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Old 09-23-2003, 03:37 AM   #16
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Here is the setup that I use at the indoor track that I race at. With 300M
body

-I use foam tyres so not much use to you
-Racer kit + long motor heatsink+
Assoc. B3 ball cups, they are longer and
hold camber settings better after a
knock plus are cheap
-Front
gold springs
50wt oil, standard pistons #2
inner top shock mount hole, std bot.
standard camber link positions
roll bar
0.5deg toe in
1.5deg camber
-Rear
Silver springs
35wt oil, standard piston #2
inner top shock mount hole, std bot
standard camber link positions
roll bar
3deg toe in
1.5deg camber
long wheel base
-Battery in rear position
-4mm ride height

This setup is good enough for me to be points leader with 2 rounds to go.
a tip from my last nights racing, on the fast corners be very controlled and smooth with the steering to keep up corner speed use as little steering as possible
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Old 09-23-2003, 03:43 AM   #17
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All the extra blue bits in the FT kit don't actually increase the performance at all, possibly the only upgrage I would look at if I was running mod class is the aluminium cvds, the composite ones tend to twist with big horsepower. I am at the moment comprehensible beating 2 or 3 FT cars with my racer
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Old 09-23-2003, 04:06 AM   #18
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Fathead: As I was saying - the Racer is no slouch, despite the more humble price Besides the screws, the Blue bits don't make you go quicker. They just make the car LOOK like it could go quicker;-)

I regularly whipped guys with factory teams and team versions. However, I converted it to FT over a year or so, but I kept the carbon shaft. I didn't like the 'less steering to the left' nonsense (the C carrier has more material on it on the left side than on the right!?!) , supposedly designed into the car, so I got my dremmel out. I race indoors on really tight technical tracks - so give me loads of lock ANYDAY!! I don't reduce the throw on my Tx unless the track is laid out more open.

With the carbon parts, the car feels a little more reponsive - but over here in UK we hardly have to worry about high temps that's probably why the Racer spec can still do very well. The Aluminum screws helped save a bit of weight too. I didn't get on with the composite bones - the pins would bust out through the holes on the front shafts due to the constant lock to lock on our tight circuits. The blue ones are MUCH better, but cost loads. The composite shafts work better on the back and are lighter, so don't get rid of them.

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