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Old 09-17-2003, 12:51 AM   #16
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Originally posted by elnitro
JDM not hard selling the Cuda? Now that's a miracle!

It`s not for everyone..
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Old 09-17-2003, 04:37 AM   #17
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what did you think of thee xray any good give us some info on that
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Old 09-17-2003, 05:43 AM   #18
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FowlerJR68- Just like JDM_DOHC_SIR said about the Cuda it's not for everyone and if you base your desicions on what pro's quit sponsorships for then you'll never drive a car because it happens all the time.
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Old 09-17-2003, 11:08 AM   #19
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I have owned all 3 cars, so I can give a little feedback.

Yokomo SD (SSG) - The car goes together well, easy to work on, but when it came to the shocks, I couldn't figure out how to get the right ride height. I finally just went with Associated shock ends and spring retainers, but honestly the stock stuff should have worked out of the box. I have also seen/heard of others having this problem (with rubber tires) On the track, the car handles pretty well, has a lot of flex though, so that's a definate downside. The car is very fragile though, and as soon as I saw that it was up for sale, I dont like a car that breaks a part around every turn which is what it seemed to do. I have seen a lot of them breaking at the track, and the battery strap seems to be weak as well, because I see at least 1 SD each raceday losing it's battery.

Alex Racing R2 - Assembly is awesome, everything fits together perfectly, but the instructions suck, and a new builder may have problems (although they can be answered in the R2 threads) but if you are an experienced builder, the car should go together with no problem. This is the most durable car out of the 3, however, without the aluminum imput shaft holders, you will go through spur gears, so tack on an extra $80 for those when considering the cost of the cars. There is a TON of aftermarket for the car, which is good, because if you want to upgrade a certain part on the car, chances are, it's made by 3 or 4 different companies. On the track the car drives very well, not much flex with the stock parts (and even less if you decide to get an aftermarket 3mm chassis) The downside to the car is that to get it to work at it's best with a mod or brushless motor, the PAL or Xenon chassis needs to be installed (batteries moved 5mm forward) to get the best steering.

Tamiya Evo 3 Surikarn - Again, the assembly was awesome, the molded parts are great quality, and go together with no tweak, the instructions are the best of the 3 cars (and are in 4 different languages) The car is very durable on the track like the R2, but the ring gears are very thin, and flex on impacts, stripping the gears. I went with TC3 gears and got the fix to the problem, so it can be cured for under $20. Once again, with the brushless motor the car has a bit of understeer, although not as bad as the R2 (with the stock chassis) Seems to be the most predictible car out of the 3, very easy to drive. I only have 2 racedays on the Tamiya so far (and only 1 with the brushless) so I havent figured out the setup completely yet, but it seems to handle a lot like the R2.

Which to get out of the 3, right now I'd have to say the R2, but I havent driven the Tamiya enough to really make that asumption, it definately isnt far off of the R2, with only 1 raceday on the brushless, I'll propably be able to find some tricks to get it better than it already is on the track.
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Old 09-17-2003, 11:30 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
FowlerJr68 only mentioned those 3 cars, so I only gave what I found out about them. I have also owned the XXX-S, XXX-S G+, 2 TC3's, 414M2, YR4M2 Pro, StreetWeapon, TA03-R, MR4TC SP, Evo3, and 2 SD's. I have driven and tuned an XRay. And I currently have my friends Barracuda. It would be WAAAAAYYY too much to describe my opinions on each. But just to please you... here is my take on the XXX-S G+.

Car is very rigid. As in stiff. Drive train is nicely sealed and very very quite. Maintance is a snap. Access to diffs is simple. But loosening of the spur/belt tensioner is a must if you are to remove the diffs. Shocks are soo soo, or at least leave me feeling like I haven't filled them correctly. Although many people feel they are just fine and very simple. Droop adjustment is a total sham. It relies on very very flexible plactic that is apart of the bumpers. So your droop settings will never be correct. Most people either don't use droop or they use limiters inside the shock for droop adjustment. The car is very heavy in TC terms. Seems to be very brittle as well (arms, hubs, etc. Due to the stiff nature of the graphite.) Instructions are good. Went together good, although it was a terror to my wrists when putting it together! hehe. Servo saver leaves some people puzzled. Might not be too good. I didn't use a servo saver. Very tunable and includes high roll center mounts and low roll center mounts. Can't remember chassis cutting was needed to use the lower blocks. Also includes different kick up and anti squat mounts. GP3300 batteries didn't fit quite well in the slots. To my knowledge only 6 spur choices, 3 48 pitch and 3 64 pitch. Or you can buy a heavier spur adapter to choose your own spur. Plenty of room for electronics. Also includes different size pulley to overdrive/underdrive you car. Handling is good. Nice car and is better than the original. I liked it, but was turned off by the droop, suspension, and shocks.

well put.

hricvcr - i'm just saying that the quality isn't close 2 tamiya, yokomo. or xray. I have run so many cars it's hard 2 keep track. I haven't run the SD or cuda...thats why i was asking about the three and not the xxx-s


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Old 09-17-2003, 12:06 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
I have owned all 3 cars, so I can give a little feedback.

Yokomo SD (SSG) - The car goes together well, easy to work on, but when it came to the shocks, I couldn't figure out how to get the right ride height. I finally just went with Associated shock ends and spring retainers, but honestly the stock stuff should have worked out of the box. I have also seen/heard of others having this problem (with rubber tires) On the track, the car handles pretty well, has a lot of flex though, so that's a definate downside. The car is very fragile though, and as soon as I saw that it was up for sale, I dont like a car that breaks a part around every turn which is what it seemed to do. I have seen a lot of them breaking at the track, and the battery strap seems to be weak as well, because I see at least 1 SD each raceday losing it's battery.

Alex Racing R2 - Assembly is awesome, everything fits together perfectly, but the instructions suck, and a new builder may have problems (although they can be answered in the R2 threads) but if you are an experienced builder, the car should go together with no problem. This is the most durable car out of the 3, however, without the aluminum imput shaft holders, you will go through spur gears, so tack on an extra $80 for those when considering the cost of the cars. There is a TON of aftermarket for the car, which is good, because if you want to upgrade a certain part on the car, chances are, it's made by 3 or 4 different companies. On the track the car drives very well, not much flex with the stock parts (and even less if you decide to get an aftermarket 3mm chassis) The downside to the car is that to get it to work at it's best with a mod or brushless motor, the PAL or Xenon chassis needs to be installed (batteries moved 5mm forward) to get the best steering.

Tamiya Evo 3 Surikarn - Again, the assembly was awesome, the molded parts are great quality, and go together with no tweak, the instructions are the best of the 3 cars (and are in 4 different languages) The car is very durable on the track like the R2, but the ring gears are very thin, and flex on impacts, stripping the gears. I went with TC3 gears and got the fix to the problem, so it can be cured for under $20. Once again, with the brushless motor the car has a bit of understeer, although not as bad as the R2 (with the stock chassis) Seems to be the most predictible car out of the 3, very easy to drive. I only have 2 racedays on the Tamiya so far (and only 1 with the brushless) so I havent figured out the setup completely yet, but it seems to handle a lot like the R2.

Which to get out of the 3, right now I'd have to say the R2, but I havent driven the Tamiya enough to really make that asumption, it definately isnt far off of the R2, with only 1 raceday on the brushless, I'll propably be able to find some tricks to get it better than it already is on the track.
i agree on the battery issue... there are 4 SD's that run at our track, and i seem to remember a lot of battery tossage! i currently run the std. Evo3, but have one of Rons R2s on the way... cant wait to try it out...
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Old 09-17-2003, 12:49 PM   #22
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Which one of his R2's did you pick up? They are both awesome cars
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Old 09-17-2003, 01:38 PM   #23
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i cheaped out and got the Blue one. the "fleet" is just getting a bit too big! i need to try a selloff sale... i am looking forward to it, tho. ever since i was the writeups on this car, the build quality seems excellent!
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Old 09-17-2003, 02:36 PM   #24
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Our Yokomo drivers are tossing thier batteries out all of the time. I have the Yoke MR4TC Pro and love it but I like my Cuda better. It handles better on the asphalt than my Yoke and my old TC3, and I know my Cuda will be better on the carpet. I also run my Cuda stock out of the box except for rear hubs to take some toe out. I flat spotted the original spur on the first time out but replaced it and haven't had any trouble. I will get the pal drive system, and some Ti screws but I am very pleased with the car, out of the box. The only draw back is the instructions are in Japanese but people on this site helped me out. Haven't drove the Evo3, not the SD...I also had the xxx-s when it first came out and did not like it. I'm sure the G+ is a better car. Not very many people like it here. They like TC3s which I did not care for at all...I don't crash much but seems like when you do, pray you have some a arms. If I could buy a 2nd car, I'd buy another R2...but that is me and not you. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-17-2003, 02:48 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by tamiyadriver
i cheaped out and got the Blue one. the "fleet" is just getting a bit too big! i need to try a selloff sale... i am looking forward to it, tho. ever since i was the writeups on this car, the build quality seems excellent!
You'll like the blue one, at least it has all of the little tricks already done to it...
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Old 09-17-2003, 02:58 PM   #26
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i saw... i was kinda hoping for a front diff set, but ill prolly just have to order one myself. me and a oneway just havent seemed to get along... ill try it first, tho.
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Old 09-17-2003, 03:49 PM   #27
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I dont know if he even has 2 diffs, the car does come with a 1 way... That's actually the first thing I switch to if the car doesnt include it, 1 ways seem to be the only way for me.
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Old 09-17-2003, 04:07 PM   #28
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cool.. ill definitely try it first. in the past, i tried the 1way on my Evo, but i drove better with a diff. the only car i have good success with it is the MR4TC Worlds in mod... drives great!
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Old 09-17-2003, 06:01 PM   #29
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I haven't driven or owned an Evo 3 or R2, so I won't comment on them, however I currently own and race an SD.

My previous car was a TC3 and I like the SD much better overall. Though it is more fragile, it responds very well to setup changes. This may be a draw back to people who are frustrated with finding proper setup, but I change setup all the time, and so it suits me well. I believe the SD has a much better drivetrain than the TC3 and requires NO modification to the gearboxes to keep the gears from binding (very unlike the TC3). The style of the new Pro 4 gearboxes are similar to the TC3 (vertical, numerous screws) and so I would be cautious in purchasing the car. Maybe wait until you see it in person. Of course, this may not be a problem at all (who knows?).

Besides breaking axles and an arm, the only issue I've had with the car is wheel rub, which was my fault for setting up the arm the wrong way. Also, adapting the shocks for use with a rear shock tower up front and/or running AE springs takes a little work.

If you decide to purchase an SD, you may want to wait for the SD CGM which is the tub version (a TC3 on steroids ) it looks sweet!!! It should be coming by the end of this year.
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Old 09-17-2003, 08:57 PM   #30
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I currently run a Evo 3 Surikarn Edition, so I will not comment on the other cars. Overall, The Evo 3 is a great car. The suspension is super adjustable, very durable, and is plenty stiff. The chassis is stiff enough for most applications. The Drivetrain lacks a little bit, but if you work on it you can ALMOST solve the one way gear problem, and still have a decent free drivetrain. I'm sure I could do more to my drivetrain, but I just know what to do .

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