 10-17-2008, 09:07 AM   #16
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no bind everyting is smooth--i will loosen up that battery strap

the tc5r is about to go in the ocean if i cant figure this out-
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Old 10-17-2008, 11:12 AM   #17
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bump
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Old 10-17-2008, 11:18 AM   #18
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I mentioned this in the other thread but I thought I'd post again. Did you balance your car weight wise from Left to Right? If you didn't add weight to your LiPo the left side of your car will be much heavier with how the motor hangs off the chassis and the other electronics on that side. I have 5.5 ounces added to my SMC 5000 to get it balanced. This could potentially cause this pulling to the left. Sounds like you have checked all the critical things for binding etc. and this might be the cause.
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Old 10-17-2008, 11:21 AM   #19
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loosen all thetope deck bolts, take off the tires, sit the car on a flat plate and then re tighten all the top deck screws. Then check all of your bearings, check to make sure a rim isn't cracked or bent. also make sure your chassis isn't dragging or rubbing the ground, same for the body. also if all that doesn't work, replace your front spool with an actual spool or go back to a diff and see if that will cure it.
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Old 10-17-2008, 11:31 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poochy View Post
guys everything here checks out---im puzzled still-----i do not understand how the 4 rear screws on the top deck can cause the car to kick left on hard throttle---please elaborate
Not sure if you have setup blocks, but if you place them under the car, undo the four rear screws, and then re-tighten them, you may notice that one of the scews will cause the front of the car to lift on either end off of the blocks. Can also be done by removing the wheels and placing the car on a flat surface. Not 'balancing' the screws when you tighten them down, i.e., from side to side, can cause a very pronounced 'tweak' in the car and will make it pull to one side or the other under power. Should really loosen all of the screws on the top deck and re-tighten to check for tweak. HTH
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:05 PM   #21
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thanks guys--its not the weight bc i added a lot of weight on the right side and it still tweaks left--i also added alot of weight to left side and it still tweaked left


i even did uneven ride height - very pronounced unevenly -- left side higher = no change

right side higher = no change

always tweak left
battery strap being too tight was ruled out-loosen that up and still tweaks left

i will run it with the top desck screws loose-
replace spool with diffs
when i get home


thanks and keep em coming


btw AE has offerred that I return the car and they will fix it (good company)--i may go that route soon
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:27 PM   #22
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Before you send it in (and are without it for a long time) you might take it down to the LHS and have someone take a look. Sometimes I second set of eyes is helpful. I've had a few times I missed something but a fellow racer caught it quickly.

Good luck getting it fixed! It's a great car and been fun to drive and tune for me!
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:36 PM   #23
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the lhs doesnt know either-
ill def observe what happens when take the tires off and redo the rear top deck screws

if this is the case-then its got to be a defect-no way i should have to do this to get the car to run straight--ill def send it back if i am having this problem--loosening the screws is a patch work around to counter a defect-NOT GOOD
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:37 PM   #24
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Have you checked the wheel end? Maybe bearings? Grit and grime in the hub? Is your pan dragging? How about the dog bone or ujoint? Sounds to me like something is dragging in that end. Food for thought.
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:44 PM   #25
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no drag-the car is straight and smooth until i full throttle it-


bearings are smooth no indication of rubbing or friction
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Old 10-17-2008, 01:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poochy View Post
the lhs doesnt know either-
ill def observe what happens when take the tires off and redo the rear top deck screws

if this is the case-then its got to be a defect-no way i should have to do this to get the car to run straight--ill def send it back if i am having this problem--loosening the screws is a patch work around to counter a defect-NOT GOOD
Defect, if any, would be that that holes are milled to too tight a spec., a little more play in them would take the tweak out IMO. I've had my chassis lift over an 1/8 of an inch due to tweak/screw/hole alignment.
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Old 10-17-2008, 02:39 PM   #27
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You need to take the car apart, take all the wheels off, and all of the bearings out of the hubs front and rear bearings, take your universals out and check them for straightness, and good way to check the bearings is to drop them on a body reamer and spin the outside to check for gritt or a rough feeling. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO DO THIS WITHOUT TAKING EACH BEARING OUT OF THE CAR. You must take it apart to get down to the bearings. Also did you go back to a differential in the front, and remove the spool?
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Old 10-17-2008, 03:00 PM   #28
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thanks everybody for all the great helpful advice!

the answer to this problem was the upperdeck rear screws (special thanks to those that suggested this)-the 2 furthest towards the rear. i removed both of them and it appears we have a fix.

i will play with it somemore-possibly tighten the rear diff 1/24th to counter losing 2 screws. thanks again-awesome job everybody!
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Old 10-17-2008, 03:19 PM   #29
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btw-not a good thing to remove the 2 rearest uppedeck screw bc the spur will eventually grind against the upperdeck--like mine just did-but good thing i manage to save the spur before too much damage was done--i put the rearest screws back on--soft tight-a little looser than normal tightness and the car is working just fine--thanks again everybody-i can sleep now
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Old 10-17-2008, 07:05 PM   #30
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I'm sure you already know the front belt is very tight, that bows the chassis before you put the upper deck on so the screw holes don't line up.
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