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Old 08-27-2009, 10:44 AM   #136
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I think my next test is to remove the foam pads completely. First, to just see if the suspension will start to move smoothly. Secondly, to see if the front drive train will stop binding up. I found this while bench testing that if I give the car throttle, and then crank the wheel in either direction it binds and stops the axles from spinning.

I followed the directions very closely, so I'm not sure where I went wrong.

-melon

P.S. Is it just me, or is the drive train of this car extremely noisy?
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Old 08-27-2009, 02:55 PM   #137
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in all honesty the best way to fix the problem may just be going to a set of universals. i know a few of the hong kong stores sell them such as RCmart. but im unsure of the quality. i would think anything would be beter than the dogbones though.
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:41 PM   #138
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Is there any one online retailer that has the best selection of factory and aftermarket Tamiya parts?

-melon
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:05 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrymelon View Post
I think my next test is to remove the foam pads completely. First, to just see if the suspension will start to move smoothly. Secondly, to see if the front drive train will stop binding up. I found this while bench testing that if I give the car throttle, and then crank the wheel in either direction it binds and stops the axles from spinning.

I followed the directions very closely, so I'm not sure where I went wrong.

-melon

P.S. Is it just me, or is the drive train of this car extremely noisy?

Don't. Test on the bench without the pads if you want, make sure there's no real problem elsewhere, but then when everything is fine, put the pads back or you will lose the dogbones.

As I said, you need to find a best compromise by shifting some of the pads' thickness between the outdrive and the axle until you find the point of least binding but the dogbone is still securely in place. Slice the pads in two unequal lengths and try to swap them around until you get the best result.

Don't worry about a bit of binding. Give it a good bootful of a bashing outside and it will loosen up. The pads stop the spinning when there is little spinning force. In normal conditions under throttle, it won't make a significant difference.

About the gears being noisy, lube them up with as much lube as you want and they'll be a bit more silent, but not by much. This is where it counts if you sealed the gboxes. A properly sealed gbox will keep the grease in for longer so the driveline will be quieter and you can put more grease in to begin with so you won't have to open the gbox for a while.

Yes, universals do make a difference on the front, but are not absolutely necessary (Tamiya is sucking you in already). You need 39mm dogbones with DF03 (or similar) axles. I am not aware of a readily available part with the whole assembly. Look it up on ebay.
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:25 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrymelon View Post
Is there any one online retailer that has the best selection of factory and aftermarket Tamiya parts?

-melon
Rcmart.com
Rcstation.com
Rcmushroom.com

all out of hongkong all with most the same parts, but some have a few different ones.
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:15 AM   #141
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I have another rookie question. The manual doesn't specify how tight the diffs should be. I was basically going by feel. What have you found is the best way to determine correct diff tightness?

Thanks!
-melon
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:27 AM   #142
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Tthe DF-03ra does not have caster right?

And is that nasty angle on the drive shafts only at the short wheelbase version?



Nasty angle at the rear.

Last edited by MatsNorway; 09-02-2009 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:40 PM   #143
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re:rear axles, yeah, I think so.

Got the celica DF03RA sitting on my desk now, plan is to build over the weekend.

I wonder if the hobbywing 5.5T will fit

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Old 09-02-2009, 04:46 PM   #144
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Got unis and slipper ready to go in, any other parts I should look at beefing up from the get go?
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:21 PM   #145
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Slipper is a must have in this car for any motor under 17.5 / 27 turn. I have not had a single issue with mine I use ceramic grease in the gearbox and it is actually very quiet. ck your pinion spur mesh too.
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:28 PM   #146
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Cheers mate, what sort of ceramic grease?

Probably go with whatever's in the box to start with, cuz I won't have time to get anything else pre build, but I habitually strip/clean/rebuild my cars.
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Old 09-06-2009, 04:08 AM   #147
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Does the Mamba Max motor fit in this? I heard you have to use 5mm spacers, at least on the Dark Impact you had to.

Can anyone fill me in, and if you have to use spacers, is there a suggested source or will I have to make my own using multiple washers?
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Old 09-06-2009, 05:19 PM   #148
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All built and tested with a silver can, brilliant fun in the dirt.

Looks like it's gonna be a challenge to got a the hobbywing 5.5T in, but will know more when I have a fiddle tonight.
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:48 AM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatsNorway View Post
Tthe DF-03ra does not have caster right?

And is that nasty angle on the drive shafts only at the short wheelbase version?



Nasty angle at the rear.
I'm having dramas with the steering arm rubbing on the prop shaft, you can see how close it is in the quoted pic, mines closer.

Any ideas?
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:08 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdogboy View Post
I'm having dramas with the steering arm rubbing on the prop shaft, you can see how close it is in the quoted pic, mines closer.

Any ideas?
Yes, mine did that too. Check the plastic joint spins true and if it does, leave it alone and shave the steering arm gently to give some clearance. If the joint wobbles, swap with rear joint, check again and decide. Tamiya offers aluminium joint cups which should fix the issue, but I didn't bother and just shaved a tiny bit of the steering arm.
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