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Old 10-11-2003, 07:33 AM   #16
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All you need is a fan. I mean when you run your batteries, I doubt they get REALLY REALLY hot. So when you are driving your car with another battery, the same pack that just died out is cooling down. So wut I like to do it get a fan or a battery cooling station from Trinity and when you are not using the battery put the battery on the fan. You can also do the same if you are charging or discharging....just make sure it cools down before you charge it.
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by lilshortyc3
I mean when you run your batteries, I doubt they get REALLY REALLY hot.
Not true... after a 5 minute race where i'm driving hard the entire time, my batteries will be so hot afterwards that you can't even touch them for more than half a second without burning yourself .

I've been told time and time again by everyone I know (including a factory team driver that owns a battery company) that you should never cool your batteries by putting them on a fan because it will screw up the chemical reaction and whatnot, the best way to cool batteries is to just let them sit for an hour at room temperature on the side of your work bench. All of the drivers you see with fans in their cars are using them to cool their motors, not their batteries.

Every little bit helps, so i'll definitely be picking up some of these battery bars .
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Old 10-11-2003, 11:32 AM   #18
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I've been told time and time again by everyone I know (including a factory team driver that owns a battery company) that you should never cool your batteries by putting them on a fan because it will screw up the chemical reaction and whatnot, the best way to cool batteries is to just let them sit for an hour at room temperature on the side of your work bench.

Got Proof???
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Old 10-11-2003, 12:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by lilshortyc3
I've been told time and time again by everyone I know (including a factory team driver that owns a battery company) that you should never cool your batteries by putting them on a fan because it will screw up the chemical reaction and whatnot, the best way to cool batteries is to just let them sit for an hour at room temperature on the side of your work bench.

Got Proof???
There's proof about not using a fan while charging, check out www.pro-trak.co.uk in interesting graphs section.
It's highly likely the same is for discharging.
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Old 10-11-2003, 09:25 PM   #20
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it would totally make sense about no fan while charging, but i guess i can't understand why it's not also while discharging.
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Old 10-12-2003, 12:24 AM   #21
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i guess it is ok to use a mild fan during discharge for the whole time, but not using a powerful fan on a pack right off the car after a full run, the suddent change in temp. is the key concern
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Old 10-28-2003, 11:50 PM   #22
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I have spoke with Jeff Chaskin in person about the disbelif's that some of you might have on the issue of battery bar heat sink not working but what I found out while running them this weekend at our state race in edegewater fl. was that what he said was true well i dont have a temp gun but I did notice a big difference in the temp. of cells while chargeing they were alot cooler than my other cells with same numbers and a whole hell of a lot cooler after a heat or a main than my other cells would just coming off the track my cells can be almost as hot as a motor and the fusion power cells were not that hot at all and had punch throughout the whole race and did not fade at all cant wait to run these cells at my local club just mt two cents
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Old 10-29-2003, 06:59 AM   #23
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that's a big sentence! thats encouraging info tho...
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Old 10-29-2003, 07:06 AM   #24
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Default Re: Let me explain, I guess our ad needs work!

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Heat at the center (core) of the cell must conduct all the way through the cell to the outside case. Our heat-sink bar allows the interior of the cell to radiate core heat directly to the outside air.
So how does the heatsink battery bar change how heat is radiated from the center? It cant, all it can do is get rid of the heat transfered from the ends of the cell to the battery bar more efficently.
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Old 10-29-2003, 09:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by literw2
I have spoke with Jeff Chaskin in person about the disbelif's that some of you might have on the issue of battery bar heat sink not working but what I found out while running them this weekend at our state race in edegewater fl. was that what he said was true well i dont have a temp gun but I did notice a big difference in the temp. of cells while chargeing they were alot cooler than my other cells with same numbers and a whole hell of a lot cooler after a heat or a main than my other cells would just coming off the track my cells can be almost as hot as a motor and the fusion power cells were not that hot at all and had punch throughout the whole race and did not fade at all cant wait to run these cells at my local club just mt two cents
So basicly the result would be like using a Fan while charging, and this is NOT a good thing. Your packs will be flat if you cool the pack while charging (Experience).
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Old 10-29-2003, 10:02 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by TC3Racer67
that's a big sentence! .....
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Old 10-29-2003, 10:06 AM   #27
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Default Re: Let me explain, I guess our ad needs work!

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Originally posted by jeffchaskin

Cooler cells mean lower internal resistance. Lower internal resistance translates to higher voltage (Ohm's Law E=IR). So.... if we keep the core temperature lower we produce higher voltages longer into the run. This translates into 'punchier' packs. I have racers that swear these packs maintain off-the-line punch much farther into a run, and never really flatten out.
Thats funny... the crew at fukuyama racing say (and from what I have seen myself) is that gp3300s perform much better warm/hot then when they are cool... idealy around 150 degrees. The point is, the difference those tiny fins will make is insignifigant, and the difference might be a change in the wrong direction.
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Old 10-29-2003, 10:25 AM   #28
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I'm curious about what happens when the car gets T-Boned. I've seen battery bars, usually the ones we bend 90 degrees (use for the plus/minus wires) get bent inward toward the battery and short against the battery. Sometimes this is followed by a blue-light-special and alot of expensive smoke...... Seems to me like having those fins exposed is asking for trouble.

I would think that those heat sink bars may provide some additional cooling, but not enough to make me pay above what we normally pay for a regular Deans bar. What does this pack or bars cost in the LHS?

I do think that the best thing this pack offers is the soldering technique, if it is, in fact, as quick and low heat as advertised.

Just my worthless opinion. LC
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Old 10-29-2003, 10:50 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by literw2
I have spoke with Jeff Chaskin in person about the disbelif's that some of you might have on the issue of battery bar heat sink not working but what I found out while running them this weekend at our state race in edegewater fl. was that what he said was true well i dont have a temp gun but I did notice a big difference in the temp. of cells while chargeing they were alot cooler than my other cells with same numbers and a whole hell of a lot cooler after a heat or a main than my other cells would just coming off the track my cells can be almost as hot as a motor and the fusion power cells were not that hot at all and had punch throughout the whole race and did not fade at all cant wait to run these cells at my local club just mt two cents

Punctuation!
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Old 10-29-2003, 10:59 AM   #30
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Jeff, you have any answers for this question ?

Quote:
Originally posted by TimPotter
For the average racer without the tech speak, how many degrees difference is there between a pack with the heatsinks and a pack without.

Thanks
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