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Old 08-24-2009, 10:04 AM   #121
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you dont think that will be too fast for the car off roading?
what parts should i for sure upgrade? the slipper set and the heat sink?
any other parts i should upgrade that might break if im going fast over hills and jumps with a fast motor like that?

also looking for a good gear setting so i dont strip the spur gear or over heat the motor/ESC?
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:09 AM   #122
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i didnt put on any hop-up parts on it and only used the gearing that was supplied with the kit, i just used the spur/pinion with more tooth count since i was intent on going brushless. get the rig rolling with your set-up and then order parts as you see fit.
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:12 AM   #123
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thank you i'll keep that in mind!
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:14 AM   #124
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the DF03 was my first experience doing a tamiya kit and im impressed, hate to let it go but needed to make room in my hobby collection since its hard to enjoy all of them at the same time and was looking to build another one/LOL.
keep us posted on your build,,,
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:17 AM   #125
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i will! hopefully this friday i'll be getting it!
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:19 AM   #126
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Good luck, the guy that bought my DF03 turned it into a drifter, just slapped on drift tires and didnt need to tighten the diffs, wow. i had it going from a rally car to a VTA to a dune bug.
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Old 08-24-2009, 11:24 AM   #127
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For good, cheap drift tires, look for Sushi drifts on Ebay. They're very popular and they have good quality stuff.

If you want to make it yourself, get 2" ABS piping from Home Depot, Lowes or any other home improvement store. Cut then into 1" long pieces and you can run them like that. If you want rounded edges (sushi rounds their edges) you have to make a router jig. This is why I'd rather order them from ebay

There are other drift tires like HPI T-Drifts that are good so I hear. a little more grip than ABS which can be good since ABS is rather slick.

FPS, a heat sink is always good to have. However don't feel like you gotta get the tamiya one. Tamiya heatsinks tend to be rather pricey (though you are pretty much guaranteed a fit). Other heatsinks by integy, 3 racing, topcad and other brands are out there, you just gotta look at how much space you have for the motor and get a heatsink that you think will fit.
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Old 08-24-2009, 01:02 PM   #128
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thanks i'll look around. and yeah i've noticed that Tamiya prices are rather high typically.

should i be upgrading any parts of my car to make it stronger to withstand the jumps and what not with the fast motor i'll be running?
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Old 08-24-2009, 07:53 PM   #129
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You're not gogint o jump very high before the belly will slap the ground on landing so I don't think you need any upgrades (not that Tamiya offers any). Besides, the kit plastic is more forgiving than stiffer materials like graphite.

To protect the drivetrain, see above (oneway/slipper).
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Old 08-25-2009, 02:47 PM   #130
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just ordered mine yesterday. have been wanting to get a rally car for some time now. definately looking forward to getting it. Ive been watching way too many R/C rally videos.
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:38 PM   #131
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Well I got mine together... Overall I like the kit, but ran into the lipo battery issue. Not sure I want to grind away at the chassis... Also no servo saver horn for a Hitec servo...

My last gripe is how stiff the suspension is. Has anyone tried any alternative methods to make this thing a little more soft? I haven't done much research but are the Dark Impact shock towers higher? Maybe using those towers with longer shocks? Using the Slash shocks to utilize the progressive springs maybe?

-melon
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:45 PM   #132
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what weight shock oil you used ? the stock springs are soft so i put my stock xray stiff springs when i used the chassis for VTA running.
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:49 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrymelon View Post
Well I got mine together... Overall I like the kit, but ran into the lipo battery issue. Not sure I want to grind away at the chassis... Also no servo saver horn for a Hitec servo...

My last gripe is how stiff the suspension is. Has anyone tried any alternative methods to make this thing a little more soft? I haven't done much research but are the Dark Impact shock towers higher? Maybe using those towers with longer shocks? Using the Slash shocks to utilize the progressive springs maybe?

-melon
You can use Lipos in the DF03 cars. Just need to be careful with your choice of battery. I use Orion 3800mAh and ACE power 4300 "stick pack" style lipo. It is a tight squeeze with the Orions, but it works fine. My suggestion is you get some Corally bullets and solder the speedo wires flat, at 90 degrees to them. The ACE battery is a lot easier. So you see, you don't need to butcher the chassis.

The suspension is actually quite soft. Make sure you put it together properly and there's no issue with it.

DF03 buggies have much taller shock towers and way longer shocks. There is no way these will fit under a sedan shell without major hacking of the body. Perhaps at the rear you could hack some of the tower and use a hatchback bodyshell and keep your fingers crossed it fits, but I am not sure what shell to recommend there (my Yokomo Ford Focus - MR4TC Rally chassis- fits over the rear Dark Impact tower just). As to the front, you're on your own.

About the Hitec servo, check again with other people using it (how many splines does it have?), I am pretty sure one of those in the kit will fit. If not, get a Kimborough saver, they're way better than any Tamiya crap.
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:17 PM   #134
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Well the only problem is I already had the lipo batteries well before the purchase of the kit. I'll look into your idea about the 90 degree bullets. Thanks!

As for the suspension... Before I ever put the shocks on the suspension felt like it was binding because of the dogbones pressing on the white foam inserts into the outdrives. I used the stock springs with the stock 30 weight shock oil. Basically I can't foresee the suspension moving much unless this thing was jumping some serious terrain.

-melon
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:23 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrymelon View Post
Well the only problem is I already had the lipo batteries well before the purchase of the kit. I'll look into your idea about the 90 degree bullets. Thanks!

As for the suspension... Before I ever put the shocks on the suspension felt like it was binding because of the dogbones pressing on the white foam inserts into the outdrives. I used the stock springs with the stock 30 weight shock oil. Basically I can't foresee the suspension moving much unless this thing was jumping some serious terrain.

-melon
You might need to adjust the foam pads in the outdrives and even distribute the total thickness between outdrives and axles to avoid the dogbones popping out. Check at all suspension travel and at all wheel turning angles to make sure there's no danger.
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