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Old 11-26-2008, 08:22 AM   #496
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Of course there are also legions of fans, and many manufacturers, who think that all this cost control is stupid. Many feel that F1 needs to get back to it's roots of unlimited technical innovation.
I'm not arguing with that. Dude just said that nobody in "real" racing thinks about cost control and I was pointing out that he is wrong.
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Old 11-26-2008, 10:25 AM   #497
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I think he said it was about 122 grams.
We arent corporate sponsored teams.
Most of us have kids to fees and real cars to take care of . let alone a home and griceries to buy. We all dont live at home with mommy you know!
Rubber tires on carpet .. good fun and not too pricy to keep a car running. I love it! And im NOT afraid of hp .. just that id rather race and ghave to qualify for the "A" instead of just ending up in it 'cause theres not enough ppl to fill a few heats. Thats a big issue , theres just too many different types of cars to run and unless you can afford 2 or 3 classes . then theres time limitations like race martial race martial.. god forbid you would actually have to work on the car . Toy cars gentilemen.. NOT F1 TEAMS!
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:16 PM   #498
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The solution for a T-Bar car and 3.7 LiPO is to run the lipo on one side and the electronics on the other side unless the 3.7 LiPO weighs a lot more than the electronics. What's the weight on the SMC 3.7 LiPO?
According to Stormer's site the SMC 3.7v pack wieghs 122 grams.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=SMC4025S
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Old 11-27-2008, 07:21 AM   #499
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According to Stormer's site the SMC 3.7v pack wieghs 122 grams.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=SMC4025S
It's also 2 2000mAh cells, good news for those of us 'cavemen' still using t-bar cars right John....
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Old 11-27-2008, 09:44 AM   #500
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Well.. yes caveman adam. the fiberglass wears out (slowly but surely) altering the characteristics of the handeling of your car. Ok ,its a tuner thing too but lets face it I've seen 12th racers with bags of them new and used. There musta been $150 worth of them labled from thickness and the # of runs on them. Tbars are also not as tough in a collision , to getthem to work better on bumpy tracks, or if you just dont want to kill a lower pod plate you have to remove the center screw. so.. yes! I believe tbars are on their way out. Oh, and Billy Jean King is smoking you out!
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:08 AM   #501
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Well.. yes caveman adam. the fiberglass wears out (slowly but surely) altering the characteristics of the handeling of your car. Ok ,its a tuner thing too but lets face it I've seen 12th racers with bags of them new and used. There musta been $150 worth of them labled from thickness and the # of runs on them. Tbars are also not as tough in a collision , to getthem to work better on bumpy tracks, or if you just dont want to kill a lower pod plate you have to remove the center screw. so.. yes! I believe tbars are on their way out. Oh, and Billy Jean King is smoking you out!
You're assuming I'm using fiberglass t-bars though. I don't get to race very often which means I do I make sure the track barriers are securely fastened to their mounting points A fellow racer gave me 2 of those spring-steel plates to use. I bolt them together and go banging away at the boards with out a single broken or bent plate. I've had a few of the fast guys wheel my car and they have said it's pretty close to what their are handling like so I don't sweat the difference. Anyhow, I'm pretty sure that t-bars aren't going anywhere anytime soon but I could certainly be wrong. Of course, so could you
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:14 AM   #502
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LOL opinions are like .... everybody has one. And if that dont .. You know what they are full of.
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:42 AM   #503
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LOL!!! Agreed.
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Old 11-27-2008, 11:44 AM   #504
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Just thought I'd throw this in. At the recent BRCA 12th National many of the Associated drivers put the T bar conversion on their R5s because they said it felt better.
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Old 11-27-2008, 02:06 PM   #505
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That's a lot of great info on single cell, thanks to the people that spent the time to do this testing I might have give a single cell a try, since I have a T-bar car a saddle pack is a must. I saw the post about the single 4800mah trak power pack and that seems like a good option plus I could always use it in my off-road stuff if I didn't like it. Looking at the Trak power saddle pack it seems that for use in a 1/10 scale car the two packs would be wired in series so if I used the 3200mah saddle pack and wire the two cells in parallel that will give me 1S2P 6400mah......BB


Trak power 3200 saddle pack Dimensions
L= 71mm
W= 47mm
H= 22mm Weight= 102grams
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Old 11-27-2008, 02:10 PM   #506
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Not a bad price either.....BB

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVXT9&P=7

I noticed that tower lists the weight as 193 grams.....
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Old 11-27-2008, 11:40 PM   #507
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Why does a T-bar car need saddle packs? Since the LiPo is a fraction of the weight of the NiMh pack, what would be the problem to raise a 'stick' pack on posts so it bridged the T-bar?

Since to get grip you need roll, and since the LiPo is a light weight, low down, that gives less roll, wouldn't it seem logical to use a single-cell LiPo pack, raise it a bit to clear the T-bar, and get some roll into the car at the same time? Or have I missed the point?

If I were trying this (which I am not) I'd want to put CofG as close to where it is now, not put it so close to the roll centre that the car reduces its weight transfer, and thus grip... Just my 2p.
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Old 11-28-2008, 06:13 AM   #508
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Why does a T-bar car need saddle packs? Since the LiPo is a fraction of the weight of the NiMh pack, what would be the problem to raise a 'stick' pack on posts so it bridged the T-bar?

Since to get grip you need roll, and since the LiPo is a light weight, low down, that gives less roll, wouldn't it seem logical to use a single-cell LiPo pack, raise it a bit to clear the T-bar, and get some roll into the car at the same time? Or have I missed the point?

If I were trying this (which I am not) I'd want to put CofG as close to where it is now, not put it so close to the roll centre that the car reduces its weight transfer, and thus grip... Just my 2p.
Hhhmmmmm, you may have a point there. The only thing I can think of without having my car here in front of me is clearance with the shock. Other than that, I buy your logic and getting it secured would be fairly simple. Anyone with a t-bar car (L4? then I'll know if it works with mine! ) and this pack feel like checking?
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Old 11-28-2008, 12:56 PM   #509
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Why does a T-bar car need saddle packs? Since the LiPo is a fraction of the weight of the NiMh pack, what would be the problem to raise a 'stick' pack on posts so it bridged the T-bar?
I thought of that also but there isn't enough room.....BB
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Old 11-28-2008, 01:37 PM   #510
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You're positive it won't fit in there? Would it clear if the front shock mount was higher?
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