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Old 10-09-2008, 12:15 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
looks like KO and Futaba are the top picks then eh?

alright chris, of those KOs on that list from the link you put which do you suggest since i know you're an avid (and fast) TC racer that knows the OC Circuit tracks as well...

Futaba needs no suggestion, looks like its 9551/9550/9452 or bust haha.

at which point do you guys say "thats too fast for a steering servo"? (.10 seems to be the happy medium as far as transit time it looks like)
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Thats good to hear, stitch
if you got room on your ride...i always recommend a full sized servo so you dont have to add weight when you do races that require a min. weight.
id recommend the: PDS-2367ICS

you can always get the older versions of these servos in the for sale threads.

if your lacking space on your chassis, then you need a short servo. this one is the best: PDS-2413ICS. compare the specs. should be equal IF not better than other short servos out there.

again... the one advantage u have KO HQ pretty close. so service (when needed/required) has a much faster turnaround time with cheaper shipping costs.
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Old 10-09-2008, 12:23 AM   #17
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if your lacking space on your chassis, then you need a short servo. this one is the best: PDS-2413ICS. compare the specs. should be equal IF not better than other short servos out there.
True, but the Futaba is about $25 cheaper. The KO beats it by .01 sec, but has 4 oz. less torque. But yeah, they're both good.

I'm just sayin'!
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Old 10-09-2008, 08:55 AM   #18
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Has anyone used the Futaba S9350 as a touring car servo? It's just as fast as the S9551 (.12sec) with slightly more torque (138.8oz). The main difference seems to be that it weighs a bit more (2.1I see most guys use it for 1/8th scale steering...
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:52 AM   #19
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I'm going through the same process and I think the Futaba S9551 will be the one for me -- .11 sec, 122 in-oz, 1.6 oz. I was almost tempted away by the Futaba BLS351 at .13 sec and a whopping 217 in-oz, but it weighs 2.2 oz. With the amount of weight I already have to add to the battery side to compensate for the lipo the last thing I need is a servo that heavy. It's $150 too, but there's a great deal on a used one in the for sale thread right now.

I'm running a good ol' $14 Futaba S3004 right now (.23 sec and 44 in-oz ) so anything will be a huge step up. However, I truly believe that the slow servo helped me be smooth as I worked my way through the novice class.
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Old 10-09-2008, 11:03 AM   #20
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KO 2413 or Futaba 9551
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Old 10-09-2008, 01:23 PM   #21
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I'm running a good ol' $14 Futaba S3004 right now (.23 sec and 44 in-oz ) so anything will be a huge step up. However, I truly believe that the slow servo helped me be smooth as I worked my way through the novice class.
My buddie and I still run S3003 servos in sportsman calss (mid level) and we are just now starting to out-grown them. I agree that the slowness of the servo helps you to be very smooth. But when I compare it to the guys in expert class, I can defintiely see the importance of a fast high-torque servo. Enhanced centering is certainly something I look forward too...

I just know it's gonna be like learing to drive all over again...

BTW: Aren't the KO ICS servos (like the 2413PDS) supposed to have programable speed? No worries about it being too fast then...
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Old 10-10-2008, 08:19 AM   #22
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For TC what you want is speed - anything below 0.1s / 60 deg is fast enough (.06 or .08 who cares). Don't get bad habits by driving $15 servos with .18 transit times forever - get the fastest money can buy, and learn to drive it.

On DTM torque isn't an issue on fast servos anyway as all the fast servos (<0.11s) are mid to top end and torquey anyway (basically at this level of >$60 price there is no tradeoff torque vs. speed sufficiency, they have both, at least for electric dtm).

Any of the 21XX to 25XX KO series is top-stuff - your best bet from a budget is to look for a nib servo from a 3-4 years back. Don't believe the marketing hype

I run a (2 yrs old) KO2365 in my cyclone and it's just perfect for me.

2113 is great budget too, needs 6 cells tho.

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Old 10-10-2008, 12:18 PM   #23
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yeah i run 6-cell/7.4 lipo.

Now for the hell of it, especially at the pricepoint, what do you guys say to this servo?

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/440702.asp

I had a cirrus in my stampede YEARS ago and it was a clear cased one and i can see all the gears inside. It was very tough and worked great before it got sold with the truck so from that experience, i like em. That one seems like a crazy price for .10sec/60deg @ 4.8v, .08sec/60deg @ 6v. The torque had me worried though but for onroad i guess it isnt too important...but my brother wants one for offroad (a B4) but i figure it should be alright considering its torque specs are nearly identical to a JR 590m. Opinions?
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Old 10-10-2008, 03:57 PM   #24
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Since it's not a "digital" servo, it won't have the precision centering capabilites of the more expensive units...
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Old 10-10-2008, 03:59 PM   #25
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BLS451... its only 100 and is the bomb!
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Old 10-10-2008, 04:05 PM   #26
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BLS451... its only 100 and is the bomb!
Yeah, but it's a brick! With lipo, I need more weight on the other side of the car...
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Old 10-10-2008, 05:44 PM   #27
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With a trakpower 4900 lipo im still underwieght in my touring with that servo.... Either way you gotta add wieght to the other side so whats the diff? Id rather have a awesome servo with a lil more wieght to it then have to add lead anyways!
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Old 11-17-2010, 04:40 PM   #28
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buying a futaba bls451, i might. good choice is? wanting to know, i is- good servo is this?durable?

and 10points to whoever can tell me how many copyrights i broke then
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Old 11-17-2010, 04:44 PM   #29
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lonestar... your icon...
anyone else seeing this? it looks like some sort of rc-car equilivent of dogy style...
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