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Old 12-13-2010, 03:12 PM   #226
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Cool! Nice body! Very nice.

Does it have TRF Shocks? That's what it looks like to me.
What springs do you use? Soft?
Oil shocks?

You have any videos rallying?

By the way, do the rally tires wear out fast? Just wondering.


They are threaded aluminum oil shocks with hard springs on the front and soft in the rear.I don't have any videos rallying.I may try to shoot some vid this friday.The softer the tire , the faster they will wear out
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:04 AM   #227
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Default My Rally Car

I got my rally car

Check it out!

http://s1186.photobucket.com/albums/z364/kms7852/RC/
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:39 PM   #228
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Very cool pics.Your drive shaft is toast.
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Old 12-15-2010, 12:22 AM   #229
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Default Yup I made it that way

Thanks!

I made the drive shaft thin on that part so I can connect bullet connectors.

A lot of work...

Hey Do you experience any slop on steering?
Everytime I turn left, it doesn't come back to neutral but slanted to left a little.

Then when I turn right, it stays a little slanted on the right and it doesn't come to neutral. I think My servo saver might have worn off or something but I am not sure if everybody is experiencing this.

When I move the wheels a little bit, it wiggles but the servo doesn't move. so I feel like the servo saver part is a little loose....

Any idea how to fix this?

Thank you!
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:47 PM   #230
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either get a better servo saver or as someone told me many years ago...take the inner C spring and swap it for the outer C spring inside the servo saver itself. since its tighter, it'll put more pressure on the other springs and hold better...I'd just get a kimbourough servo saver though. It always fixed any problems I had with Tamiya's.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:26 AM   #231
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Originally Posted by kms7852 View Post
Thanks!

I made the drive shaft thin on that part so I can connect bullet connectors.

A lot of work...

Hey Do you experience any slop on steering?
Everytime I turn left, it doesn't come back to neutral but slanted to left a little.

Then when I turn right, it stays a little slanted on the right and it doesn't come to neutral. I think My servo saver might have worn off or something but I am not sure if everybody is experiencing this.

When I move the wheels a little bit, it wiggles but the servo doesn't move. so I feel like the servo saver part is a little loose....

Any idea how to fix this?

Thank you!
I face this problem as well, its most likely due to some free play in the chassis, so the use of some shims will help reduce it. Analog servos will also not center back very well compare to digital servos, so u might want to go digital. jus my opinion hee
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:23 PM   #232
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Anyone have racing experience with this chassis?

Im thinking of getting back into the RC gig and was considering this chassis as a start. Im looking for something that I can run on the local off road track as well as in parking lots.

I realise its a lot to ask of a chassis but after racing for years and then taking the last 6 years off I want to get back in with an all around good base.

I was running a TA04 chassis and an F103GT, But im a huge rally fan and this chassis looks awesome.
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:29 PM   #233
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I face this problem as well, its most likely due to some free play in the chassis, so the use of some shims will help reduce it. Analog servos will also not center back very well compare to digital servos, so u might want to go digital. jus my opinion hee
How did you fix the problem?
Where do you put the shims?
The servo itself is no problem but the steering unit set is.
It's not the servo saver either because I don't use one.

The steering unit that is connected to the spindles are making problems.
There's free play as you describe it.

I have Hitec 5625MG Digital Servo and the problem is still there.

When I turn right, it doesn't comeback all the way to center, the neutral position.
Same for the left.

It is SOOO frustrating. I am planning to put a metal alloy steering unit set to see if there's any difference.

Let me know if you know how to fix this problem.

THanks
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Old 12-22-2010, 05:02 AM   #234
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nice ride
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Old 12-23-2010, 10:35 PM   #235
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Default Finally fixed the steering

I finally fixed the steering issue I used to have by replacing the steering unit to a 3racing aluminum one.
Now there is almost no slop.

Now I am having problems with missing dogbones.

I have CVD in the front but I did not get chance to buy another for back.

Everytime I go roughy road, the turnbucklet part just falls out and I loose dogbone in the back

I used front spare ones to replace the missing dogbones for the rear but I need CVD For sure.

Any one know how to prevent the turnbucklet to come off?

Let me know.

By the way, I am selling Subaru Body this one.
Let me know if anyone's interested!



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Old 12-30-2010, 11:40 AM   #236
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Finally ran my rally car at the track last nite.I was very impressed at how nice the car ran.It was an indoor dirt track layed out for SCT racing.The car with the 540 cleared the double jumps and landed excellent.I was keeping up with stock short course trucks.My local track is planning a class on Sundays that will race rally cars both 4wd and mini cooper size.And they are going to run vintage buggy class.Should be alot of fun.I must say the DF03 is the best rally car Tamiya has built
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:21 PM   #237
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Default Rod Ends

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Originally Posted by Lethal Enforcer View Post
Finally ran my rally car at the track last nite.I was very impressed at how nice the car ran.It was an indoor dirt track layed out for SCT racing.The car with the 540 cleared the double jumps and landed excellent.I was keeping up with stock short course trucks.My local track is planning a class on Sundays that will race rally cars both 4wd and mini cooper size.And they are going to run vintage buggy class.Should be alot of fun.I must say the DF03 is the best rally car Tamiya has built
Nice. I never took mine to track but it seems to be good at bashing after I put the Traxxas Rod Ends on every single ballcup ends. Jumping used to be a problem for me but it is awesome when nothing is broken after randing haha.
I wish my local tracks would have rally class. The mini cooper probably is M05 Rally class I assume.

The Ball cup ends used to just fall out and I would loose dogbones.
Now I got CVD's on all four and got Traxxas Rod ends with screws tightend
I thought this would help you guys out there getting frustrated with loosing dogbones. Here's a detailed picture of what I am talking about.


Check out my new Subaru WRX 2008 Body. I put some lights into it.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/albums/...aru%20DF-03RA/

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Old 12-31-2010, 11:22 PM   #238
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Default Help with Gearing

My setup

Castle Sidewinder 4600KV running 2S lipos.

I have slipper clutch set installed.
40mm Fan above the motor
25mm attached to Sidewinder ESC.

My gearing set up is 48P 30T pinion with 69T Spur.
The gearing ratio comes out as

69:30 = 2.3
The internal gearing of the model is about 3.06
2.3 x 3.06 = 7.0

I thought 7.0 is perfect for some gravel and all terrain but the motor gets hot even with the fan. It should be warm...

What gearing should I try? Please help me out!
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:17 PM   #239
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My rally car body.





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Old 01-01-2011, 01:29 PM   #240
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Nice. I never took mine to track but it seems to be good at bashing after I put the Traxxas Rod Ends on every single ballcup ends. Jumping used to be a problem for me but it is awesome when nothing is broken after randing haha.
I wish my local tracks would have rally class. The mini cooper probably is M05 Rally class I assume.

The Ball cup ends used to just fall out and I would loose dogbones.
Now I got CVD's on all four and got Traxxas Rod ends with screws tightend
I thought this would help you guys out there getting frustrated with loosing dogbones. Here's a detailed picture of what I am talking about.


Check out my new Subaru WRX 2008 Body. I put some lights into it.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/albums/...aru%20DF-03RA/


That subaru looks sweet
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